Does anyone have some knowledge of the rear SS caliper's E-brake mechanism? I replaced the caliper a few years ago. It was a reman ACDelco caliper. I recently noticed the emergency brake function is sticky. No it's not the cable. I disconnected the cable and found that the cable moves perfectly fine. Because the caliper isn't that old, I'd like to see if I can free it up. But I have never dismantled a caliper with an integral E-brake. Is the E-brake portion separate from the main hydraulic portion? Do I need to take the caliper off the car or can I free up the E-brake mechanism while still attached to the hydraulic brake system? (I hate bleeding brakes, so I'd like to avoid that if possible)

 

Both sides?
Were they still locked up when you removed the cable?
If they have been dragging look at the pads, they are probably worn out.
I think the relevant test is to lift the rear and yank the cable downward; it should have a "moderate" tension.

My understanding of the rear disc system is when you pull the lever the piston is turned in, when released that spring rotates it back out. No hydraulics involved.
The brakes operate by the piston rotating in a threaded cylinder.

Might be you need to adjust the lever.

When you replaced them did you reinstall #3?

 

See the big spring on the ebrake lever ? Make sure it’s not broken or has lost it’s tension. If the spring is good, I suggest a good spray of lube like WD40 to see if it will free it up.
Last resort would be to tear the caliper apart.

 

No. The driver's side is the problem; that caliper was replaced a few years ago. Passenger side works fine and is still the original caliper.

Neither driver or passenger caliper is locked up, at least in terms of the hydraulic side of the system. Both work properly with the brake pedal. It's only the E-brake function that isn't working. It refuses to clamp down on the rotor when I yank the handle in the cabin.

Cable moves fine when disconnected from the caliper. It holds tension and moves coincident with the handle inside the cabin. If I manually grab the caliper's E-brake lever, it won't budge.

I believe you are correct. That is my understanding of the E-brake mechanism too. I am inquiring if that can be freed up without taking the whole caliper off the car and/or dismantling the caliper.

Yes, #3 is installed and holding the cable properly.

The spring is intact. I already tried the WD40 approach on several occasions. It didn't help.

I'm curious if anyone has torn apart the caliper. Does it need completely dismantled to inspect the E-brake mechanism?

 

I’ve never taken a rear caliper apart, just bought a new or reman

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...b,caliper,1704

 

I would not recommend WD-40 for this application as it not a lubricant.
Try PB Blaster or some other brand.

 

WD40 was just suggested as a spray to see if he could get it to loosen up. PB blaster may work if it’s rusted or corroded. PB blaster would not be a choice as a permanent lube.

 

Do yourself a favor and replace it.

 

If you want to lube it, take it apart and apply white grease lithium very sparingly, spraying oil around brakes is likely to get it on the rotor and then the pads which really don't want to be lubricated

 

I meant to yank on the cable while it is attached to the brake an parking brake off. If it does not have enough slack it won't disengage.
You can adjust them individually. Since it is the one replaced I can imagine there could be a difference.

As usual, the Mark IV/210-51 organic light sensor is the best diagnostic tool. Lay on the ground and look at the mechanism while your beautiful assistant operates the lever.