This is the only oil that you should use in your HHR SS !!!
 

This is the best oil ever made for our HHR SS DI engine.
& for every other DI engine...:twothumbs:
http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/produc..._Motor_Oil.pdf

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pennzoil-...2222#read-more

Don't be confused when you read that it is for diesel engines also...:twothumbs:

Pennzoil Platinum-Euro L 5W-30
Must be Euro L.

At Walmart for $20 a 5qt jug.
Pennzoil online rebate $10 on a 5qt jug.
So, the best oil ever made for DI engines is only $10 for a 5 qt jug.



This is the oil you want to help prevent DI 'coking' of the intake valves...:twothumbs:
Understanding intake valve coking in DI engines - ModernCamaro.com - 5th Generation Camaro Enthusiasts

The Problem with Direct Injection ? Coked Up Valves

This oil also helps with the DI 'super-knock' issues...
SAGE Journals: Your gateway to world-class journal research

Knocking combustion in spark-ignition engines - ScienceDirect

http://www.laurent-duval.eu/Articles...e_ihcsieva.pdf

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/...ctrode-breakup

A lot of great information to back up the claim. Awesome.

Yeah, thanks Dave. I subscribed so that I can check all this out when I have time!

Maybe I'm missing something. Where in any of the articles does it say this oil is the best? We all know of the choking problem. How to use a spray or R&I the intake to clean the back side of the valves.
The $2 rebate doesn't list this oil either.
http://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promot...Rpb25hbDE3Lw==
Just my 2 cents.

Because turbocharger...:twothumbs:

The most current dexos1™ specification (dexos1™ Gen 2) was released in 2015 to provide even higher engine performance and protection, particularly low speed pre-ignition (LSPI) protection in small displacement turbo-charged engines.

Meets dextros 2..:twothumbs:
dexos®

Low ash, low sulphur, low phosphorus oil = less 'coking' of DI intake valves...:twothumbs:

If anyone knows of a better oil for DI engines w/ turbo, let us know...:twothumbs:

Euro L is a Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic oil.
I have sent in several online rebates, but haven't received any checks yet.
I don't see this as being an issue.
This oil was $50 for a 5 qt jug just a few months ago.
This oil is a steal at $20.
I have 10 jugs on the shelf in my garage...:smile:

Uhhhh, It's right on your oil filler cap "use only Mobil1". Or, does it say "use Mobil1"?

Back in the day when GM didn't realize about future longterm 'coking' problems
with the intake valves, & didn't know what 'LSPI' was all about.

LSPI, 'super-knock', is real, & is destroying DI/turbo engines...:twothumbs:

I remember when 'bacon', & 'lard' were good for you...:nuts:

Some guys still don't believe in full synthetic oil, or AGM batteries...:nuts:

I have always used Pennzoil Platinum & Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil in my buggy since it was new...:twothumbs:
I've never had to add oil between oil changes, & I can run 12.3s at the track all day, & I drive it year round, even in Pittsburgh winters...:twothumbs:
I have also used a 50/50 mix of E85 & gasoline in my buggy since new, (good for 30 horsepower alone)...:twothumbs:
36K miles on it now, & I still drive it like I stole-it...:roflol:

Not a believer in synthetic oil here - I've been through the frustration of switching to synthetic in my 2006/2.4l after driving it for a couple of years, and found it DRANK synthetic like it was going out of style. Switched back to conventional after it used over a litre in less than 3000km if I remember right - and it took a couple of changes for the oil consumption to return to normal - ie: 1/4 litre, if that, between 7000/8000 km oil changes.

Also tried synthetic in my Goldwing - highly recommended to get rid of the clunks in the transmission gear changes - that too did not help at all. Back to conventional oil in it ever since.


