Yes it's a 2.4 and the code was p0014 it said exhausted B do I changed it yesterday and it still does the same thing

What's the code now?

My intake failed immediately after I fixed the exhaust.

Mass air flow and it was somthing else fail too I gave up lastnight I worked on it late today when I get off I will locate and change the air filter and maybe clean the throttle body I'm really lost on this one. When I start the car the t/c light is on I put it in reverse the light goes out but it still bangs in gear when I put it in drive it comes back on and it bangs if I reset with the computer the car stalls but it starts right up should I change the intake cam solenoid too

Well you have to be interested enough to help us help you. Give us ALL of the details. The codes will tell you what is wrong, don't throw parts at the problem blindly.

The search tool at top center of every page here will help you find how to do most everything on your HHR.

Ok Thankyou when I get home I will put the computer on it to get the exact code

and while getting the code(s), do a quick check on the connection for the MAF (the connector on the intake tube)

Ok I will thanks whopper thanks guys

Hello guys so I changed both exhaust and intake cam solenoid and the light went right out the banging stopped do when I changed just the exhaust cam solenoid it banged today I changed the intake and it took care of the issue thanks again guys I would recommend changing both at the same time it cost me $84 for both

We always recommend change em both, while you've got your sleeves rolled up.

Got my GM solenoids in last friday. Both seem to be exactly the same, grey top, and black top, just wandering what the $2.32 difference is? Not that I care, just wandering? Amazon, $67.43.

Stopped by AutoZone last week, ask the guy about them, he said 'what's that? Nothing, never mind, forget I walked in. But, That's typical of AZ, I just want to know how the hell, their stock, sells for more than Apple?

I've never figured out why the left and right struts are different prices. In short it's a matter of manufacturing cost accounting.

Possibly internal parts are different for the intake than the exhaust.
Or one sells more then the other!

Thanks for this post!
Recently bought a HHR LT (2006) with only 53k on the odometer, soon thereafter the DIC/MIL/CEL light came on and she started shifting extremely hard. I read the code and sure enough it was the P0010.
I went online and picked up the GM part # 12655420 as you cited. I wish everything were this easy!
I'm still tracing P0171/P0174 on my Ford explorer months later.
As least the HHR is running fine. 4/2016

Cool!!! Glad it is fixed. and yeah, sure is a lot easier than it looks.

"I'm still tracing P0171/P0174 on my Ford explorer months later."

Vacuum leak somewhere between the throttle body and the first O2 sensor. Like the purge valve is stuck open.

http://www.autocodes.com/p0171_ford.html

I bought my HHR in Sept. of 2013 with 135K and THAT SAME NIGHT I got these codes. Makes me wonder how many people might have traded their HHR in because they thought or were told it was a major issue/repair. Seems to be very common for people to have these codes pop up shortly after purchase. Found it all too coincidental that I would have a T/C light (pending code) within hours of purchase. The car didn't actually throw a CEL at me until months later.

Can't find a vacuum leak and almost embarrassed to name everything I've replaced, including the injectors. Are you thinking IAC is clogged (I've replaced the EGR w/the 2 tubes). This is the '98 V6 245 vin X pushrod model with only 150k on her. Love this suv but around 140k this came up & haven't been able to keep it off for long.

Have a look at the link. I don't know Fords, but something is letting air into the A/F mix.

This is the wrong thread on the wrong forum for this discussion.

codes P0013/P0014
 

I have been reading so much about these codes and what the problem could be. I had my oil changed about 2-3 weeks ago. When I had it changed, it had gone past the 0% oil life on my dash.
I have no symptoms, no chugging, no clicking, nothing, except for the engine light being on.
Could this be as simple as disconnecting the battery to reset the computer?
I'm sure that if P0013/P0014 is the problem, then the engine light would come on again.
I do not want to be taken advantage of by the mechanic just because my engine light is on.
Your comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

You didn't explicitly say that you downloaded the codes from the engine check light being on, and the codes were p0013/14. Please clarify - did you get the codes downloaded or, are you guessing/assuming?.

If you came here without knowing what the codes actually were - you cannot assume AT ALL that the engine check light is related to a problem with the solenoids. there are a zillion things that can cause the engine check light to come on.

You don't need a mechanic to determine what the codes are from the ECL - just go to most auto parts stores and they will hook up a code reader and download the codes for you for FREE!!! Do not disconnect the battery in the meantime, as that will erase the codes - it's important to get the codes as it might be a serious problem (and then again it might be something simple).

