For $80 you can build your own intake.
my thoughts on the CAI....
OK, as I wait for the pisssing contest to end and I put on my waders........
I bought a CAI FOR THE LOOK. It goes without saying that CGS or any open element type will suck in hot air from the engine compartment. Im experimenting with finding a way to draw in cold air without major surgery. I believe Joe R regarding the stock box's unrestrictive properties. I just think it's uglier than 3 pounds of doo doo. Trying to get a few HP and even less at the wheels is futile in my book. ITS A N/A 4 banger folks. Cruise, look good and crank up the radio.
I bought a CAI FOR THE LOOK. It goes without saying that CGS or any open element type will suck in hot air from the engine compartment. Im experimenting with finding a way to draw in cold air without major surgery. I believe Joe R regarding the stock box's unrestrictive properties. I just think it's uglier than 3 pounds of doo doo. Trying to get a few HP and even less at the wheels is futile in my book. ITS A N/A 4 banger folks. Cruise, look good and crank up the radio.
When you open the hood on the SS, or any HHR for that matter, you will notice that there is an opening right below the front engine compartment brace, which goes across the top of the radiator and condenser. Now I am just thinking out loud here, but what if we do have an open element in the engine compartment and have a way to enclose that element and have the air fed through the opening I mentioned above. I think the 3rd Gen IROC-Z's had some type of "flat wide" air inlet duct that sat on top of the engine compartment on those F-Bodies. If we could figure out how to use one of those or find something that will fit in that said opening, we would then be drawing "cold air" from the front of the vehicle, (if you look through the top of the grill on the SS, you will notice that there is nothing in the way to stop air flow), this way we could almost achieve a "ram air" effect, providing that the open air element is enclosed in the engine compartment. This would be needed to be done on the driver's side, as the dip stick on the passenger side would be covered if done there. And the electrical connection on top of the condenser, could surely be repositioned under the brace to allow for the proposed air duct to fit in the opening. Think about it, no stock air box, an enclosed "open type element" feeding into the engine from the wide air duct that sits on top of the condenser-radiator, on the driver's side.
Opinions and thoughts welcomed...
TP-SIL-043 Straight Connector 3.00" ID - Turbo Silicone $6.50
ATP-ALM-001 Aluminum Straight Pipe 2 Feet Length - (*3" Dia) $24.00
ATP-ALM-001: 3.00INCH $4.00
CLC-CLA-005 T-Bolt Clamp - 3.25" $3.75
CLC-CLA-016 T-Bolt Clamp - 3.50" $3.75
ATP-ACS-006 3.00" Hi-Flow Cone Air Filter - Sm Base $38.00
Total: $80.00
ATP-ALM-001 Aluminum Straight Pipe 2 Feet Length - (*3" Dia) $24.00
ATP-ALM-001: 3.00INCH $4.00
CLC-CLA-005 T-Bolt Clamp - 3.25" $3.75
CLC-CLA-016 T-Bolt Clamp - 3.50" $3.75
ATP-ACS-006 3.00" Hi-Flow Cone Air Filter - Sm Base $38.00
Total: $80.00
4" S&D drain pipe x 2' $1.82
4"x4" rubber coupling (quantity 2) $8.64
1 roll duct tape $3.68
50' bailing wire $3.28
Building a homemade "cold" air "intake" on the cheap $priceless
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Hang in there with me as I get these thoughts on this thread. Whether the CAI is from CGS or whoever, I think there may be a way to make it work effectly on the SS. Here it goes:
When you open the hood on the SS, or any HHR for that matter, you will notice that there is an opening right below the front engine compartment brace, which goes across the top of the radiator and condenser. Now I am just thinking out loud here, but what if we do have an open element in the engine compartment and have a way to enclose that element and have the air fed through the opening I mentioned above. I think the 3rd Gen IROC-Z's had some type of "flat wide" air inlet duct that sat on top of the engine compartment on those F-Bodies. If we could figure out how to use one of those or find something that will fit in that said opening, we would then be drawing "cold air" from the front of the vehicle, (if you look through the top of the grill on the SS, you will notice that there is nothing in the way to stop air flow), this way we could almost achieve a "ram air" effect, providing that the open air element is enclosed in the engine compartment. This would be needed to be done on the driver's side, as the dip stick on the passenger side would be covered if done there. And the electrical connection on top of the condenser, could surely be repositioned under the brace to allow for the proposed air duct to fit in the opening. Think about it, no stock air box, an enclosed "open type element" feeding into the engine from the wide air duct that sits on top of the condenser-radiator, on the driver's side.
Opinions and thoughts welcomed...

When you open the hood on the SS, or any HHR for that matter, you will notice that there is an opening right below the front engine compartment brace, which goes across the top of the radiator and condenser. Now I am just thinking out loud here, but what if we do have an open element in the engine compartment and have a way to enclose that element and have the air fed through the opening I mentioned above. I think the 3rd Gen IROC-Z's had some type of "flat wide" air inlet duct that sat on top of the engine compartment on those F-Bodies. If we could figure out how to use one of those or find something that will fit in that said opening, we would then be drawing "cold air" from the front of the vehicle, (if you look through the top of the grill on the SS, you will notice that there is nothing in the way to stop air flow), this way we could almost achieve a "ram air" effect, providing that the open air element is enclosed in the engine compartment. This would be needed to be done on the driver's side, as the dip stick on the passenger side would be covered if done there. And the electrical connection on top of the condenser, could surely be repositioned under the brace to allow for the proposed air duct to fit in the opening. Think about it, no stock air box, an enclosed "open type element" feeding into the engine from the wide air duct that sits on top of the condenser-radiator, on the driver's side.
Opinions and thoughts welcomed...

good thinking. i was just wondering a couple days ago as i was reading in this thread if there was indeed a gap up there. for anyone interested in the 3rd gen ducting he is talking about, see here.that is actually more the Camaro RS setup, as it's TBI, the TPI setup would also sort of work, but those were more for routing air up from behind the grill on a Camaro, as seen here, except that was him being clever and adapting the TPI setup to a TBI motor. there is a third style, and may actually be an idea, if anyone wants to find a clever way to make the box around this filter setup
I think we can do it.........yes along those lines of the 3rd gen ducting, but it would have to be more streamline in approach for function and appearance. I was even thinking of removing the stock air box, keep the filter in the same location, but enclosed, and running a "tube" , ducting of somer sort to the said opening to connect to the proposed air duct. Also the air temp sensor now could be placed outside of the engine compartment, in the actual proposed air duct, for a more "cooler" air reading, therefore allowing the ECM to allow more timing. Did this on my 97 C5 way back when, used the ZR1 temp sensor, on a new air box system, worked great....
not knowing much about turbo engines, did not even give thought about how that would effect the turbo....
never had any trouble with the LS1, but then again that was an NA engine as we know. would there be a difference since we have the turbo, would it cause it to ping, even with using 93 in the tank?????????
I don't recall that mod using that air temp sensor making such a drastic change.
have no clue, so any insight is a learning experience...


