i drove mine up on ramps , i had to put some scrap wood in front on the ground and on the ramp so the front body wouldn't scrape. on most vehicles there is a place on either side where the frame coming from the back meets a short frame running across right behind the front wheel. i usually lift from there. just be sure you are on the frame and not the floorboard also not the lip/seam where the side body panel meets the floor board- some people do this even at tire and mechanic shops and it is careless ,incompitent, and wrong. i hate to take my stuff to anyone , there are so many that just don't care or even know what they are doing. i like my ramps because there is a place in my yard that has a little slope , when i pull on the ramps , my vehicle is still level. also jacks with wheels do not work right when the are on dirt/grass/soil , and jack stands will sink and fall , they should be used on level concrete.my shop is full , i have no concrete. also i put wood under my ramps so they don't sink. may be someone on here can post a pic of the frame and correct support places.

 

try using Amsoil, they make great synthetic oil which I use on my Xterra quite often. They guarentee you can get 25k out of one oil change, they even make a long duration oil filter, check out their stuff.

 

Under the sub frame or control arms in the front are safe or under the rear axle.

Note your owners manual as it should have were the safe points are.

I have not had to do much to mine yet. As of now I have been using the sub frame points for changing tires.

My GP I use the jack points on the rocker for the back and the sub frame for the front.

 

I put one of those Quik Valves on the HHR. I just reach under the car, flip the valve open, and drain away. No tools, no risk of dropping the drain plug, no hot oil on the hands. The valve is a solid brass ball valve with a spring loaded "gate" to stop the valve from opening by mistake.

I agree that the HHR is about the easiest oil change I've ever dome, as long as you spring for the correct tool to remove the filter cover. Now if they could only make the AIR filter that accessible...........

 

I was thinking of buying one of these for my HHR and my wifes car. How do you like it? The only thing I was worried about was if any road debris hits it, can the valve be jarred open, are you at greater risk of losing any oil?

 

No matter what oil you use, mineral based or synthetic, it breaks down over time. 25K between oil changes? OUCH!!

Synthetic oil is excellent if you live in extremely cold areas and/or you do a LOT of driving, towing, or stop and go driving. The HHR owner's mannual states:

"If you are in an area of extreme cold, where the temperature falls below −20°F (−29°C), it is recommended that you use either an SAE 5W-30
synthetic oil or an SAE 0W-30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for the engine at extremely low temperatures."

Even though I don't live in an extremely cold area, I run Mobil 1 in Car 11.

Regarding Oil Filters:

Wix makes an excellent oil filter (part # 57082) and the NAPA GOLD Filter part number FIL7082 is the exact same Wix filter, FIL7082 sells for $7.49 at NAPA Stores. Check out the WixFilter web site for a very interesting discussion on oil filters.

http://www.wixfilters.com/productinf...ilfilters.html

http://www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/index.html

They also have a GREAT related web site link on just about everything that has to do with cars:

http://www.wixfilters.com/relatedsites/index.asp

Regarding additives, the manual states:

"Engine Oil Additives do not add anything to the oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol that meet GM Standard GM6094M are all you will need for good performance and engine protection."

I'm a die hard SeaFoam guy, so this is difficult for me to follow. Enough said.

I would send an oil sample to one of the national labs and have them give you a report. That should ease your mind as to what is going on.

Lastly, and I'm sure you do this: Make sure your engine air filter is clean.

All the Best,

MWG2

I LOVE MY HHR!

 

would using wix void my gm warantee? i have the same ?s about the quick change valve as previously posted. oh , and where do you get them valves?

 

I have one on both my wife's car and mine; no problem so far, even driving in snow covered areas where the underside of the car drags. For anyone who gets this: our engines need the spacer/extender that they sell with the valve. Do a web search for "quickvalve".

One drawback of it is that the oil pours out much slower than using the drain plug, so if you're attempting to break the speed record for an oil change, forget it.

Yves

 

As stated the valves do not just come open and they do drain slow.

But how hard it is to just take a plug out?

Also it does make it easier for the neighbor kid to drain your oil out some night. No tools needed. LOL.

 

[QUOTE=MWG2;354786]No matter what oil you use, mineral based or synthetic, it breaks down over time. 25K between oil changes? OUCH!!

OR 1 year. It's nice to make this claim because the average driver does between 12,000 to 15,000 per year. I have used their 0W30 in my 98 Dodge Stratus since new in 98, following their recommended 35,000 miles or 1 year, but I've never put more than 15k on this car per year. There have been no repairs due to anything oil related (I wish they'd make electrical products)