Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement (w. pics) - P0010/11 P0013/14
 

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[SIZE="6"]IF YOU HAVE ENCOUNTERED THE T/C AND OR ENGINE CHECK LIGHT ON BE AWARE THIS VERY LIKELY WILL NOT BE THE SOLUTION TO YOUR PROBLEM! There are several other components that can cause hard shifting other than the solenoids.[/SIZE]

[SIZE="4"]Replacing these solenoids is only recommended when you have downloaded the following CEL codes:
P0010/11 which refers to the INTAKE solenoid
P0013/14 which refers to the EXHAUST solenoid[/SIZE]
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[SIZE="5"]Here is a description of what is involved in the replacing of the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoids on a 2.4L 2006 HHR (also applies with possible variations as necessary to the 2.0 Turbo in the SS, and the 2.2 with VVT, but not the early 2.2's that did not come with VVT). [/SIZE]



[SIZE="4"]PART NUMBERS As of March 2013:[/SIZE] (still valid as far as I know, as of Aug 24, 2014 - as confirmed by member John 11)
Here is a list from the Oldest to Newest GM Part numbers for the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valves:
------------------------------
Intake 12628347 = 12646783 = 12655420 = 12679099
Exhaust 12628348 = 12646784 = 12655421 = 12679100

Dorman Part Numbers: (***note: one member in Aug 2014 reported the connector at the top of the Intake solenoid was not compatible with the harness on his HHR)
917-216 for exhaust
917-215 for intake

** check the last few pages of this thread for any further updated part numbers in case this has not been updated
** some suppliers may refer to the solenoids as a "Variable Timing Solenoid" - (tip from willbratz )




NOTE #1: they are SOLENOIDS, not "sensors"!!!! they are two different things!! Several members have purchased sensors in error as advised by an auto parts store who mis-interpret the CEL diagnostic codes

NOTE #2: if you have not downloaded the CEL codes, please do so. If you have come to this posting looking for solutions to hard shifting of the transmission, be aware that there are several other components that can cause hard shifting other than the solenoids. Downloading the CEL codes will clarify where the problem is actually sourced from.


Time: 45 minutes (max.)

Tools used: screwdriver, ratchet with 6 inch extension and 10MM deep socket, small pair of needle-nose vice grips


1a) disconnect the NEGATIVE post on the car's battery (it is in the trunk) - do NOT disconnect the positive post, nor short out the negative post to the positive post - you can get seriously hurt otherwise.

1b) as the air box needs to be removed to get to the solenoids, start with undoing the MAP sensor which is located under the front leading edge of the airbox (press down on the top of the clip to release the lock, and pull gently) - lay the connector aside in a protected spot
Here is a picture of the connector, just to the right of the intake plumbing
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs1.JPG


2) loosen the intake plumbing from the front of the airbox, by loosing the screw holding the clamp shown in the above picture (at the 7 o'clock position from the MAP sensor)

3) gently work and pull the now loosened pipe free of the airbox (shown here with airbox removed)
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs2.JPG


4) the airbox is held in place with two grommets at the back of the airbox and one in the front left side next to the rad fill cap. Each grommet snaps onto a short mounting bolt. I prefer to remove the front mount first as it seems more delicate and prone to breaking accidently: you can see the mounting point just to the left of the cap - grab the shaft of the mount from the airbox and pull it free by lifting straight up about an inch or so. Do NOT attempt to pull up on the whole airbox yet. (keep reading)
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs3.JPG


This is a shot of the grommet mounting bolt with the airbox removed:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs4.jpg


Disconnect the rear of the airbox by lifting up on the rearside to free it from the grommets. This is what the grommet mounting posts and mounting bracket look like with the airbox removed:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs5.jpg

Note: the grommets that hold the airbox often deteriorate over time, and may not be reusable. Gm calls this part an "Insulator". It's part #12563914, and it's current list is $3.47 as of July 2012 according to one member here.

5) The airbox should now be free of the mounting grommets, the intake plumbing and the MAP sensor, BUT will still be connected to the air intake pipe at the back left side of the airbox - loosen it's clamp and disconnect the pipe from the airbox.
Shot of the intake pipe attached to the airbox - note the clamps screw faces DOWN - Helpful hint: reverse the clamp so the screw is on top to make it easier to disconnect and reconnect with the airbox in place
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs6.jpg


6) The top of the engine with the airbox removed should now look like this:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs7.jpg

