First problem
#1
First problem
Well, aside from the brake fade upon cold startup. Just last week I hit the brakes hard at around 50 mph and started to get the shutter thing happening. I can't believe I have warped rotors at less than 4K miles. And I baby this car quite a bit. I've had this issue on almost every GM I've ever owned, but it usually takes 20K+ miles before it happens.
Has anyone else taken their SS back to the dealer for this problem? If so, will they fix it under warranty, or claim that brakes are not covered? Should I wait until they have a fix for the brake fade and get them both done at the same time?
Has anyone else taken their SS back to the dealer for this problem? If so, will they fix it under warranty, or claim that brakes are not covered? Should I wait until they have a fix for the brake fade and get them both done at the same time?
#2
I personally wouldn't screw around when it comes to brakes. Get the torque wrench out and check the torque on the lug nuts, give it the test ride and if it isn't ok at least give'em a heads up.....hey guys remember the brake/ lack of brake thing? Now the brakes are vibin', what do YOU want me to do at this point? Let them take on the liability.......( stop in unannounced, put them on the spot, phone call isn't good enough in this case, get documentation!!!!!! )
#3
I personally wouldn't screw around when it comes to brakes. Get the torque wrench out and check the torque on the lug nuts, give it the test ride and if it isn't ok at least give'em a heads up.....hey guys remember the brake/ lack of brake thing? Now the brakes are vibin', what do YOU want me to do at this point? Let them take on the liability.......( stop in unannounced, put them on the spot, phone call isn't good enough in this case, get documentation!!!!!! )
#5
Greetings,
I suggest you read this http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq&a.html and take a look at item 5. Everyone having HHR brake problems (including myself) starts blaming the rotors. I think this writeup may shed some light. I have aftermarket rotors and organic semi metallic pads that I installed on my 2006 HHR in March. I have 10,000 miles of trouble free brakes. My parts are not high performance but came from Auto Zone.
I suggest you read this http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq&a.html and take a look at item 5. Everyone having HHR brake problems (including myself) starts blaming the rotors. I think this writeup may shed some light. I have aftermarket rotors and organic semi metallic pads that I installed on my 2006 HHR in March. I have 10,000 miles of trouble free brakes. My parts are not high performance but came from Auto Zone.
#6
Greetings,
I suggest you read this http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq&a.html and take a look at item 5. Everyone having HHR brake problems (including myself) starts blaming the rotors. I think this writeup may shed some light. I have aftermarket rotors and organic semi metallic pads that I installed on my 2006 HHR in March. I have 10,000 miles of trouble free brakes. My parts are not high performance but came from Auto Zone.
I suggest you read this http://www.ebcbrakes.com/assets/typicalq&a.html and take a look at item 5. Everyone having HHR brake problems (including myself) starts blaming the rotors. I think this writeup may shed some light. I have aftermarket rotors and organic semi metallic pads that I installed on my 2006 HHR in March. I have 10,000 miles of trouble free brakes. My parts are not high performance but came from Auto Zone.
Why do rotors suffer vibration after 3000-4000 miles and how can EBC be so precise in this mileage estimate, surely it cannot be the same for every car???????? … this is a common question.
The reason the mileage is more or less the same for every car where vibration occurs is that the problem develops OFF BRAKE or when you are driving without applying the brake. The more freeway driving you do the more easily this can occur. The excess runout mentioned above caused in 90% of the cases by bad fitting and not checking for runout (and the other 10% due to a hub not running true such a car that has impacted a curb at some time) … causes the pad to “Kiss” the rotor gently each revolution of the wheel as you drive. After the above mileage period the pads wear a microscopic thin spot on the rotor and a condition known as DTV occurs. This DTV (Disc Thickness Variation) causes the brake to pulse. A small amount of runout itself does NOT cause vibration but the tiniest amount of DTV does cause vibration. That is why when a rotor is not running true the car does not exhibit vibration in the first few miles and this explains how it shows up later (3000-4000 miles).
How can I cure this vibration problem ??????
Rotors will need to be turned at a machine shop or brake fitting center or replaced. EBC sport grooved rotors can be turned with good results on standard AAMCO brake lathes. If too badly scored or worn some rotors will have to be replaced. New pads will ALWAYS be needed.
The reason the mileage is more or less the same for every car where vibration occurs is that the problem develops OFF BRAKE or when you are driving without applying the brake. The more freeway driving you do the more easily this can occur. The excess runout mentioned above caused in 90% of the cases by bad fitting and not checking for runout (and the other 10% due to a hub not running true such a car that has impacted a curb at some time) … causes the pad to “Kiss” the rotor gently each revolution of the wheel as you drive. After the above mileage period the pads wear a microscopic thin spot on the rotor and a condition known as DTV occurs. This DTV (Disc Thickness Variation) causes the brake to pulse. A small amount of runout itself does NOT cause vibration but the tiniest amount of DTV does cause vibration. That is why when a rotor is not running true the car does not exhibit vibration in the first few miles and this explains how it shows up later (3000-4000 miles).
How can I cure this vibration problem ??????
Rotors will need to be turned at a machine shop or brake fitting center or replaced. EBC sport grooved rotors can be turned with good results on standard AAMCO brake lathes. If too badly scored or worn some rotors will have to be replaced. New pads will ALWAYS be needed.
#8
If you drive conservative on the brakes, sometimes pad material builds up and that causes the problem. A few hard stops will fix it if its that, and if not, didn't hurt anything.
PS: It is covered under warranty, just do NOT tell them anyone else ever had the wheels off, because in the warranty paperwork I've seen on Corvettes, the tech center says they don't have control if anyone other than the dealer has ever taken the wheels off(may not have torqued them right). Now that is BS, because I checked the wheel torque on my new delivered Z06 back in '01and the wheel torque from the factory varied from 45 b/ft to 140 lb/ft.
Warping rotors, huh, how come when we were young NOBODY torqued lugnuts, and NOBODY had warped rotors? (of course we had to change plugs every 5-10k miles, and adjust points too)
PS: It is covered under warranty, just do NOT tell them anyone else ever had the wheels off, because in the warranty paperwork I've seen on Corvettes, the tech center says they don't have control if anyone other than the dealer has ever taken the wheels off(may not have torqued them right). Now that is BS, because I checked the wheel torque on my new delivered Z06 back in '01and the wheel torque from the factory varied from 45 b/ft to 140 lb/ft.
Warping rotors, huh, how come when we were young NOBODY torqued lugnuts, and NOBODY had warped rotors? (of course we had to change plugs every 5-10k miles, and adjust points too)
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