Lone Ranger

Make sure front end alignment is set to factory specification. Mine was out by 2/10" on toe. Doubt it made a difference but at last now its set to factory specs.

GRUMPEE

The Kitty keeps the bird doo off my ride

sunbound

I have a scanguage, but i cant get it to match with the MPG on the DIC.

what "offset" do you use?

Clevelandhhrss

I use my inst-mpg and the boost gauge in conjunction. That been more than enough, I just wanted to suggest a way to get inst-mpg for those with out it. Check cleanmpg or hypermiler for help with those two products.

JoeR

OK, Snoopy, I'll bite!

I have avoided all the numerous threads (good or bad) about mileage, since I believe that "your mileage may vary" and that the driver, along with sensible maintenance are the biggest factors, let alone all the variances of stop frequency, etc.

Cleveland had a lot of good advice in his post.

The stock intake is VERY efficient. No drop in MAP all the way to redline. It is a true "cold air intake". I sincerely doubt that any of the aftemarket intakes would result in better mileage, let alone power. The old BS standby, the CGS is a HOT air intake, meaning less air density and, guess what? Less volumetric efficiency (less mileage and power). Y'all can believe what you want. Same goes for exhaust.

As far as ECM reprogramming is concerned.... First, the areas of any of the tables involved, the areas hit during any "cruise" condition and those of full power demand are totally different. They have absolutely no relation to each other! The good news is that a good tune can optimize both mileage and power. During any cruize conditions (closed loop), feedback from the O2 sensor will keep the AFR (air fuel ratio) at stoic, which is 14.7:1. I have spent time on a dyno optimizing spark timing at various load levels seen at typical cruise conditions and tried various spark advance settings to see how the MBT (Mean Best Torque) came in at a number of levels. Those results were input to the timing tables. Time consuming, but very effective. Let's just say that I consider most of the fuel mileage claims here sad.

But the biggest gain I've seen is playing with the "hyper-miling" basics. Primarily, the best gains are in town driving. Let's just say that driving like an old granny, pissin' other drivers off , etc., in inner city stop and go driving can result in 27 - 30 MPG. As for highway cruising, the hyper-miling just doesn't seem to work like it does in stop and go. But my last two trips resulted in mid-35's at average speeds of just over 70. I'm happy!

sunbound

i have an 06... no inst-mpg, just average.

Etherion

I have greatly improved my mileage via the following:

1. The final gear shift point minimum speed is 40 MPH.
2. Without risking a ticket, try to drive at 40 minimum.
3. As soon as you have enough acceleration or speed, remove your foot from the gas pedal and very smoothly reapply.
4. Watch carefully the RPMs and the gas mileage, I have a 2008 with real time.
5. You will notice that you can still achieve your target speed with much better mileage by getting the transmission to shift to the highest gear possible (based on your speed) sooner by using this method.
6. This is very noticeable when you hit 40 MPH, be gentle and watch the RPMs drop to about 1500 at 40. Hope this helps.

sababitz

Nitrogen works well in northern Canada for winter, your tires don't go soft as with air when it gets to -20 c / -4 f

SS fan

welcome to the site sababitz.

Old Lar

The easist modification is to use a light right foot on the gas pedal.