Thank you thank you thank!!
 

Replaced both solenoids and presto!! NO hard shifting. I can't explain to you how happy I am. I live in Atlanta and drive through town every day and the hard shifting made my drive miserable in traffic. I have been to 2 dealerships and all they wanted to do is throw parts at it. I went back in after I fixed it and told them and they were floored. Thanks WHOOPER!!!

cambios bruscos
 

Hola tengo un HHR 2007 y hace los cambios muy bruscos y aparte se prende la luz mil y el foco de service traction, arroja el codigo P0011, que puedo hacer==???????
Saludos

¿Estás diciendo que está cambiando transmision duro?

Fernando,
Copiar y pegar mensajes a principios de este hilo en Google Translate para traducir del Inglés al Español. :twothumbs:

what kind of grease should I use?

for what?

Yo tengo un perro grande en mis pantalones.

Lo bueno es que tienen mucho espacio en los pantalones pequeños. * Sonrisa *

the post says to put grease on the o ring

ky.

really? we're not even going to answer my question?

I thought ChevyMgr just did......

Clean engine oil.

:( If you reread the post, it clearly said "oil", not grease. So, as ChevyMgr said just use a bit of oil, even if you dab it on off of the dipstick.

Thats only what the dealer uses when they fix it. :lol:

I replaced both solenoids, but the T/C light is still on.... what could I have done wrong?

A guy at AutoZone told me to put a little white silicon grease on the O-Ring only... was that bad advice?




Andy

Did you clear the codes by disconnecting the battery cable as suggested?
Or do you have a code reader to do that?

A LITTLE white silicon grease will be ok - oil would have been preferred, as the solenoids are in an oil environment. So don't worry about it.

If T/C light is still on, as Tikker noted - disconnect the battery for a few seconds (did you skip that as the very first step in the process?) - that should reset the system and clear the lit light. If it does not clear it, you have an additional problem somewhere.

Question: once you buttoned it back up, did the hard shifting clear ok?

Keep us updated eh? (Canadianism thrown in for good luck :) )

I did disconnect the battery before changing the solenoids....

The T/C light was off by the time I started the car a few hours later, but it came back on, and the hard shifting began again. I had the MAP sensor replaced last year, and just did both camshaft solenoids. What else could this be?

Andy

I noticed, while everything was apart, that my air filter is completely black.... will pick up a new one today... not sure if that's at all related though

Good on disconnecting the battery. At this point, I'd attach a code reader and see if any codes were generated. Run the codes by us here, and we'll see what we can come up with.

If it doesn't give any codes, I'd suggest having a dealer take a look at it.

I wouldn't think the air filter would be related, but sounds like it definitely needs replacement.

Oh, you are sure you used the replacement solenoids in the right place - the exhaust one for the exhaust side etc.? they are different part numbers, so I don't expect they are interchangeable. Also, make sure your oil is topped up, and if it has been a long time since an oil change, or is overdue, give it an oil/filter change as well (the solenoids use oil to drive them somehow)

The variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid (also called the Camshaft Position (CMP) actuator) is attached to each camshaft and is hydraulically operated in order to change the angle of the camshaft relative to Crankshaft Position (CKP). The variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid is controlled by the control module. The control module sends a pulse width modulated 12 volt signal to a variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid. The solenoid controls the amount of engine oil flow. The variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid can change the camshaft angle a maximum of 25°. The control module increases the pulse width to accomplish the desired camshaft operation.


Removal & Installation

2.4L Engine


Remove the intake manifold cover.
Disconnect the intake (3) or exhaust (2) variable camshaft timing oil control solenoids, as required.
Remove the exhaust (1) variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid bolt and valve, as required.
Remove the intake (2) variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid bolt and valve, as required.
Inspect the solenoid valve O-ring seals for damage. Replace as necessary.


To install:

Lubricate the solenoid valve O-ring seals with clean engine oil.
Install the intake (2) variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid valve and bolt, as required. Tighten the bolt to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Install the exhaust (1) variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid valve and bolt, as required. Tighten the bolt to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
Connect the intake (3) or exhaust (2) variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid valve electrical connector, as required.
Install the intake manifold cover.



Testing


Ensure the vehicle has the proper oil viscosity.
Observe the engine oil level. The engine oil level should be within the operating range.
Allow the engine to reach operating temperature.
Increase the engine speed to 1,500 RPM.
Command each solenoid to 25 percent. The angle desired parameter should match the solenoid actual parameter.


Component Testing

Measure the resistance of each variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid valve assembly. Resistance should be between 8-12 ohms.
Connect a jumper wire between the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid low reference circuit at the solenoid and a good ground.
Connect a fused jumper wire to the high control circuit at the solenoid.
Momentarily touch the fused jumper to B+.
Observe the spool valve inside the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid. The spool valve should move from fully closed to fully opened position.
If the spool valve does not move, replace the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid.

ok, so I'm having this code pop up now. Went to AutoZone and it said the same as the OP. Dude erased the code...came back about 40 miles later. Had it checked on the way home and it was the same code. Went to AutoZone at lunch, just now, and the CEL was off, but the code remained.