Note: the solenoids are on the left side right next to the plug coil pack

7) Remove the connectors at the top of the solenoids (remove them both to prevent accidents) by pulling up on the grey clip until you can work a small screw driver between it and the black lock and remove the grey clip - now you can depress the black lock mechanism to free the connector from the top of the solenoid. (see post #397 in this thread for HHR4dad's pictures showing the clip removal using a small screwdriver - be careful, as some people have used the wrong process and broken the clip)

Kudos to member Slide_Rite, who gave this suggestion for removing the clips, using the nozzle from a can of WD-40 as shown in this picture:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil.../7/_220396.jpg


8) Use compressed air to remove any dirt/debris collected around the base of the solenoids.
NOTE: the markings on the top of the valve cover to the left of the solenoids which indicates the location of the Intake and Exhaust solenoids

Close-up shot of the immediate area:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs8.jpg


9) Once the area is clean, use a 10mm deep socket to remove the mounting bolt for the solenoid to be replaced. Warning: if you are replacing both solenoids, replace them one at a time to lessen the chance of dropping something down into the mounting holes.
Once the bolt is removed, you should be able to rotate/twist the solenoid SLIGHTLY to loosen it, then pull it straight up and out of the engine. I used a small pair of needle-nose vise-grips to gently get a grip on the metal part of the solenoid and carefully removed it. If you do the same, be careful not to crush the solenoid.

10) Now the solenoid is removed, inspect the cavity and remove any dirt debris that might have "accidently" dropped in - apply some oil to the shaft and o-ring of the new solenoid, and carefully insert it into the engine. Once it is properly in place you will have to give it a downward push to get it to snap into position with the o-ring. Install the retaining bolt and snug it down(sorry, I don't know the torque value - but it is probably about 7-9 ft/lbs my guess)
Edit: Correct torque spec is 89 lb in or 10nm
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/files/4/8/6/5/cs9.jpg


11) Now do the same with the other solenoid to replace it - remove mounting bolt/pull the solenoid, oil and reinsert the new solenoid

12) re-attach the electrical connectors to the top of the solenoids (make sure you use the correct connector for each one)

13) put a dab of silicone grease on the three mounting studs for the airbox, as well as on the grommets on the airbox - reinstall the airbox.

14) reattach the air intake hose at the back of the airbox and tighten the clamp

15) reattach the pipe to the front of the airbox, and tighten the clamp

16) reattach the MAP sensor to the front bottom side of the airbox.

17) reconnect the negative post on the battery

16) Almost done - now please >>> double-check the MAP sensor to make sure it is securely plugged into the front bottom side of the airbox

Nice work! :bow:

It's a pleasure ChevyMgr - and thanks for posting the pictures properly and embedding them - looks much better.
Cheers

Excellent write up & pics... :thumb:

Thank you - hopefully someone will get some helpful info from the write-up..

It's been a month now, and the initial problems with the hard shifting, engine check light, and codes being thrown are all gone.

However the car is in the body shop now since a tree fell on it last weekend. LOL - all one can do is laugh. :lol:

mines has the same problem and i did what it said here and i still haved i did this today do i have to wait 4 the computer to reset or what thanks

What were the codes generated by the Engine check light initially? I'm not exactly positive, but I suspect that your Engine Check light is still on? If so, you will need to reset the codes being generated. You can do that by disconnecting the battery for a minute or two and connecting it back up. That will reset the codes/lights and restore the proper operation of the transmission shifting etc.. If that does not cure it, you need to plug in a diagnostic tester to determine what the current code(s) are being generated, and start troubleshooting from there.

Fixed - YEAH!!!
 

I had P0011 error code and the CEL and T/C lights on. Replaced both intake and exhaust solenoids and now the problem is gonna and has been for 2 weeks. The parts together cost about $100 and an hour worth of my time. Thanks for the detailed procedure that made the replacement quicker.

Glad it helped out. Now get out there and drive!!! :nuts:

Help!!
 

just joined this forum and have the TC and CEL problem and need to change the selinoids, where can I get those parts?!?! (great write up by the way!!)

You can grab them from the dealer - they were ~$75 each here in Canada -
12628348 - Exhaust cam solenoid
12628347 - Intake cam solenoid

One of them was in-stock, the other was delivered the next morning to the dealer - so I gather they are a commonly available part. The code you pull down from the CEL, will tell you which solenoid needs replacing (I replaced both of them as I figured, what the heck :roll: if I am gonna tear it apart for one, I'll replace them both).

Good luck

Thanks!
 

I ordered from a website called gmpartsdirect.com using that part number and it was $81 with shipping, hopefully will work. Will post when I get the parts and put them in.