And make sure you get the actual 5 character code itself, not a description of what the code is, which quite often is inaccurate or misleading.

and shame ;) on you for letting your oil go past 0% - tisk tisk - doing it once or twice probably is not a big deal, but definitely do not let that become a regular thing.

Hey here is something that is interesting. Most know that the VVT is controlled by the solenoids, but some do not understand the importance of changing the oil and oil viscosity relative to the VVT operation. This short article from RockAuto provides a little insight. Unfortunately it didn't transfer a few related pictures as well.

Thought this is related to the thread topic so I posted it here. Feel free to move it wherever is necessary.


Those Ingenious VVT Systems


RockAuto

While peering under hoods at classic car shows, I frequently have or overhear conversations about how uncluttered engine compartments used to be in the good old days. Engine compartments from the 1980s look like the "good old days" when compared to those from the 1990s. Every new model year seems to include some new system or adds additional parts to an old system.

Tone down the nostalgia and take heart! There is one automotive system, exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) that not only has peaked in complexity but also has been disappearing from engines built in the last 10+ years. The EGR valve routes some exhaust into the combustion chamber to lower the temperature. This prevents engine knock and reduces nitrogen oxide emissions. After their debut in the early 1970s, EGR systems became steadily more complex as more motors, sensors, etc. were needed to fine tune the flow of exhaust back into the intake manifold.

Newer engines have variable valve timing (VVT) systems that adjust the opening and closing of the engine intake and exhaust valves. VVT helps engine designers improve performance, increase fuel efficiency, enable cylinder deactivation and do other good things including reducing emissions.

If VVT provides precise control over an engine's valves, then why not just use opening/closing of the intake and exhaust valves to retain some exhaust in the combustion chambers rather than tacking on a complex EGR system somewhere downstream in the exhaust system. Keep some exhaust in the combustion chamber by opening the exhaust valve later and/or opening the intake valve a little sooner. EGR valves were no longer needed and engine compartments became slightly less cluttered!

Typically the best way for a vehicle owner to protect one of those ingenious VVT systems is to religiously change the engine oil and use the oil viscosity (0W-20, 0W-40, etc.) recommended by the engine manufacturer. VVT systems typically use oil pressure for control. As can be seen in the photo of a Variable Timing Solenoid, small orifices and tight screens can easily be blocked by dirt or oil that is too thick (wrong viscosity).



Check to see if your engine has an EGR valve by looking under "Emission" in the RockAuto catalog. Mechanical and electromechanical VVT parts are found under "Engine."

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com

I went to AutoZone and the codes that came up were P0014 and P0013.
And I know shame on me for letting the oil go past its time...I will not let that happen again...

I also want to thank you for your amazing and informative post. I'm "just a girl" ;) and though I've repaired belts on cars before, it has been with help - and frankly, I felt accomplished just knowing how to put in my own replacement bulbs for the brake lights, etc. This was a big one for me, but the instructions were so clear, I felt that it was worth making the effort.

Though I was only getting the error code on the one side, I purchased both so I could do them both at the same time. I don't own the tools needed to make this repair, but when I told them what I needed at Advanced Auto Parts, they just let me borrow their own tools. They looked really shocked at me, though..."You're going to do that? Yourself? .... HERE?" I said "Yep - I know what needs to be done, so I'm at least going to try. If it doesn't work out, it doesn't work out."

The most difficult part for me was figuring out how to get the engine cover off. It seemed that my setup was slightly different, but I was able to work my way around it. And I found something very interesting in my exploration. I had not been able to find my air filter in previous attempts, so when I had the car in the shop for a brake and rotor replacement, I asked them to find it and put a new one in. They said it was really hard to find, but they finally got it. And once I pulled that engine cover off (the filter is inside), I saw what a hard time they must have had with it, after all. My wooly hose - the air duct leading from outside the car to the engine had torn in half and "someone" had fed one end of the hose down inside the mouth of the other part of the hose to hide their mistake. The engine hood must have snapped loose with the wooly hose connected, and the person must have swung hard to the right with momentum and tore it.

For what it's worth, I should say - you can't get this type of item from a parts store around town - you have to get this part direct from GM - about $55 (or maybe from a junkyard). I needed something to hold it temporarily, though, and made a great patch using something they had available at Advanced Auto, which was not duct tape - but more like HVAC tape. It stuck to the wooly without pulling up, and allowed a tight seal, so the car could be driven for more than a week until the replacement came in. And that replacement is nothing more than one screw up by the engine, with a rubber end to fit snug onto the wall of the car.

