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-   -   This is the only oil that you should use in your HHR SS !!! (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-ss-45/only-oil-you-should-use-your-hhr-ss-59633/)

Silverfox 11-24-2017 09:55 AM


Originally Posted by whopper (Post 833536)
Not a believer in synthetic oil here - I've been through the frustration of switching to synthetic in my 2006/2.4l after driving it for a couple of years, and found it DRANK synthetic like it was going out of style. Switched back to conventional after it used over a litre in less than 3000km if I remember right - and it took a couple of changes for the oil consumption to return to normal - ie: 1/4 litre, if that, between 7000/8000 km oil changes.

Also tried synthetic in my Goldwing - highly recommended to get rid of the clunks in the transmission gear changes - that too did not help at all. Back to conventional oil in it ever since.


So if you believe in Synthetic only - good for you - but it ain't no miracle - it won't get rid of warts. :lol:


Whopper,

Just curious what Conventional Oil you switched back to ??

As I recall you change @ 3000 miles. So do I.

What engine are you currently driving.

Silverfox

whopper 11-24-2017 10:23 AM

Hey there Silverfox :thumb: - hope all is well with you since your move off the coast.

I can't remember what conventional oil I changed back to - I generally used Quaker State, or Pennzoil back then in that 2.4L.

Currently? Well back in about February this year I traded the HHR in on a new 2017 Kia Sportage, so have been HHR poor since then. The HHR got to be a money pit in its last few months, and I just could not fix it fast enough - fix one thing, and two more issues would crop up, and just could not deal with it anymore.

But lovin the Sportage and not having to do any wrenching.

RJ_RS_SS_350 11-24-2017 01:22 PM

Okay, I tried. Those scientific documents are a bit over my head, as I'm sure they will be for most folks. Bottom line is that the valve coking is not the only problem. The turbocharged DI engine is also susceptible to carbon deposits in the combustion chambers(the same gunk that is sticking to the valves). This can cause this "super-knock", which is damaging to engines.

This Euro L(Dexos2) claims to be purer, containing fewer particulates, than Dexos1. Which leads to cleaner combustion chambers(and valves), helping to prevent "super-knock".

Cat Man HHR 11-24-2017 03:09 PM

Randy
Using oil's that have less Calcium in them helps with the problem. So as 2005HHR say's, he likes Pennzoil Ultra Euro for that reason, that's I'm getting out of it. I would like to see a table of it vs. Moble 1.
I haven't explored it yet but going to the forum "Bob's the oil guy" talks a lot about oils ,besides other things.

whopper 11-24-2017 03:41 PM

One thing I noticed with my Kia Sportages is that they have a fuel injector cleaner additive in the maintenance schedule - I gather due to the Direct Injection of the engines. But they recommend just a regular conventional oil - so will be interesting to see how that works out for me, and to see if they start to recommend a synthetic oil at some point in the future.

donbrew 11-25-2017 11:04 AM

My personal experience is that Mobil1 disappears at an alarming rate but some others don't. Seems to be a signal to change because it is fine for about 6,000 miles.



Does GM supply Mobil1 to people who own Corvette Engines Built at Wixom since it is REQUIRED?

aradmahogany 11-25-2017 07:47 PM


Originally Posted by donbrew (Post 833661)
My personal experience is that Mobil1 disappears at an alarming rate but some others don't. Seems to be a signal to change because it is fine for about 6,000 miles.



Does GM supply Mobil1 to people who own Corvette Engines Built at Wixom since it is REQUIRED?

Nope you gotta buy all your own oil of your choosing unless you like AC Delco oil then go to the dealer! Pennzoil in the 6.2 is confirmed not to blow it up. also, no matter what oil I put in Gregg, he eats half a quarter over 8-9000 miles. . Unless my cheap oil pan is inaccurate

Snoopy 11-26-2017 01:40 PM

Donbrew, I think you are confusing what you read or heard related to the "REQUIRED" use of Mobil 1 in Corvettes.

The consumer is not required to use Mobile 1, although many do. Some use a Dexos listed synthetic that still meets GM's recommendations.

However, the dealer is required to use Mobile 1 as an obligation to their franchise, to meet the terms of the warranty period AND because GM reimburses the dealer to the VALUE of the Mobile 1( this is for vehicles that do call for a "full synthetic" as a requirement) GM has sent out written directives to this, to which I think the confusion exists (dealers, because of scales of economy, have in some instances purchased bulk oils that, as a minimum, meet the dexos requirement but cost far less than the Mobile 1).

donbrew 11-26-2017 02:10 PM

No, GM quote "Corvette Engines Built at Wixom REQUIRE mobil1". Those are special hand built engines, not regular lot cars. You used to be able to build your own engine in the factory.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/...dPdf?id=177600

2005HHRauto 12-16-2017 02:38 PM


Originally Posted by Cat Man HHR (Post 833524)
Maybe I'm missing something. Where in any of the articles does it say this oil is the best? We all know of the choking problem. How to use a spray or R&I the intake to clean the back side of the valves.
The $2 rebate doesn't list this oil either.
$2 Per Quart Rebate Offer | United States
Just my 2 cents.

I just started getting those $10 rebate checks from Pennzoil for buying a 5 quart jug of the new Euro L oil...:twothumbs:

You need to buy these jugs by the end of the year to get $10 off of any Pennzoil full synthetic oil...:twothumbs:


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