Good stuff. Keep us posted.

engine and tc lite on
 

which solenoid is the exhaust? my code p0014 and tc light are on i used a code changer at advance auto to turn them off. i want to do the switch so they stay off. not sure which is exhaust and intake

Intake is in the front; exhaust in the rear. :cool:

thanks for the help, the hard shifting will go away? also the tc lite will go out? when i replace the 2 solenoids?

Thank You. Thank You. Thank You. That made my day. I have a much better understanding of the critter now and might save a few hundred on the fix. Good stuff with pictures and instructions.

Most helpful!
 

Thanks to Whopper and all who posted on this subject. I paid the dealer to replace the first solenoid then I read all about it here and ordered the other one and fixed it myself. Car runs great and no lights so far! Thanks again for the detailed how to. It really did help.:thumb:

My TC light came on yesterday and was off this morning and on again today leaving work and this time the engine light came on as well.

I know it is time for an oil change (25%), so will have the dealer have a look see for me -- it did seem to run a little rougher and felt like it "pulled" when the gears changed (have an automatic) -- I assume that is not normal. :)

I drove him home from work, 35 miles on the freeway and he seemed as smooth as ever otherwise...I've NEVER had problems in almost 3 years, so am a little concerned (at 32K now).

I'll have them check the solenoid thingy.
Thanks!

@

Good luck. and yeah sounds like it might be the "solenoid thingy"! :) Hopefully they will be able to retrieve codes that clarify the problem.

Cheers

So I have been reading forums and it always seems that everyone is getting some type of CEL that is helping them determine the issue that they are having. My car on the other hand is not giving me any CEL's, the only thing I get is the t/c light and hard shifting. I think way back in the day when this first started I may have had a CEL or maybe once the abs light was on but that was probably over a year ago and the codes have been cleared many times over since then. So now all I get is the t/c light and no CEL's at all. Anyone got any ideas to what I should try to check?

I''d still suspect it is one of the solenoids - when I had the problems with my car, the T/C light would often come on, accompanied with the hard shifting, but quite often NO CEL at all. Shutting the car off and restarting, would often reset everything back to normal (but not always - LOL - dang thing). I believe the CEL will only come on if a certain number of incidents/conditions with a particular problem are met. Your CEL may not be lit, as you have not hit that required number of incidents/conditions.

If I remember right, my CEL would come on maybe a quarter of the time that the car was having problems with T/C light and hard shifting.


If the car is under warranty, I'd take it into the dealer and see if they can retrieve some codes. If not under warranty, take it to the dealer or to a parts store where they do code readings for free (is it Autozone down US-way?).

the parts aren't that super expensive so you may want to consider replacing them "on-spec".

Best of luck.

I guess I can try replacing the two solenoids, but my friend has a scanner and no codes are showing up at all. I just have been really short on money, hence why I haven't taken this thing in to the dealership. Thanks for the help.

I changed mine several months ago thanks to whopper it took only about 20 minutes parts cost $110.00 no problums since.

It could be, that if most of your trips are short ones, the CEL doesn't get a chance to fully establish a code for display. I believe that the CEL needs a specific set of circumstances over a period of time and drive-cycles to capture and retain a code.

One thing to consider - I thought I saw a post or two here about the hard-shifting causing broken motor mounts - but then again I might be mistaken about this. :D

If you had a friend with an HHR, you could try swapping parts to see if the problem moves to your friends car - and if it does, then quickly pack up and move to a different town!! :roflol:

Good luck tho'.

Replaced the two solenoids, all good so far.
 

Thanks to this "how to" and all the info here in the forum :twothumbs:, I felt confident enough to tackle this job myself.

I've ordered the two solenoids via an independent repair shop and paid only $76 total incl. tax!

Last Friday late afternoon, I went ahead and replaced the solenoids, cleared the check engine light and... ....have not seen neither the check engine nor the TC light lighting up every since! :nuts:

Awesome write up. I too received the TC light followed by the CEL this weekend. The code thrown indicated only that the motor was running lean; strangely enough my gas mileage has plummeted to ~12mpg city. Sounds like it could be the same problem, once again the forum has saved me a trip to the dealer.

Does anyone have the actual torque specs for the actuator bolts?

So I just installed the part and still have the issue, the only other code I was getting besides P0011 was P0106 which is Manifold absolute pressure. It could be possibly an issue with the actual CAM position sensor I guess, or the MAP sensor. I guess I will have to try both and see what happens. The CAM sensor however seems like a pain in the ass to install. Does anyone have an install walkthrough for the CAM position sensor?

Update: I haven't gotten the P0011 code since I installed the new cam actuator however, I am still getting the hard shifting and looks like I am constantly getting a P0106 error for the current error however the error is not going to the freeze frame. I am wondering if anyone else has had the same issues but getting the P0106 error instead. Think I may have to try replacing the MAP sensor since I already checked the voltage to the MAP sensor and that all passed. Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions?

