I have an '09 SS. Stock engine, stock turbo, stock everything. Has anybody disassembled the turbo to install new seals? If so, can you share information about the assembly/disassembly procedure? Torque specs? Location to buy new seals?

Thanks in advance!
M Ridzon

 

Update: Check out xsboostturbochargers.com/
I just called them. They sell rebuild kits for the stock K04 turbo for <$100. There is no real magic to tearing it apart and rebuilding it; i.e., pretty easy. However, the shaft compressor nut is REVERSE THREAD. Therefore, be very careful not to try and loosen it like a normal nut, when you'd be unknowingly tightening it and thus snap the shaft. No torque specs to be concerned with, except they tighten the compressor nut back to 5-6 N-m (44-53 in-lb) with a dab of Loctite on the threads. They do not have a picture of the kit online, but said this one here is almost the same, just to give an example.

They said that if you tear it apart and find excess wear on the blades, journal bearing, thrust bearing, etc. they sell complete drop-in center cartridges for <$400 (still much cheaper than a complete turbo). Basically, it's the center section with a new shaft, bearing(s), and blades. That is, you retain your old housings (exhaust and compressor), and bypass valve, and merely bolt them onto this new center cartridge.

So if anybody strolls here looking for info to rebuild their stock turbo, maybe this information will be useful. Cheers!

 

And another update just in case someone strolls along looking to work on their turbo:
Also check out: RPM Motorsports in Tempe, AZ. I just talked to them. They do not sell rebuild kits, but do sell new center cartridges for around $200. They also said it is easy to tear them apart. C-Clamp holds one housing on. Four small bolts holds the other housing on. No torque specs to really be concerned about when re-assembling. Just use common sense about the size of the bolt and the material you're bolting to; get things snug and tight, but don't get crazy!

 

 

Any tips for removing the turbine housing from the center cartridge w/o busting anything? It seems mine is seized on pretty good.

 

Update: I reached out to the company (Turbo Lab of America) that sold me their turbo rebuild kit. It turns out the "hot wrench" (aka: torch) will do the trick when removing the turbine housing from the center cartridge. Apply a modest amount of heat around the flange and it should separate fairly easily. The exhaust gunk buildup in the flange causes the seizing, but loosens with a little heat. And since the housing runs hundreds of degrees during normal operation, a little heat from the torch doesn't hurt a thing. Note, there is a small dowel pin in the flange that aligns the turbine housing w/the center cartridge. So you'll want to pull them apart straight to preserve that pin, as well as the turbine blades.

 

Thanks for all the information. What are the torque numbers for all the bolts in this rebuild?

 

I checked with some "expert turbo" sources (i.e., turbo rebuild shops). It turns out, the only one you want to be concerned with is the compressor shaft nut. But the spec (44-53 in-lb) is somewhat irrelevant for a rebuild, and here's why...
The shaft spins at a very high RPM, thus it is precision balanced during manufacturing. The balancing includes the nuts on the ends. As such, you need to grab a small punch before disassembly and lightly punch-mark the compressor wheel, shaft, and nut before disassembly. This way, you can re-assemble later, aligning them, thus maintaining the balance. I'm told that when you do it this way, the resulting torque on the shaft nut is "within spec ranges." You'll want to put a dab of Loctite on the threads before assembly.

With regard to removing the shaft and wheels, all of the information I've found/viewed online, shows folks removing the compressor nut, not the turbine nut (i.e., leave the turbine nut alone). Removing the compressor shaft nut (instead of the turbine nut) is necessary to remove the compressor housing backing plate that mates to the bearing housing. Once the compressor nut is off, you can wiggle the compressor wheel off and remove the shaft entirely.

And the compressor shaft thread is left-hand thread, so don't inadvertently try to loosen it like a right-hand thread and thus snap the shaft off. Note that the shaft diameter is quite small (~1/8" thread diameter), so be gentle. You'll find that it's not super tight to begin with, so you'll not need much elbow grease.

Also before removing the compressor housing, be sure to punch mark the compressor housing to the center bearing housing so you can re-assemble later and get the correct rotational alignment. (the turbine housing is aligned with the aforementioned dowel pin, so it's a moot point).

As for the other bolts on the turbo, I'm told that you just want to "snug 'em up." There are 4 small bolts that hold the compressor housing on. There is a V-band clamp that holds the turbine housing on. There are a few more small bolts that hold the wastegate and bypass valve on. Their all small bolts, so use judgment and common sense about tightening them. Their precise torque spec is not vital.

Hope this helps!

P.S. This is the rebuild kit from Turbo Lab of America, on their eBay store: eBay Turbo Lab of America store. The penny-pinchers can find the Turbo Lab of America Amazon store and get the same kit for a couple bucks less (not sure why there's a small price difference between their eBay & Amazon stores though): .

P.P.S. Here are a couple YouTube videos I found exceptionally helpful:
Turbo Lab discusses the advantages of their rebuild kit Turbo Lab shows the rebuild of a turbo similar to ours Turbo Lab shows the rebuild of another turbo similar to ours An enthusiast shows the rebuild of their turbo using Turbo Lab's kit

 

Post pictures of your rebuild.
To separate the hot sides I use to use heat and then use PB Blaster to get into the separation joint to help break lose the two parts. Use a thin wedge at the split of the joint and work it around helping the two parts to separate. Worked on many Cat diesel engines where I use to replace the turbo cartridge (a.k.a. center section).
Before just being a parts changer on these engines I use to rebuild those. Balancing the two wheels and shaft is mandatory.

 

Here are the pictures from my turbo rebuild.









(to be continued...)