So if you believe in Synthetic only - good for you - but it ain't no miracle - it won't get rid of warts. :lol:

Gregg, though he is an lt, has been running just fine on all different kinds of full synthetic oil. And if his big brothers (spoiler!) 6.2 liter supercharged direct injection engine runs fine on the same oil I think the lnf is fine. From mobil 1 to pennzoil ultra platinum they generally are all the same. The harder you drive the more often you need to change. Changing at the correct intervals is critical for the health of charge systems and vvt.

I know this from Amsoil but it explains LSPI :
Protect your turbo engine from LSPI (Super Knock)
Here's something if you want to explore more about it:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...micals_on_LSPI

Whopper,

Just curious what Conventional Oil you switched back to ??

As I recall you change @ 3000 miles. So do I.

What engine are you currently driving.

Silverfox

Hey there Silverfox :thumb: - hope all is well with you since your move off the coast.

I can't remember what conventional oil I changed back to - I generally used Quaker State, or Pennzoil back then in that 2.4L.

Currently? Well back in about February this year I traded the HHR in on a new 2017 Kia Sportage, so have been HHR poor since then. The HHR got to be a money pit in its last few months, and I just could not fix it fast enough - fix one thing, and two more issues would crop up, and just could not deal with it anymore.

But lovin the Sportage and not having to do any wrenching.

Okay, I tried. Those scientific documents are a bit over my head, as I'm sure they will be for most folks. Bottom line is that the valve coking is not the only problem. The turbocharged DI engine is also susceptible to carbon deposits in the combustion chambers(the same gunk that is sticking to the valves). This can cause this "super-knock", which is damaging to engines.

This Euro L(Dexos2) claims to be purer, containing fewer particulates, than Dexos1. Which leads to cleaner combustion chambers(and valves), helping to prevent "super-knock".

Randy
Using oil's that have less Calcium in them helps with the problem. So as 2005HHR say's, he likes Pennzoil Ultra Euro for that reason, that's I'm getting out of it. I would like to see a table of it vs. Moble 1.
I haven't explored it yet but going to the forum "Bob's the oil guy" talks a lot about oils ,besides other things.

One thing I noticed with my Kia Sportages is that they have a fuel injector cleaner additive in the maintenance schedule - I gather due to the Direct Injection of the engines. But they recommend just a regular conventional oil - so will be interesting to see how that works out for me, and to see if they start to recommend a synthetic oil at some point in the future.

My personal experience is that Mobil1 disappears at an alarming rate but some others don't. Seems to be a signal to change because it is fine for about 6,000 miles.



Does GM supply Mobil1 to people who own Corvette Engines Built at Wixom since it is REQUIRED?

Nope you gotta buy all your own oil of your choosing unless you like AC Delco oil then go to the dealer! Pennzoil in the 6.2 is confirmed not to blow it up. also, no matter what oil I put in Gregg, he eats half a quarter over 8-9000 miles. . Unless my cheap oil pan is inaccurate

Donbrew, I think you are confusing what you read or heard related to the "REQUIRED" use of Mobil 1 in Corvettes.

The consumer is not required to use Mobile 1, although many do. Some use a Dexos listed synthetic that still meets GM's recommendations.

However, the dealer is required to use Mobile 1 as an obligation to their franchise, to meet the terms of the warranty period AND because GM reimburses the dealer to the VALUE of the Mobile 1( this is for vehicles that do call for a "full synthetic" as a requirement) GM has sent out written directives to this, to which I think the confusion exists (dealers, because of scales of economy, have in some instances purchased bulk oils that, as a minimum, meet the dexos requirement but cost far less than the Mobile 1).

