HHR SS Topics and information on the 2008-2010 Chevy HHR SS Turbocharged models.

LDK Build 2.0

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Old Aug 11, 2019 | 07:15 AM
  #21  
drummerboy0088's Avatar
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We're back at it. Picked up the motor from the machinist (John at Master Machine in Salem, NJ) last week.

Everything that was done:
  • Teardown and clean block, head, any components going back in (valves, rocker arms, etc)
  • Check and polish crank
  • Install Wiseco forged 86mm pisons and ZZPerformance 4340 Rods
  • Install ARP stud kit
  • Install ZZPerformance/Comp Cams LHU/LDK Stage 2 cams
  • Install SuperTech 94# Dual Springs/Retainers








Next Saturday we start putting the car back together.
Old Aug 11, 2019 | 07:45 PM
  #22  
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Fun!! That’s awesome, more pictures or maybe some how too’s for the Assembly
Old Sep 3, 2019 | 12:13 PM
  #23  
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UPDATE!




2 weeks ago we started with assembly. First step was to install flywheel/flexplate to engine




The machinist didn't re-install the chains, so that was task 1. Super easy to do, but we used the Cloyes YouTube Video for a visual guide (
).
It's very easy to do when you do the following:
Make sure crank is TDC (key cutout should be at 12 o'clock position)
Balance Chain - TWO chain links are same color, 1 is different (colors vary depending on chain)
  • Intake balancer sprocket mark/arrow should be at 12 o'clock poison, Exhaust sprocket mark should be at 6 o" clock position
  • Line up colored link (1 different) with mark on intake balancer sprocket
  • Line up other colored link (one of the two similar colors) with mark on exhaust balancer sprocket
  • Wrap chain around water pump sprocket
  • Line up last colored link (again one of the two similar colors) with mark on crank sprocket (around 6 o'clock position)
  • Install Balance Shaft Chain guides - easiest to install top guide, right side, then left side. CHAIN WILL FIT IN CENTER GUIDE GROOVES!
  • Install Balance Shaft tensioner. Confirm all links line up with sprocket marks BEFORE REMOVING PIN FROM TENSIONER. If lined up, remove pin (no boom)
  • Install oil nozzle
  • Install smaller crank sprocket to crank shaft.



Cam Chain - Again TWO links are same color, 1 is different (colors vary depending on chain)
  • Line up colored link (1 that is different) with diamond mark intake sprocket, and fish chain through cam drive chest (through BOTH sides of casting bosses), and get the cain over the crank shaft nose.
  • Install cam sprocket. Since our engines are VVT, there's a pin that is inserted into the end of the cams (also known as indexing). We made a mark on the outside of the cam sprocket to make it easier to line it up with the cams. Once fully indexed (should do so smoothly), install new sprocket bolt (finger tight).
  • Install left side tensioner guide
  • Line up colored link (one of the two similar colors) with diamond mark on exhaust sprocket. Index sprocket onto exhaust cam - you might need to rotate the intake cam counter-clockwise (just a SMALL amount) with a 24mm wrench to get the exhaust sprocket to index. This is easier with a friend!
  • Confirm that colored link (one of the two similar colors) aligns with crank sprocket mark around 5 o'clock position
  • Install left hand guide, and install the upper bolt access plug (use thread sealant on threads)
  • Install primary chain tensioner, and activate by compression about 1/8" to the top of the pivoting tensioner guide (see youtube vid linked above around 13:15 mark).
  • Install upper guide

Midway through cam chain install



Although the video advises not to rotate the crank (since color marks will not align back up with timing marks), we did it anyway a few rotations just to make sure nothing is hitting. Nothing hit, so it was time to get the engine back on the front cradle, and start putting it back together. We installed:
  • Re-install water pump cover and lines
  • New front cover and gasket
  • Re-install Opel Injectors/rail
  • re-install LT1 fuel pump
  • re-install TTR manifold with Performance Autowerks heat spacer (reduces heat transfer between engine and manifold)
  • Install Performance Autowerks heat spacer between throttle body and manifold
  • Install new LDK valve cover that I got powder coated black
  • re-install int/ext solenoids
  • Install new ZZP exhaust manifold
  • Install ATI super damper





This Saturday we're back at it.
Old Sep 3, 2019 | 07:46 PM
  #24  
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You choose not to use the top bolt replacement for the front guide?
Old Sep 10, 2019 | 07:53 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Oldblue
You choose not to use the top bolt replacement for the front guide?
Nah - the original seemed just fine and is holding tension.
Old Sep 10, 2019 | 03:39 PM
  #26  
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https://zzperformance.com/products/e...ain-guide-bolt


Much stronger then the bolt


Last edited by Oldblue; Sep 10, 2019 at 04:23 PM.
Old Oct 1, 2019 | 10:27 AM
  #27  
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Last Saturday we finally got the motor back in the car. Just a few more steps figuring out the air intake and vacuum lines.

Old Oct 24, 2019 | 08:11 PM
  #28  
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UPDATE - This build is DONE

Old Nov 2, 2019 | 09:44 PM
  #29  
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Nice build! I need to retune, I should reach out to ZZP. Have lots of their parts and HPT.


also, have a LDK from them.
Old Feb 5, 2020 | 07:44 PM
  #30  
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**UPDATE ON THE CHANNEL**

We finally put the car on the dyno to see what kind of numbers it can put down!




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