Easiest and quickest workaround is to get a fob.

From personal experience, get a genuine GM fob. Dealership or locksmith should be able to program your vehicle to accept the new fob.

Dorman makes a programming module that comes with one of their fobs, but works with GM fobs also. The Dorman fob could be your backup fob. Problem with the Dorman fob is that it gives a "low fob batt" message on the DIC. But it does lock and unlock the vehicle.

At least you'll be able to unlock and get into the vehicle, giving you some time to figure out the driver side door.

 

You're not gonna believe this. My coworker asked me to show him since he didn't believe me and the door opened first try. After inspecting the latch, it was extremely dirty. I had some PB Blaster in my car so I cleaned/lubed it with that for now. When I get home I'm going to thoroughly clean all of the actuator latches to prevent this from happening again.

However if anyone would need to replace the driver door lock actuator, be prepared to do a bit of digging. I was able to find all of the other door actuators online for about $120 ish except for the driver door.

I will 100% be getting a key fob after this. I was extremely lucky that one of our Tow Truck accounts haplend to be in the store when this happened

 

I found many new and used on eBay.
hhr driver door latch: Search Result | eBay

If you work in a auto parts store you should be able to get a Dorman (some stores get it from somewhere else) fob kit. The supplied programmer works for any brand fob; it programs the car so I suggest you get a Genuine fob at the same time.

 

I will most likely go to the dealership to have them program a new fob I've had bad experiences with doorman products not always working correctly

 

As was stated; some of the fobs from Dorman don't work right but the program module does (unless you happen to get one that was used up and returned) they have a limited number of events.
That is why I recommend getting a Genuine fob as well as the kit. They can be had for less than $20, eBay has many OEM.
It's your money. Dealers usually charge 1 hour labor (commonly more than $120) and charge $138 for the part.

 

Ah ok that makes a bit more sense

 

During cleaning i noticed that the rubber coating on the driver door latch was falling apart. Since there was a pretty large peice missing (and all 3 other latches had the rubber coating intact), I feel like I can safely assume that the decaying rubber coating was the cause of the stuck door. I cut/tore off all of the loose bits and cleaned with a brush, some purple power, and some paper towels. After, i greased it with some white lithium grease and opened/closed the door a few times to make sure it was worked in.

 

Rubber coating ? Not on mine. Post up a picture.

If it is rubber, I wouldn't be spraying it with PB blaster like you did.

 

I only sprayed the PB Blaster on the damaged driver side latch while I was at work to prevent the door from locking up again while at work. Since then I have cleaned all of them and applied white lithium great to each latch


Front Driver side latch bare metal


Front Passenger side latch. Notice the balck rubber/plastic coating

 

Fire Wessi
Thank you for the Updates. Been a interesting thread :)