Dyamat Information
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 01-02-2013
Posts: 11
From: Ohio
Dyamat Information
I have a HHR SS, and was wondering how much difference installing Dynamat in the vehicle would make. I would like to do away with as much road noise as possible. Any feed back is welcome, especially from anyone that has installed Dynamat in an HHR.
Last edited by Wild Geese 1; Jan 6, 2013 at 09:18 PM. Reason: correction
Senior Member
Joined: 09-19-2012
Posts: 70
From: North Glendale, AZ
I have not usd Dynamat on an HHR but I used Dynamat through out my 1969 Olds Vista Cruiser Hot Rod and it made a huge difference in noise and temperature inside the car.
Living in Phoenix Arizona controlling the inside temp of a car is a really major concern and Dynamat really works but you have to use a lot of it.
To do it right you have to cover the entire floor and inside the doors. It is not an inexpensive undertaking Dynamat is very expensive and the install is very labor intensive as you have to remove all of the carpet install the Dynamat then re install new carpet pad and the carpet. Then remove the door panels install the Dynamat on the metal door making sure that none of the wiring is disturbed and reinstall the door panels on an HHR you will also want to do the rear hatch also.
If you really want to go nuts then do what I did and remove the Headliner and install Dynamat on the roof then install a new Headliner.
Dynamat is very heavy and doing the floor and doors will probably add close to 50lbs to the car.
I plan on using Dynamat to insulate my intercooler pipes and my K&N air intake box and pipes on my HHR SS before this summer its really good stuff.
Hope this helps
Living in Phoenix Arizona controlling the inside temp of a car is a really major concern and Dynamat really works but you have to use a lot of it.
To do it right you have to cover the entire floor and inside the doors. It is not an inexpensive undertaking Dynamat is very expensive and the install is very labor intensive as you have to remove all of the carpet install the Dynamat then re install new carpet pad and the carpet. Then remove the door panels install the Dynamat on the metal door making sure that none of the wiring is disturbed and reinstall the door panels on an HHR you will also want to do the rear hatch also.
If you really want to go nuts then do what I did and remove the Headliner and install Dynamat on the roof then install a new Headliner.
Dynamat is very heavy and doing the floor and doors will probably add close to 50lbs to the car.
I plan on using Dynamat to insulate my intercooler pipes and my K&N air intake box and pipes on my HHR SS before this summer its really good stuff.
Hope this helps
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 01-02-2013
Posts: 11
From: Ohio
I have not usd Dynamat on an HHR but I used Dynamat through out my 1969 Olds Vista Cruiser Hot Rod and it made a huge difference in noise and temperature inside the car.
Living in Phoenix Arizona controlling the inside temp of a car is a really major concern and Dynamat really works but you have to use a lot of it.
To do it right you have to cover the entire floor and inside the doors. It is not an inexpensive undertaking Dynamat is very expensive and the install is very labor intensive as you have to remove all of the carpet install the Dynamat then re install new carpet pad and the carpet. Then remove the door panels install the Dynamat on the metal door making sure that none of the wiring is disturbed and reinstall the door panels on an HHR you will also want to do the rear hatch also.
If you really want to go nuts then do what I did and remove the Headliner and install Dynamat on the roof then install a new Headliner.
Dynamat is very heavy and doing the floor and doors will probably add close to 50lbs to the car.
I plan on using Dynamat to insulate my intercooler pipes and my K&N air intake box and pipes on my HHR SS before this summer its really good stuff.
Hope this helps
Living in Phoenix Arizona controlling the inside temp of a car is a really major concern and Dynamat really works but you have to use a lot of it.
To do it right you have to cover the entire floor and inside the doors. It is not an inexpensive undertaking Dynamat is very expensive and the install is very labor intensive as you have to remove all of the carpet install the Dynamat then re install new carpet pad and the carpet. Then remove the door panels install the Dynamat on the metal door making sure that none of the wiring is disturbed and reinstall the door panels on an HHR you will also want to do the rear hatch also.
If you really want to go nuts then do what I did and remove the Headliner and install Dynamat on the roof then install a new Headliner.
Dynamat is very heavy and doing the floor and doors will probably add close to 50lbs to the car.
I plan on using Dynamat to insulate my intercooler pipes and my K&N air intake box and pipes on my HHR SS before this summer its really good stuff.
Hope this helps
Thank you very much for your response, yes it is helpful, I am hoping that someone on here has already put Dynamat in their HHR hopefully an SS for direct knowledge, thanks again.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-13-2008
Posts: 4,708
From: Washington State, where it rains
Do some research/shopping around..there are compatible like items out there for far less then what Dyna costs....stuff works..after applying you'll constantly think you have a window open..as the widow/air noise will become more pronounced, whereas before it just blended in with the rest of the outside noise.