So several weeks back my check engine light came on and the hard shifting started. When I checked codes came back P0013, P0014 and camshaft position sensor (forgot code#) So I replaced the camshaft position sensor and that didnt resolve. This was before I read this post so my dumb self took it to my local dealer, Landers McClarty in Huntsville, AL. When their "diagnosis" was that they'd have to open the engine cover and replace the actuator itself (as opposed to the sensor) at a tune of $715 I knew I was being raped. So upon further research, including this wonderful thread, I went to parts and bought both the intake and exhaust solenoids for $100 and replaced them myself within an hour's time. What do you know!...no more hard shifting!! So I technically saved $600 (really $500 because I paid the diagnostic fee--that's my fee for being dumb decision) but the hard evidence I have about that dealer is worth a lot more than that.

But although the hard shifting is resolved, the engine is running rough primarily at low-ends in low gears. No trouble code and it seems like a fuel-air mixure or ignition issue so my next step is to change the plugs. I suspect that by running it for a bit too long with bad actuator solenoid(s) it may have gunked up the plugs & stuff. Anybody experience this side too?

Whopper, thank you for a great write up. Let me suggest an enhancement to the procedure: First, disconnect the battery. Although I went through your procedure with no sparks flying or wrenches welded to my ring, it is a good safety habit to always reduce the electrical potential of the entire system to zero. As a side benefit, it will clear the error codes while the work is being done. Again, a thousand thanks for your outstanding work on this procedure.
Since the air box was off, I took the opportunity to put in a new air filter element too.

Good tip on disconnecting the battery - it may help those that have triggered the CEL, and the CEL does not go out on it's own once the solenoids are replaced.

And re air filter - I replaced mine at the same time too. :D

Added this as the first thing to do.

Thanks for the write up
 

I was having the TC and Check engine issue and got the exhaust cam codes on the reader. I found your posting and once I was able to track down the part, (had to get it from a GM dealer) I followed your instructions and replaced the part with no problem at all. Its been a week and no issue. It only cost me $55 for the part.

Thanks!!!:twothumbs:

Trouble lights...
 

I've had similar trouble light issues, and did a lot of research, finally being directed to this DIY.
To recap my problems, T/C light, hard shifting, check engine light. I even bought an ElmScan compact tool to read the codes. Cleared codes, cleaned MAF sensor and still ended up with the trouble lights.
So I have just now replaced both exh/int cam sensors. not a large investment and with this DIY, a very simple process.
My concern is the codes I was ending up with weren't the specific codes I've seen indicated here.
My codes have been: P0171 (lean fuel mixture), and P0300 (Random/multiple cylinder misfire detected). P0171 being the persistent code.
My dealer at one point told me I had uneven fuel flow indicating a bad injector. $440.00 to fix. I had not noticed any affect on performance except fuel mileage was somewhat diminished.
So to get to my point, I've got this great tool but I really don't have a clue as to how to take the information it can give me and do some diagnostics for my problems. Is there a reference I can use to compare the various readings I can get from my ScanTool for my HHR.
Any help would be appreciated. :thumb:

reading codesand fixing
 

you might want to try www.CanOBD2.com cost $9.99 gives all the info to fix and parts needed and the time to fix. I got this info from the scanner I bought, good luck.

Troubles continue..........
 

I actually followed your advise, cost went up to $14.99 but it still seemed like a worthwhile investment.
I'm STILL having code P0171, can't kick it. Hard shifting and all. I've been trying the Techron additive, did the Lucas product about a month ago, bottom line I still have a lean mixture detected. I'm thinking replacing the injectors is the solution. Anyone out there have a part number so I can do some web searching?

Easier to do a search for the part number - ie: http://www.racepages.com/parts/fuel_injector/hhr.html look for the AC DELCO ones

Port Orchard!!!! My brother-in-law down your way found a dead bear in the woods not far from you. He wasn't able to get the OBD-II codes from the bear tho' - left the code reader at home!! :)

Bear?
 

Hadn't heard about the bear.
Still getting the P0171 code and the hard shift symptoms. While searching for injector part number (I did find what I needed, good price, too) I was lead to a thread on this forum on TSB's by ChevyMngr.
My problem isn't new, TSB for this issue is 2 years old, cleaning or replacing the injectors won't solve the problem as the ECM also needs to be updated.
I have an appt. with my selling dealer with the hope that GM will assist on this. I'm way past warranty so I don't expect the world but any help at this point would be a plus.