Shift Solenoid
 

Looks like the shift solenoid (2-3) has failed on one of my HHRs.

There should be 19-31 ohms resistance between the +12V line and the control line to the solenoid, but there is only about 3 ohms (which is probably the wiring resistance in the harness). This was checked at the connector to the TCM.

When I disconnect the harness at the transmission, the resistance at the TCM connector jumps to infinity. Which indicates that there is no short in the harness, the problem is inside the tranny.

The part is cheap ($20) but requires a lot of labor (around 7 hours) because the side cover won't come off without dropping the cradle and tranny. I am going to do it myself because it would cost too much to have it done and its not difficult, just time-consuming.

There is actually a video on youtube where a guy doesn't drop the cradle, but just pulls the cover off the trans enough to get at the solenoid. Don't know if I want to try this first.

My question is: Should I replace the 1-2 shift solenoid and the TCC solenoid while it is apart? anything else I should replace?

Thanks
Steve

Anyone have the part number for the TCC Solenoid?

Rock Auto is showing a bunch of different parts and I want to be sure I get the right one.

Thanks
Steve

You don't have to drop it all the way. Just tilting it should work. at least I think that's what the book says.

Oldblue, I have not found any videos showing dropping the transmission a bit and removing the cover. What search terms did you use? Any links to the videos?

Donbrew, you are correct that the service manual says to tilt the transmission until the cover comes off.

I like the transmission solenoid kits but I'm not sure who makes the parts. I would like to stick to name-brand (preferrably AC Delco) parts since so much labor is involved.

Steve

Another question:

Since the transmission has 200K miles on it, I probably should drop the pan and change the filter?

Steve

Makes it lighter.

Are you working with a P07xx code? should have one if a solenoid is bad.

Donbrew:

Yes, the MIL lit up as soon as it started revving high.

I don't remember the exact P07xx code number, but the HHR factory service manual said it was for "2-3 shift solenoid circuit high".

That's why I did the resistance test, which shows the problem is inside the transmission (probably the solenoid).

Steve

Oldblue, the solenoid kit that you linked to shows a pressure switch that looks a lot different than other sites show.

This ebay site seems to have a kit with the right switch:
Solenoid Kit

Buying the 5 parts separately at Rock Auto comes to about $118 (AC Delco parts except pressure switch which is Rostra), which is cheaper than the kit.

Its below zero (F) here so even with my barn heater it will be too cold to work on it now. Monday it starts to be above 40F so I will start then. I have to wait for the parts anyways.

Now that I have the lift and a pair of tall 2 ton jackstands (up to 7' high) it should be easier to tilt the transmission. The service manual says to remove the front cradle while keeping the engine/trans supported. I have an engine hoist so I can use that to hold everything up from above if needed.

Maybe I will take some pictures for a how-to since I don't see one anywhere.

Steve

Steve

Steve look at this. Also too, I'm envious you have a lift and garage. :twothumbs:

Thanks, Cat Man.

So it looks like he dropped the subframe down about 6" on only the transmission side, keeping the other side connected. He doesn't mention lowering the transmission down so maybe after moving the subframe down there is enough access to the cover.

He mentions that the kit should have all new rubber seal pieces. I am getting a new valve body cover gasket from Rock Auto, but I don't see the other gaskets he pointed to inside the cover. Rock Auto does sell a Mahle valve body cover that does seem to include the large ring-shaped gasket inside the cover, but it's double the price of the AC Delco gasket ($17 vs $34) and doesn't include any other smaller gasket in the cover. Any ideas? Maybe all I need to replace is the main gasket on the cover.

Steve

Steve
The case cover seal is reusable
Dropping that side of the subframe drops the trans. If you notice right at the being the trans mounts are not disconnected from the subframe. Just watch what's up top as you drop it, lines, hoses ect.
And yes change the trans filter too.
Yes take pictures too.
Richie

Cat Man:

Thanks for the video link, it helps a lot.

I am ordering the parts from Rock Auto now and will start as soon as the deep-freeze ends.

Steve

Any reason to buy the name brand Dexron VI fluid vs the store brand?

7 quarts of Valvoline is about $65.

With the 25% off coupon at advance auto, 7 quarts of CARQUEST fluid is about $43.

Steve

Why go cheap ? This isn't something you do often like changing the engine oil every 5-10k miles. $22 extra for a 1 time expense doesn't seem excessive to me.
(just curious. Do you use the cheap store brand when you change your engine oil ?)

Posting the two products by label would help.
If it meets or exceeds DextronsVI it is fine. Valvoline does. How about CarQuest ?

Here's the carquest Dexron VI:

Dexron VI is synthetic. It should not make any difference.

It would not be labelled "Dexron VI" if it did not meet or exceed the spec. Especially with the trade mark symbol.

So store brand is just as good as name brand. I guess it has all the same properties.

Well, I found out that the 25% off discount code doesn't work for fluids at Advance Auto.

So I found that Walmart had Dexron VI trans fluid in their house brand for even less.

Cat Man: Looking at the video you sent me closely again, the transmission IS disconnected from the subframe. The mount is disconnected at the center bolt through the mount. The subframe looks dropped at least 6 inches from its mount, so looks like both the subframe is dropped by at least 6 inches, but the transmission is dropped less because it's sitting about 3 inches above the subframe.

I wonder how much drop the exhaust flex joint can take before it breaks? It would be a real big pain to disconnect the flex pipe at the manifold.

Steve

If the flexpipe bothers you disconnect it at the exhaust pipe end 2 nuts.