Senior Member
Joined: 11-18-2008
Posts: 744
From: Oak Harbor, Washington
I used a product called FatMat, a lot less money for the same results, I did everything minus the roof with about 200 Sq. feet. You should be able to find it on ebay.http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40
Senior Member
Joined: 10-06-2011
Posts: 1,150
From: Mesa, AZ
Mass loaded vinyl will do even more for blocking sounds then will dynamat products. Used in conjunction with one another will go even further. If you use MLV then the dynamat material only needs to cover the center 25%-40% of the flat surfaces to prevent resonants. Then the MLV is used to cover the entire area and will block noise transmissions.
If you pull down the carpeting that runs up the fire wall you will see that GM already has gone this very route by using MLV on the firewall and the wheel wells. It ends though at the begining of the floor so it is only doing so much. If you continue this to the rear it will eliminate most noise. The rear hatch area is also already covered with MLV so you just need to come to the rear seat area to meet the rear section.
I am using Rattle trap by Fatmat as I did not really know the differences in the various brands of deadeners but I will not use it again. It is asphalt based and does smell at first. It doesn't melt though out here in the AZ heat so it does last to a point. BUT I have expirienced the aluminum seperating from the deadening compound. This Rattle trap version is supposed to be their best product so keep this in mind.
Here is a good site/company web site to read about killing noise using these products. This gentalman is highly regarded when it comes to deadening a car in the Meca(sp?) and Iasca car audio world.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
If you pull down the carpeting that runs up the fire wall you will see that GM already has gone this very route by using MLV on the firewall and the wheel wells. It ends though at the begining of the floor so it is only doing so much. If you continue this to the rear it will eliminate most noise. The rear hatch area is also already covered with MLV so you just need to come to the rear seat area to meet the rear section.
I am using Rattle trap by Fatmat as I did not really know the differences in the various brands of deadeners but I will not use it again. It is asphalt based and does smell at first. It doesn't melt though out here in the AZ heat so it does last to a point. BUT I have expirienced the aluminum seperating from the deadening compound. This Rattle trap version is supposed to be their best product so keep this in mind.
Here is a good site/company web site to read about killing noise using these products. This gentalman is highly regarded when it comes to deadening a car in the Meca(sp?) and Iasca car audio world.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 01-02-2013
Posts: 11
From: Ohio
Do some research/shopping around..there are compatible like items out there for far less then what Dyna costs....stuff works..after applying you'll constantly think you have a window open..as the widow/air noise will become more pronounced, whereas before it just blended in with the rest of the outside noise.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 01-02-2013
Posts: 11
From: Ohio
Mass loaded vinyl will do even more for blocking sounds then will dynamat products. Used in conjunction with one another will go even further. If you use MLV then the dynamat material only needs to cover the center 25%-40% of the flat surfaces to prevent resonants. Then the MLV is used to cover the entire area and will block noise transmissions.
If you pull down the carpeting that runs up the fire wall you will see that GM already has gone this very route by using MLV on the firewall and the wheel wells. It ends though at the begining of the floor so it is only doing so much. If you continue this to the rear it will eliminate most noise. The rear hatch area is also already covered with MLV so you just need to come to the rear seat area to meet the rear section.
I am using Rattle trap by Fatmat as I did not really know the differences in the various brands of deadeners but I will not use it again. It is asphalt based and does smell at first. It doesn't melt though out here in the AZ heat so it does last to a point. BUT I have expirienced the aluminum seperating from the deadening compound. This Rattle trap version is supposed to be their best product so keep this in mind.
Here is a good site/company web site to read about killing noise using these products. This gentalman is highly regarded when it comes to deadening a car in the Meca(sp?) and Iasca car audio world.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
If you pull down the carpeting that runs up the fire wall you will see that GM already has gone this very route by using MLV on the firewall and the wheel wells. It ends though at the begining of the floor so it is only doing so much. If you continue this to the rear it will eliminate most noise. The rear hatch area is also already covered with MLV so you just need to come to the rear seat area to meet the rear section.
I am using Rattle trap by Fatmat as I did not really know the differences in the various brands of deadeners but I will not use it again. It is asphalt based and does smell at first. It doesn't melt though out here in the AZ heat so it does last to a point. BUT I have expirienced the aluminum seperating from the deadening compound. This Rattle trap version is supposed to be their best product so keep this in mind.
Here is a good site/company web site to read about killing noise using these products. This gentalman is highly regarded when it comes to deadening a car in the Meca(sp?) and Iasca car audio world.
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Thank you for your response, and information, you have given me some homework.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-20-2011
Posts: 120
From: Cape Cod, MA
Ive been planning to do this for some time, start with 100 sq ft of fatmat because the price/quality/quantity is unbeatable. Do the doors/roof/floor/rear deck, then deal with the trunk later. Should take away from the "cheap chevy" feel.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-13-2008
Posts: 4,708
From: Washington State, where it rains
Ive only done the rear hatch area(all) and all the doors...still have a good size roll left so planning on the floor this summer..made a remarkable difference..did not remove the hatch factory deadener. Doors sound solid as lead.
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