Would one of these help? (Along with a LH stub drill bit?)

 

Hi everyone,

I wanted to update as to how I fixed the issue of the sheared off bolt that I was attempting to fix.



After having no success trying to extract the broken bolt I decided drill out the area and try and rebuild it.

I started by completely carving out the area where the bolt was located using a angle die grinder and cutting burrs

that allowed me precisely carve out the area without destroying the area where the hole was located.



Once I had the hole adequately carved out I used a rod connector sized m6 with 1.0 thread to insert in the hole. This provided a more substantial base for the new bolt.

I filled the surrounding area with JB Weld to secure the coupler in the hole.

I let it set for 24 hours and then sanded down the top to recreate the post.



I was then able to install the guide and torque the bolt down to 89in lbs as specified.


Hopefully this helps someone who finds themself in a similar situation.

Again, Thanks to all of you with your support and suggestions I was able to get this project back on track and I can now proceed with completing the timing chain installation. I just bought this car from someone who didn't have the time or money to fix the car. I thought it would be a simple timing chain r&r only to find this issue.
This car also has some of the worst sludge I've ever seen. I'll post a question about that it another thread.

Thanks.

 

The sludge and the broken bolt and timing components have the same root cause - poor maintenance. It's in better hands now.

You might want to check your JB weld repair after operating it for a while, that stuff is akin to plastics. It may not withstand the stresses of moving parts in the internal combustion engine.

 

Hi Everyone,

So I finally got the engine buttoned up after checking and rechecking that all timing marks were aligned and the the timing tensioner was properly released. Turn on the key and it immediately cranked over and purred like a kitten. It sounded great and only issue I could see was some burn off from some spilled oil
I let it idle for about 30 minutes to allow the oil to get circulated in the engine.
Then I took it out for a test drive and it ran fine for about 30 minutes then the check engine light came on and the engine shut down.
I was thinking it was related to a low battery so I got my jump box and was able to get it started again but it's making noise.
It will start now but doesn't sound right.

Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks

 

Pull the valve cover and check the timing chain for tension. If it's loose at all, do not crank it. The JBWeld may have let go.

And you'll want to post the OBD2 code that triggered the CEL.

 

From what I'm reading it may be dirty oil from sludge clogging up the timing solenoids. I never changed the oil after cleaning the sludge with a reg. I thought to drive it a bit with seafoam then change the oil but I may not have that kind of time.
It seems to crank over really easy I'm thinking if that jb weld gave way it would be hard pressed to crank.

 

What are the codes, let’s not assume the worst just yet.

 

Oldblue, the only code I got was the P0014. RJ_RS_SS_350, I decided to error on the side of caution so I did pull the valve cover and the chain was perfect. Nice and tight. Also I was able to look down and see that the guide was still secured by the bolt.
I did however pull the Variable timing solenoids for both the intake and exhaust and true to the P0014 code that I got the exhaust solenoid was packed with debris.

 

Since that is what P0014 means, I am not surprised. Replace both of them after you get the oil cleaned up.

 

I would have used a heli-coil instead of JB weld.