No, GM quote "Corvette Engines Built at Wixom REQUIRE mobil1". Those are special hand built engines, not regular lot cars. You used to be able to build your own engine in the factory.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/...dPdf?id=177600

I just started getting those $10 rebate checks from Pennzoil for buying a 5 quart jug of the new Euro L oil...:twothumbs:

You need to buy these jugs by the end of the year to get $10 off of any Pennzoil full synthetic oil...:twothumbs:

OK bought the Euro oil went on rebate site and it doesn't list that oil.
There are options, so I selected the second one that's for Pennzoil Platinum@ Full Synthectic.
Used the log on site, took a picture of the receipt, attached it to the form and sent it out.
It will take 8 weeks to see a rebate check if they except Euro L.
The other thing that got me is when I sent it I got a verification of it from Shell oil.
Yet when you open that address it's a dead end.
www.shellrebatecenter.com

Update:
Just got my rebate check 1/9/18 for $10.
"Should have had a V8" and bought more just like at the start of this post.

I checked this oil, and didn't see it saying that it meets 4718m performance requirements. I am not an oil guru. But owner manual calls for that specs. Any idea?

Does regular Mobil 1 meet that spec ??

Yes, it does. I only found 4 oils with 4718m specs. Mobil1, Castrol titanium, red line full synthetic, amsoil signature series. But than again, maybe I am missing something .

That is a really old spec, replaced by Dexos1 in, I think, 2011. This is Dexos2, which exceeds Dexos1.

do you know why mobil1 still puts dexos1 and 4718 separately in approved requirements on the bottle than? They just should leave dexos1.

http://www.hankgraffbgc.com/Dexos1.pdf

The GM 4718M specification was phased out, (replaced), in 2010...
Dexos1 replaced 4718M...
Dexos2 has replaced Dexos1...

dexos®

Dexos2 helps to prevent DI 'coking', which is a BIG problem with our LNF engine

This Pennzoil Platinum Euro L is a Dexos2 oil...

Probably marketing. Many owner manuals(like ours) specify one or the other, so Mobil is smart to let us know that their oil is acceptable. Many people don't realize that the old specs are obsolete, and so they search out the few that have the spec they need on the bottle.

very interesting !! Thank you for the link. Didn't even know they phased out 4718.

and I am one of those people :D

Damn near every oil on the market, at least the top name brands, are Dexos approved.

But are they Dexos2 approved, & can you find Dexos2 on your local store shelfs...
Dexos2 is hard to find, & when you do find it, it is really expensive.

Except for the Pennzoil Platinum Euro L , which can be easily found at
your local Walmart for around $20 for a 5qt jug...:twothumbs:

Make sure it is Dexos2 Euro L , as they do make a plain Euro without the 'L'

For our ecotecs, I dont think it really matters too much.

It does in the Turbo DI Ecotec, like the LNF

In the L61 or LE5 not so much

I have to add, when I bought it from Walmart, it was $2 less for a 5qt jug than Mobil 1.
Price war? Maybe.

I thought that Dexos 2 is a euro oil suitable for otto and diesel. Dexos 1 is US suitable for otto only.

Maybe things changed since I remebered.

But 2 is a higher number than 1 so that makes it better. Should we spice things up and mention that Dexos 1 also has a Generation II spec? So whats better, Dexos 1 Gen II or Dexos 2!?!?!!?!

Neither, just that Dexos 2 has meets standards for EURO DIESEL ENGINES. Even the LNF is not as refined as we might believe, and would run just fine on any top quality synthetic.

Dave's point is that the purity of this oil could help slow the accumulation of gunk throughout the intake stream, especially on the back of the intake valves. It also deposits in the turbo, charge piping, intercooler, throttle body, intake manifold, and combustion chamber. It probably is not good for the cat converter either. So yes, this oil could help the engine run better, and last longer.

Please use ANY brand of oil meeting the Dexos2 specification...:twothumbs:

'Coking' of the intake valves is bad, really bad, & a Dexos2 spec oil WILL help prevent the deposits...

Everyone of you have to face this issue...:skull1:
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/08-1...k-pics-307071/
After reading all 3 pages of this thread, you will want to run out to Wallyworld to find a Dexos2 oil for your 'buggy'...:twothumbs:

Google, LNF intake valve coking , to view more info on this bad problem...