Here is where it gets cornfusing...AutoZone and O'Reilley Autoparts list the same part (#su9540) for the Camshaft position sensor on the '06 2.4L. They carry the same part, but it doesn't match the parts on the car. Called the Chevy dealer and the part Delco # 213-1690 brings up part #su9540 at both of the autoparts stores. Again...doesn't match the part in the car. Has a head on it that resembles the coil packs but the bolt is in-line, like the cam sensor. Not barrel like, like the cam sensor shown in first post of this thread. Any suggestions? Did they change the part???

Pic of GM part#213-1690
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACDEL...-/110689520456
Pic of AutoZone part#su9540
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...ntifier=793842

As of right now, the CEL is off...I'm fully expecting it to come back on :(

Don't confuse "Sensor" with "Solenoid"

Is that the issue? I asked dood at Autozone if there was a difference, and he said nay. I'll check for solenoids.

and....it came back on this morning. So, never really got an answer from anyone: is it the cam SENSOR or the cam SOLENOID/ACTUATORS that need to be replaced? I found both of the solenoid/actuators at a dealer not far from here, but don't want to throw (more) good $ at the problem without confirmation.

12628348 and 12628347 are the part #'s for the SOLENOIDS, but you all probably figured that out in the first post...I'm a little slow :)

Edit: Found them at a dealer 7 miles from the office...$100 for both. Hoping this does the job.

[QUOTE=SmootHHR;577890]ok, so I'm having this code pop up now.

SmootHHR, what code are you getting?

p0011, replaced the intake solenoid last night and all seems to be well so far. Will keep ya posted with any updates. Was going to replace both, but when I got to the dealer, low and behold, they didn't have the exhaust.

Autozone scanner said "bank A" dealer quick scanner said "bank 1" and the service guy said that intake is usually bank 1 and that is the one that they had. *fingers crossed*

EcoTecs only have a "bank 1" as do all 4 cyl. engines. Only "V" engines have a "bank 2".

Hopefully your problem is solved, though.

And that was my exact arguement, but that is how the scanners listed it. It'd be much easier if they just listed intake and exhaust. I spent more time trying to figure out what they meant by bank a/1 than anything else, but nobody seemed to know what it meant.

Whopper, you are indeed the man. Had the P0013 on my '07 HHR, followed your illustrious instructions to the T and it did the trick. No hard shifting and the CEL light went off after about 6-7 start ups.

We should take up a colection foe Whopper as he has savid a lot of us money not going to stealers for service, solved my problum about 2 years ago with his how to. $105.00 and 20 minutes of my time,

Oh I could use the money with all the oil changes I've done due to the ongoing flurry of "when do you change oil - when should I change oil - what oil should I use" which is the prompt for me doing my oil changes!!! ;)

Glad it helped a few people out. :)

Quick tip for you: rather than wait for a few drive cycles to clear the CEL, you can disconnect the battery under the rear floor for a minute to clear the code. Just make sure you disconnect the Neg terminal, as grounding out the Pos terminal with a wrench can be an electrifying experience, and we would then give you the nickame Sparky!! ;)

The same problem but on a 2.2
 

Hi all. I am having the same problem even went and got the parts getting all ready for the job. Yeah the problem is I have a 2.2 NOT a 2.4 and guess what, yeah you know, their not the same.
Mine is starting to buck and stall at lights and when I take off. Now, the CEL is still on but the hard shifting has stopped again. The reason I got the parts is because I am pulling the same codes having the same issues but mine is a 2.2 so, does anyone know if there are these same parts, different place maybe ?
Mines is a 2.2 Automatic. Or , something else I can look at ? Thanks all !

They were the same parts on my 2.0 turbo installed in the same place, so it's a good chance they are the same on the 2.2.

No I wish
 

No I wish it was the same but, mine looks nothing like the 2.4. That would be an easy fun job compared to most I have had to do. No, my injectors are not there like that nor are those easy to see solenoids. I know I was puzzled when I started the job, I even took the laptop to the car to make darn sure I was in the right place. Maybe somebody knows someone with a 2.2 that has had the same issues with the camshaft actuator solenoid. But thank you for your help anyway !

Since nobody has successfully answered your question re: 2.2 vs. 2.4 actuators, I'll offer a suggestion on how you MIGHT determine this.

Go to something like GMpartshouse.com or GMpartsdirect.com and look up each part for the respective engines. If the parts are exactly the same price for each engine, there's a good chance they are the same. If there is a difference in price, they are different parts. Note: neither of these suppliers provide part numbers on their sites.

You might also look at Rockauto.com. Don't know if they have the part, but if they do, they DO supply part numbers.

Good Luck

You say "injectors". You should be looking near the "spark plugs", in quotes because they are really the coil packs. Just clearing up terminology, and possible mis-interpretations.

I checked my service manual CD. The camshaft solenoid procedure listed here does apply to the 2.0L and 2.4L engines. However no camshaft solenoid replacement procedure is listed for the 2.2L engine. The 2.2L appears to use a camshaft balancer instead. Knowing what year your car is and the fault codes would help. I could look it up on the CD and post the results.