Once everything connected to the suspension is undone and the 4 sub frame bolts the rights side suspension is holding things on that side. Your trans jack should hold it nicely. Might be smart to use some sort of engine support fixture on top.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...ae47f44f29.png

fastsuv
I know I'm repeating myself, but take pictures.
Thanks

I started working on the project yesterday afternoon/evening.

I followed the factory service manual instructions for the most part.

The fuse box has to be unscrewed and tilted out of the way (after disconnecting the negative battery terminal). This is done solely to disconnect the shift cable and remove the PNP switch (park-neutral safety switch) from above.

Here is a picture of the fuse box bungeed out of the way as far as possible:


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e9f9f8628c.jpg

Here is a shot of the PNP Switch with the shift cable attached under the fuse box:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...51c27acd77.jpg

The service manual has a bit of misdirection here. It tells you to disconnect the battery, unplug the ECM connectors, tilt the fuse box, and then go to the section on removing the PNP switch. That section says to put the car in neutral before removing the switch. Of course without power the shifter won't move. I know there is a manual override method, but I didn't want to spend time on that or reconnect all the wiring, so I removed it with the transmission in park. I will deal with this during reassembly. The reason they want it in neutral is that there is an alignment tool to align the PNP switch when reassembling it. The tool is a piece of plastic that fits over the shift shaft and fits into a groove on the PNP switch. It only fits in the groove if the transmission is in neutral. I can put the shift cable on temporarily and then shift it into neutral when I reassemble.

I will continue on the process on several posts. I don't know how much you can put on one post.

I removed the whole right side suspension to get as much working room as possible. It didn't take very long to remove. This is what the wheel well looks like with suspension removed:


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...beb27966c7.jpg

In the picture below, notice how the subframe blocks the lower transmission cover bolts:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...0cff0d22d2.jpg

I then unbolted the two bolts holding the driver side subframe. I also loosened the subframe bolts on the passenger side because I didn't want to put bending force on the subframe bolts on the passenger side when I pulled the subframe down on the driver side. I also disconnected the front and back transmission mounts, but NOT the one connected at the driver side wheel well. For the front mount, I just removed the bolt going through the center of the mount. For the rear mount, it was easier to remove the 3 bolts going through the bottom of the subframe. Very important, I also disconnected the steering shaft at the rack, its easy to forget this and damages the steering. Here is a picture of the subframe dropped until it cleared the transmission:


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...c24a21c168.jpg

The transmission is still being held by the remaining mount, but I put a tall adjustable jack stand (with a 3/4" thick piece of plywood to spread the load) under the trans pan just in case.

Now I unbolted the remaining transmission mount. I reached up from the wheel well and removed the bolts, which are mounted from above. It was easy to do by feel. I then lowered the transmission until it looked like the cover would clear the wheel well opening. I turned the adjustment on the tall jack stands and it lowered the transmission. Watch carefully for any interference from hoses or wires (I didn't have any). The exhaust flex joint didn't really bend, the whole front part of the exhaust system dropped with the engine. I also had to drop the subframe another inch or two because the lower transmission cover bolts were now starting to go behind the subframe again as the trans is dropped.Here is a picture with the transmission dropped:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...82aaa83558.jpg

I made a homemade catch pan by hanging a bin box that I had under the transmission cover so it would catch the fluid as it came out:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...a2847a02fd.jpg

Finally, I unbolted the 9 bolts and 2 studs that held the cover on. It came off easily.

Here is the transmission with the cover removed:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...8b3462b020.jpg

A closeup of the valve body area:


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...262dbdcd64.jpg

It looks like the 2-3 shift solenoid was indeed bad. The coil area had actually melted. Probably the coil shorted partially, just enough to draw a lot of current and overheat the solenoid until it eventually failed completely.

Here is a closeup. Note the lower (2-3) shift solenoid connector sagging downward from the melting:


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...340cc7a91f.jpg
I was on a roll and could have started reassembly, but the new parts aren't due until Tuesday from Rock Auto. I will post more when I start reassembly.

Steve

Why did you need to disconnect the trans mounts? I thought you could just drop the entire sub-frame. Is it those bottom bolts?

Yes, the bottom bolts are tucked behind the subframe. It might be possible to get them out with an open-end or box wrench, but I decided for a little more effort I would make it easier.

Steve

Fastsuv excellent pictures and description of what your doing.
This will help a lot of people who want to do it or people that need it done.
How long do you think it took you to get to the point of replacing the solenoids ?
Richie.

I would say it took about 4 hours to get to where I am at now (solenoids exposed and ready to replace).

Its actually pretty easy, just takes time. No special skills needed (like setting up a rear differential ring and pinion for example). Of course, I have a lift so that shaves some time off.

This HHR is from Florida, so no rusted fasteners that won't come out or break off.

I am replacing the 1-2 solenoid, 2-3 solenoid, TCC solenoid, pressure control solenoid, and pressure switch while I have it apart. That's basically all the electrical parts accessible witht he side cover off.

Steve

Steve
Again excellent job.
I have to say I do remember the first time I "set up" gears in a rear end. :happyfacerainbow:
Richie

Then you are a step ahead of me. I never tried to set up gears myself. I wonder if my mistake the first time would have been to set them up too loose and have clunking, or too tight and have them overheat?

Steve

When you finish please consider putting the steps back together in a how-to.

OK, I'll put together a how-to when I am finished.

I have a lot more pictures that I took as I went along, I just wanted to show the big steps here.

Steve

Looks like some bad weather in the Midwest has delayed my Rock Auto parts for a day until tomorrow.

Steve