Noise clunk wobble
 

So the saga continues. After adding tranny fluid finding and fixing a pinhole in the water neck fill hose I finally go get stickers for it to test drive it after motor swap. First thing I notice is a severe clunk going thru gears. I figure it’s part of not getting the crank relearn done yet so I slowly drive down the road. I feel a wobble that increases with speed and hit the brakes and it feels like the world is coming apart up front. I lift the car. Check for a loose wheel on jack stands no pressure on suspension I can tell right away lower control arm shot passenger side. I took a video and could see the wheel shoving forward and back as I changed gears. I remove wheel clunk is worse so I throw a couple lug nuts on to hold the rotor in place. Got a little better . Loaded the suspension tried again still vibrating like hell with no wheel on. So I decide to pull the caliper and try again. It gets even better and sound a lot more smooth. I did notice slop in the axel on the tranny shaft passenger side. I’m going to get the rotors replaced tomorrow. I am going to attach a pic. I was wondering is the passenger side axel seated all the way? Also any other ideas of what to check or do? I have about 3 days before I need to have this car moving
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The axle looks seated, just a little wet around the axle seal .
Show us the LCA rear bushings

Control arm bushings confirmed shot is there a clip or nut or something on the rear bolt that goes thru the big bushing? I feel it spinning but not making progress coming out

Well any advise now would be great whatever it is on top the bolt is just spinning I can’t see in there to know what it is

The nut is supposed to be captured in a compartment. I don't have a picture but you need to get a tool (screwdriver) jammed into the compartment to hold it.

Okay I kinda figured that was the option it’s hot out and doing this in the road bites lol. I had one “tool” in there but it must have been to small around to hold it. Is this part replaceable after I do get it loose? If not I’m thinking but and washer time

Well the weld on the enclosure tab broke and I can feel the inner sleeve of the bushing turning so I suppose I’m gonna have to chop away on this some. If anyone has found a fast way I haven’t seen before feel free to shout it out

Check the common parts thread, I think someone posted the nut and bolt part number. If not it should be common enough for your local GM parts department.

That bolt welding itself to the sleeve is not rare. I remember a thread about it. I'll look for it. SwaintaN had the problem but didn't post his resolution, you could try a PM.
Here is another thread: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...says-no-51562/
Bolt part number= 11589009
From what I can tell the nut is sold as part of the sub frame so you would have to match it up.

That bolt seems endless if you aren’t using an impact wrench , twisting it out with a ratchet is torture

It depends on what size drive ratchet you're using.
Plus two people might help.

Well $25 worth of blades and all day yesterday got most the bolt and welded sleeve off. Finished it today and started the drivers side. Still had to cut the control arm off and the rubber but some heat and my impact got it apart. So now In the last 8 months I have replaced struts lower control arms sway arm end links. Still clunks but all the parts were for sure bad. When I touch the brakes I for sure feel the jerk and pulse of a warped rotor so that will be on my list the next few days. I’m going to replace them and then have the computer relearned done and make sure tire pressure is spot on before alignment. So anyone that reads this my solution for the capture nut was a new bolt and a nut off a Malibu front strut. It was still a GM flanged nut. Thank everyone for the help so far I couldn’t have got this thing this far without the forums help.

Please check your rear brakes. They probably need to be adjusted.

Thank you don that’s on my list to do. Replaced both front rotors and it’s at the dealer now getting programmed since I didn’t get my tech 2 in time.

Well another interesting thing. They claimed it would not do a crank relearn due to it not getting a tach signal so that’s $100 down the drain. I am about to scan it myself however any ideas why it would not program? The sensor is the same out of my old engine so it was working at the time the motor let go. I’m sure I used a comparable engine due to the other sensor being a 3 wire also. Ideas?

They are the experts.
Does the tach on the dash work? If it does you found the dumbest mechanic.

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No sir tach on dash does not work and no reading from torque pro either. My tech2 will be here in a few days. I’m thinking of buying a new sensor and putting in a new plug try to kill 2 birds with one stone. Opinions? The code is p0335. I don’t see how the pcm can be bad. It wasn’t bad when the original engine jumped time. I could see a possibility of the sensor giving out I left it hooked to the harness as I was pulling the engine.

You didn't say that!
Either the CKP sensor is bad or a wire is compromised. Other possibilities are worn out main bearings, damaged relutor, excessive crank runout,
And--- the CKP learn may have to be run up to 5 times after it is fixed.

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Check your PM.

I don’t see one yet as soon as it pops I will check