Odd sound update and some more questions
 

Car Year 2006 and 2008Car Make ChevyCar Model:HHRTrim: SS and LT
Engine 2.0 and 2.4



I have a couple questions actually about both of my HHR’s

I know this the SS board but I figured I would kill two birds with one stone since I( have a question about my SS I figured I might get lucky and get the answer to my LT question

My 2006 LT – I don’t have a FOB for it I need to replace it but it’s not at the top of my list. The problem I am having is when I unlock the door and open it up my car alarm/horn keeps beeping loudly until I put the key in the ignition and start it.



I am hoping when I do order the FOB the one I get you can plug in and it will program the Fob for you. I am hoping that will solve the issue.



If it’s doesn’t has anyone else had that issue and how as it resolved?



Now on my 2008 HHR SS - I took it in and had it checked and it is the Right-side Hub. So that question has been answered.



Next question. I installed an aftermarket stereo and system in my car. I had no clue that it would kill the Onstar. If there are sort of adapter that I can have put on to make my Onstar work?



Next question. Can the clutch be adjusted on the SS? I had a new clutch, clutch plate, clutch sensor ( put a pin in this one) put on not too long ago. Every now and then I will go to take off and it can be on a level street but if I get into it the clutch will spin. I have to let off the throttle and then slowly increase speed for it to catch up. I have been driving stick since I was fourteen so it’s not how I am driving it. Anyone have any ideas they can toss my way to check into?



Last question. Now this question I will be shocked yet grateful if anyone can answer it. I have the check engine light come on and go off randomly. When it is on it always says it is the “Clutch sensor” I had a completely new clutch, clutch plate and a total of three sensors put in. Yet it has yet to solved the problem with the check engine light coming on.



About every other time it comes on my car must get menopausal. It will just be dead. Completely dead. No stereo, no wiper, no ignition nothing. Dead as a door nail.



I have taken it to three Chevy dealerships and spent a couple grand having this or that done which they thought was the problem. I actually got into it with a service manager because he was telling me that I need to get the clutch clutch plate and sensor changed. I told him I just has two of them done and the third the sensor done three times. I asked if I went ahead with his useless suggestion and paid to have that done. If once it was done would he reimburse me because I am told him already I just had it done and it was not he issue. Yet he is saying I have to pay for them to do it again and I want to know if I will get my money back when it doesn’t work. He said he would not be able to refund the money.



I suggested we try other things and leave that as they very last option. He did another $1K worth of work which did fck all and didn’t fix it. He finally said he had no idea and he had done all that he could do. I politely explained how happy I was to have spent all that money and nothing was fixed



I decided to try my luck with another dealership. I told them what the issue was and handed them the paperwork on what had already been done. They took a look at it and said they had no clue. The check engine light must have known I was at the dealership because it suddenly wouldn’t come on.



A day or two later as I was driving it came on again. I took it straight to another Chevy dealership. I handed them the paperwork and explained that it always says a “Clutch position sensor” Yet it along with the clutch and clutch plate I had recently had replaced, and the position sensor replaced three times. It was not the sensor. They took it back and had it for about two days and called and said they had no idea what was wrong with it and asked when I could come pick it up.



It is still an ongoing issue but now when it dies, I don’t have to have it towed back in. I bought a code scan took and now I just plug it in, clear the codes and it will start right up again. Putting $1K’s into it did nothing but flush the money. Yet spending the $60 has saved my azz time and time again.



Before anyone starts in about a clutch position sensor vs a break sensor, I am going to attach a couple pictures. The reader code says clutch position sensor. When you put in a search for a clutch position sensor it comes up as a break pedal sensor. But if you click on the brake pedal sensor it will suddenly take you to the clutch position sensor.



So anyone ever heard of this issues?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...0c56bc4fc0.png
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...94e88fcbfc.png
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...2a4ccea974.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...8b2544bfe2.png

Ok, first, the 2006. If you lock the doors electrically, and unlock with the key, the alarm will sound. Because you armed it by locking electrically. If you lock the doors mechanically, by pushing the plunger down, the alarm system will not arm. This changed in 2009(maybe 2008?), which is why it's different on the SS. Your SS, you can only arm the alarm system by locking with the fob.

Yes, there are adapters that keep your chimes and On Star operable. You can check at Crutchfield.

The clutch is not adjustable. The pedal position sensor is for cruise control and starter safety. Perhaps the flywheel didn't get turned when the clutch was replaced? Or maybe the pressure plate is weak.

No idea on the code, you have to provide the code so we can know what you're dealing with.

As for the car being dead sometimes, check the battery cables, sometimes the terminal clamp will crack. Check the cable connections at the underhood fuse block also, as well as at the starter and the alternator. Check the negative cable to it's ground point.

The clutch pedal position sensor and the brake pedal position sensor is the same part number. I swapped them once, long ago, trying to fix an issue with the throttle hanging for several seconds after the clutch was depressed and the accelerator pedal released. I never had the issue again.

CELs don't talk; they don't say anything. They do provide a test number that has failed. If you provide us with the number we might be of assistance. The fact that all electrical activity is affected leads me to think a wire is shorting somewhere.

<edit> There are 4 separate codes that have "clutch pedal" in the name.

If you order a fob that has the programming module you will get one with a programming module. They state if they are included in their advertising. They cost more.

See the article starting on page 2-16 in your Owner Manual for an explanation of the theft alarm. Look at my sig before you type it!

Quote : Next question. Can the clutch be adjusted on the SS? I had a new clutch, clutch plate, clutch sensor ( put a pin in this one) put on not too long ago. Every now and then I will go to take off and it can be on a level street but if I get into it the clutch will spin. I have to let off the throttle and then slowly increase speed for it to catch up. I have been driving stick since I was fourteen so it’s not how I am driving it. Anyone have any ideas they can toss my way to check into?

If the clutch has been slipping like that, then you most likely have damaged the clutch disc, pressure plate and flywheel.
Why not take it back to the place that did the work ? I hope you used a reputable shop that stands behind their work. Make them fix it.

X2^^^^^

The way most 2006 owners deal with it is to lock the doors before opening the driver door then unlock the driver door using the plunger then get out lock with the plunger close the door.