Back on the Road Again
01-24-2017, 09:26 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 02-01-2006
Location: lockport,ny
Posts: 1,377
Back on the Road Again
After two years, I finally have my 2006 1LT on the road again (I have another 2006 1LT that we have been driving).
At 167K miles, the fixed timing chain guide bolt (the one you access through the plug in the head) broke off. The loose chain actually cut through the upper chain guide plastic liner and metal bracket, causing a loud noise. before this happened, there were no strange noises so I didn't suspect anything.
I removed the cam cover and timing chain cover with the engine in the car, but after seeing the broken bolt, I realized that the engine had to come out for a proper repair. I put it aside for a year and a half while I was distracted with other things.
Last fall, I pulled the engine/transmission/suspension cradle out the bottom and worked on it in my shop.
I found out the bolt that broke is a problem on some of these engines. I think it was Old Blue that pointed me to a guy that made a fixit bolt to hold the guide using only the bolt access hole threads instead of having to remove the broken bolt from the head.
I replaced the timing chain, crank sprocket, oil spray fitting, and also one guide for the balance shaft chain which had been damaged by the loose timing chain.
While I had the engine out I replaced the water pump, thermostat, drive belt, radiator hoses, heater hoses, oxygen sensors, and cam actuator solenoids. These parts were pretty cheap at Rock Auto and I replaced them as a precaution. I also removed the oil pan and cleaned it out. There were some broken pieces of plastic from the timing chain guide in the oil pan.
Finally, since the car had 167K miles on it, I replaced the clutch (friction disc and pressure plate) and throwout bearing/slave cylinder. There was about 20K-30K miles left on the friction disc.
After installing the engine, I noticed that the fuel lines were very rusty where they were held by brackets, so I replace them with a fuel line kit from Rock Auto.
To pre-lube the engine before the first start, I pulled the fuel pump relay and ran the starter in short bursts to pump oil through the engine.
The engine started easily and ran well. I took it for a short test drive and it started to buck under steady throttle. Eventually it set a code for cylinder #4 misfire. I check the connections at the engine and discovered that the coil connector for #4 was plugged in but not full seated. After pushing it on until I heard the snap, everything ran well.
The next day, another check engine light. The EVAP vent solenoid decided to fail (coil was open). Another order to Rock Auto fixed that problem.
So the car has been running well for about 250 miles and I am happy to be driving a manual again.
Steve
At 167K miles, the fixed timing chain guide bolt (the one you access through the plug in the head) broke off. The loose chain actually cut through the upper chain guide plastic liner and metal bracket, causing a loud noise. before this happened, there were no strange noises so I didn't suspect anything.
I removed the cam cover and timing chain cover with the engine in the car, but after seeing the broken bolt, I realized that the engine had to come out for a proper repair. I put it aside for a year and a half while I was distracted with other things.
Last fall, I pulled the engine/transmission/suspension cradle out the bottom and worked on it in my shop.
I found out the bolt that broke is a problem on some of these engines. I think it was Old Blue that pointed me to a guy that made a fixit bolt to hold the guide using only the bolt access hole threads instead of having to remove the broken bolt from the head.
I replaced the timing chain, crank sprocket, oil spray fitting, and also one guide for the balance shaft chain which had been damaged by the loose timing chain.
While I had the engine out I replaced the water pump, thermostat, drive belt, radiator hoses, heater hoses, oxygen sensors, and cam actuator solenoids. These parts were pretty cheap at Rock Auto and I replaced them as a precaution. I also removed the oil pan and cleaned it out. There were some broken pieces of plastic from the timing chain guide in the oil pan.
Finally, since the car had 167K miles on it, I replaced the clutch (friction disc and pressure plate) and throwout bearing/slave cylinder. There was about 20K-30K miles left on the friction disc.
After installing the engine, I noticed that the fuel lines were very rusty where they were held by brackets, so I replace them with a fuel line kit from Rock Auto.
To pre-lube the engine before the first start, I pulled the fuel pump relay and ran the starter in short bursts to pump oil through the engine.
The engine started easily and ran well. I took it for a short test drive and it started to buck under steady throttle. Eventually it set a code for cylinder #4 misfire. I check the connections at the engine and discovered that the coil connector for #4 was plugged in but not full seated. After pushing it on until I heard the snap, everything ran well.
The next day, another check engine light. The EVAP vent solenoid decided to fail (coil was open). Another order to Rock Auto fixed that problem.
So the car has been running well for about 250 miles and I am happy to be driving a manual again.
Steve
01-24-2017, 10:37 AM
#4
Platinum Member
Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,088
Good example of " If you're going to fix, fix it right." Also, a good choice to do all those preventative maintenance parts replacements.I've always been an advocate to replace all the coolant hoses and thermostat after a major repair. Nothing worse than running one hot and destroying an engine after all that work.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