The process of changing out the solenoids went fairly well. The hardest part for me was getting them dislodged - that took more time than anything else. I just had to be gentle and patient, but keep a firm grip and a steady hand. Definitely get yourself some canned air or something and blow that area out before you start removing the bad solenoids. I even had a dead cricket up in the pan.

I started at 7:30 PM, and it quickly got dark, so the guys were nice enough to bring out a light for me. Before long, I had about 6 guys standing around trying to ask me what I was doing, and how I did this, and that, and asking questions. The Manager at Advanced Auto was pretty happy to watch the "procedure" because he felt he would now know how to help someone if they came into the store and needed help with the same issue. It turned into a fun safari adventure. LOL

Anyway, I got everything done and cleaned up, and I knew they closed at 11 - and as I was driving away, I looked down and saw that it was ~12:20, and I felt awful for keeping them behind and being such a slowpoke. Then I thought "WAIT A MINUTE...I disconnected the battery." I looked at my cell phone, and it was only 9:00 PM - so I got both swapped out in 90 minutes, and had NO idea what I was doing.

I wanted to put this out there for anyone feeling under-confident (especially women who don't work on cars!) Get your hands dirty! Well, actually, I recommend you buy the latex gloves for the procedure - LOL - no, but seriously. Try these things, and it only builds confidence. I can thank Whopper for mine. :) Meg

Too bad you went through all of those trial, obviously, before you this forum and the SEARCH tool.

The air filter and the hose are well covered here. A roll of duct tape can repair the hose a lot cheaper than a new part.

Ok - those codes definitely point to the intake and exhaust solenoids. It might be a one-time thing if this is the only time it happened for you. One-time thing: the codes can also be generated by dirty oil apparently, and your oil/filter change might have cleared that issue up now that you have fresh clean oil.

So, if it has only happened the once - if it was me, I'd drive it and if the codes come back again, then consider switching the solenoids out.

Findingmeg - good job - 90 minutes is pretty good considering it was a parking lot job. Well done - now go wash your hands. ;)

I think that is what I am going to do. It is a one-time thing...and if the codes do come back I will definitely change them out. After reading on this site, I will be changing out both at the same time...
thank you for your input...

Almost missed it - good find Snoopy on that article in post 621. I think we have had a couple people that encountered solenoid issues after letting their oil-life run down to or past Zero.

and it also reinforces the usage of the manufactures approved oil viscosity.

So people, keep current on your oil changes, and make sure you are using the right oil as per your owners manual.

OMG.

Don't ask about oil change intervals in this all ready way too long thread. And not so soon after whopper changed his oil.

Use the SEARCH, I bet you will get at least 1,000,000 opinions, in 1,000 threads.

Basically: why do you think GM included the Oil Life Monitor?

Please people don't be answering this here. It is just the wrong place!

After replacing these in April, 2014...my CEL came on and my code scanner again points to P0014. Thinking it may have shortened their lifespan due to my use of 10w-30 during these Texas summers. Gonna change them again & run only 5w-30...hopefully they'll last longer this time. :sad:

Do you understand what the oil viscosity numbers mean?

It does not make any sense running 10W-30 instead of 5W-30 in hot weather. The first number is the viscosity at cold start, the second is at hot temp.

Yes, I do. Seems to make sense to me (& many others), higher viscosity when cold equates to thicker oil upon startup. This is a common practice in hot climates, like TX. After all, startup can be one of the most demanding times for any motor.

However, since there a previous posts advising GM Mechs state the thicker oil can cause codes/failure, I am going to refrain from it & use 5w-30 going forward.

Why would you need thicker oil on start? You want less oil flow on cold starts? You seem to be saying that in extremely cold climates one should use 20w-30, because the thicker the oil at cold start the better? Forget the crankshaft in the sump for the moment.

The engineers base the viscosity on the flow, modern engines have smaller journals than the old flat heads. The thicker the oil is the less flow, you might as well dry start on purpose.

I think you may be listening to a really old timey mechanics from the single weight days. This is the 21st century.

There is a difference between the old 10-30 and the new 10w-30 specifications.

When it comes to the VVT valves the lower weight is essential to operation. Just to keep this germane.

As this is the how-to section, and this how-to article has been documented to death with instructions, tips and hints, we are closing this thread, as it has started to turn into a discussion thread, often hijacking it's intent.

If you have a question relating to the p0010/14 codes and the actuator replacement, feel free to post in another of the forums, such as the Problem one.

I'll try and keep the initial post updated with any changed part numbers etc.