LDK Build 2.0
#13
#14
Not really true. https://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...evrolet/cobalt
I've contacted them, would need to send them an existing shaft to compare or get the measurements they want.
I've contacted them, would need to send them an existing shaft to compare or get the measurements they want.
#15
Not really true. https://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...evrolet/cobalt
I've contacted them, would need to send them an existing shaft to compare or get the measurements they want.
I've contacted them, would need to send them an existing shaft to compare or get the measurements they want.
#16
If you have the money anything can be fabricated.
DrLoch sorry for the repeat of their site.
https://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...evrolet/cobalt
DrLoch sorry for the repeat of their site.
https://www.driveshaftshop.com/domes...evrolet/cobalt
#17
UPDATE:
Memorial Day Weekend we officially began the journey with this build. We had the motor/front end out of the car is a little over 2 hours.
The rest of the day however was us stripping the motor down to the block and head. The machinist wants it in its basic form with no extras attached to it. Although this motor only has about 4000 miles on it, doing this build has helped us see some issues that need to get fixed along the way.
First thing - fuel on the front of the block. When we tried to remove the opel injectors, the fuel rail came off, but the injectors were stuck in the block. Turns out one of the injectors is missing the straw that goes into the fuel rail. This could be the reason for the fuel leak, and definitely the reason why the car would break up on the top end.
Another thing we noticed was oil around the HPFP. Originally we thought it was due to the LT1 fuel pump in the engine, but it was from the intake cam sensor. Further inspection showed a nic in the rubber grommet - easy fix!
Removed both intake and exhaust manifolds - everything looked good up front. Exhaust manifold however there was a little black ring around the far left port. This explains why I would blow a little black smoke under heavy load.
Other than that, everything else looks good - as we expected since the motor only has about 4000 miles on it. Removed the valve cover, stock k04 turbo and oil lines, the water pump cover, front cover - basically everything until we had a bare block and head.
Check out the video of us removing the motor from the car here! -
That's it for now - we are planning on dropping off the stripped down motor and all internals to the machinist this upcoming Friday. I'll update when we get the call to pick it up.
Memorial Day Weekend we officially began the journey with this build. We had the motor/front end out of the car is a little over 2 hours.
The rest of the day however was us stripping the motor down to the block and head. The machinist wants it in its basic form with no extras attached to it. Although this motor only has about 4000 miles on it, doing this build has helped us see some issues that need to get fixed along the way.
First thing - fuel on the front of the block. When we tried to remove the opel injectors, the fuel rail came off, but the injectors were stuck in the block. Turns out one of the injectors is missing the straw that goes into the fuel rail. This could be the reason for the fuel leak, and definitely the reason why the car would break up on the top end.
Another thing we noticed was oil around the HPFP. Originally we thought it was due to the LT1 fuel pump in the engine, but it was from the intake cam sensor. Further inspection showed a nic in the rubber grommet - easy fix!
Removed both intake and exhaust manifolds - everything looked good up front. Exhaust manifold however there was a little black ring around the far left port. This explains why I would blow a little black smoke under heavy load.
Other than that, everything else looks good - as we expected since the motor only has about 4000 miles on it. Removed the valve cover, stock k04 turbo and oil lines, the water pump cover, front cover - basically everything until we had a bare block and head.
Check out the video of us removing the motor from the car here! -
That's it for now - we are planning on dropping off the stripped down motor and all internals to the machinist this upcoming Friday. I'll update when we get the call to pick it up.
#18
OK first thing first, I never hit the bell on your youtube to get a notice. Yeah I'm dumb at times.
Second, you know those chains can go bad real quick, like at 100K. You should change them now and save yourself some grief.
Second, you know those chains can go bad real quick, like at 100K. You should change them now and save yourself some grief.
#19
and yes - mostly the guides tend to fail around that time. As of right now I average 1000 miles/year or less, so I’ll be long gone before 100k.