Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement (w. pics) - P0010/11 P0013/14
Senior Member
Joined: 12-24-2008
Posts: 717
From: N/A
Yup, the intake is definitely bad - replace it. You will be good to go.
The FSM manual says a reading of between 8 and 12 Ohms is what is desired. Your 13.5 Ohms is within the tolerances of both your meter and the solenoid. No need to replace it.
No, not over thinking, it is just hard to communicate sufficiently to each of our desires.
What is interesting about this circuit is that the solenoid moves something within the engine and then a “sensor” detects if the adjustment is proper and the computer(ECM) re-adjusts the commands to the solenoid. So the computer will correct a slight error, such as your 13.5 ohms, and the parts do not have to be of NASA quality.
The electrical test is by far the easiest way to test this solenoid and if it fails the electrical test it is indeed bad and needs to be replaced, such as yours. However, the electrical test is by no means conclusive as to whether it is good, only bad. There are other things besides the electrical portion of the solenoid that can go bad.
The FSM manual says a reading of between 8 and 12 Ohms is what is desired. Your 13.5 Ohms is within the tolerances of both your meter and the solenoid. No need to replace it.
No, not over thinking, it is just hard to communicate sufficiently to each of our desires.
What is interesting about this circuit is that the solenoid moves something within the engine and then a “sensor” detects if the adjustment is proper and the computer(ECM) re-adjusts the commands to the solenoid. So the computer will correct a slight error, such as your 13.5 ohms, and the parts do not have to be of NASA quality.
The electrical test is by far the easiest way to test this solenoid and if it fails the electrical test it is indeed bad and needs to be replaced, such as yours. However, the electrical test is by no means conclusive as to whether it is good, only bad. There are other things besides the electrical portion of the solenoid that can go bad.
Joined: 10-01-2012
Posts: 8
From: Ohio
Yup, the intake is definitely bad - replace it. You will be good to go.
The FSM manual says a reading of between 8 and 12 Ohms is what is desired. Your 13.5 Ohms is within the tolerances of both your meter and the solenoid. No need to replace it.
No, not over thinking, it is just hard to communicate sufficiently to each of our desires.
What is interesting about this circuit is that the solenoid moves something within the engine and then a “sensor” detects if the adjustment is proper and the computer(ECM) re-adjusts the commands to the solenoid. So the computer will correct a slight error, such as your 13.5 ohms, and the parts do not have to be of NASA quality.
The electrical test is by far the easiest way to test this solenoid and if it fails the electrical test it is indeed bad and needs to be replaced, such as yours. However, the electrical test is by no means conclusive as to whether it is good, only bad. There are other things besides the electrical portion of the solenoid that can go bad.
The FSM manual says a reading of between 8 and 12 Ohms is what is desired. Your 13.5 Ohms is within the tolerances of both your meter and the solenoid. No need to replace it.
No, not over thinking, it is just hard to communicate sufficiently to each of our desires.
What is interesting about this circuit is that the solenoid moves something within the engine and then a “sensor” detects if the adjustment is proper and the computer(ECM) re-adjusts the commands to the solenoid. So the computer will correct a slight error, such as your 13.5 ohms, and the parts do not have to be of NASA quality.
The electrical test is by far the easiest way to test this solenoid and if it fails the electrical test it is indeed bad and needs to be replaced, such as yours. However, the electrical test is by no means conclusive as to whether it is good, only bad. There are other things besides the electrical portion of the solenoid that can go bad.
Thread Starter
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,043
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Good info from snoWhite. If you got 0 ohms reading, it means the circuit is open (meaning it is broken) - it is supposed to be a circuit so yeah, toss that one away. A new intake actuator will fix it up for you.
New Member
Joined: 04-20-2009
Posts: 16
From: Chicago Heights, IL
As I was backing out of a driveway Friday the check engine light came on. I immediately took it to the local dealer and the problem turned out to be the camshaft position actuator solenoid. I mentioned this website and thread to the service writer and he said "Oh we replace them all the time in all Chevys."
Luckily my Equinox is still under warranty. And here I thought this problem was limited to HHRs. My HHR is fine (knock on wood). I just thought that the irony would be appreciated. Seriously, if this is a routine problem and happens across the line of Chevys then Chevrolet and possibly GM have a problem that they need to address.
Luckily my Equinox is still under warranty. And here I thought this problem was limited to HHRs. My HHR is fine (knock on wood). I just thought that the irony would be appreciated. Seriously, if this is a routine problem and happens across the line of Chevys then Chevrolet and possibly GM have a problem that they need to address.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-24-2008
Posts: 717
From: N/A
Whopper
From your post I know you understand this, but for the sake of a mis-education to others - corrected.
Thread Starter
Platinum Member
Joined: 04-09-2006
Posts: 7,043
From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
LOL Yeah I blew it totally. You nailed it. thanks for posting the correction. (muttering under my breath....... damn I hate digital VOM's - still prefer the old ones)
Senior Member
Joined: 08-12-2008
Posts: 165
From: South Jersey
GMPartsdirect.com has a further update (at least for '09 2.2L Flex):
Exhaust 12628348 = 12646784 = 12655421
Intake 12628347 = 12646783 = 12655420
I'm getting intermittent CEL, rattling sounds, some sputtering on start up, and P0010; no Traction Control Light and no shifting problems. Into the dealer tomorrow under the 5/100K power train warranty. Thanks for the great threads; I can return the 02 sensor I thought was the CEL problem.
Exhaust 12628348 = 12646784 = 12655421
Intake 12628347 = 12646783 = 12655420
I'm getting intermittent CEL, rattling sounds, some sputtering on start up, and P0010; no Traction Control Light and no shifting problems. Into the dealer tomorrow under the 5/100K power train warranty. Thanks for the great threads; I can return the 02 sensor I thought was the CEL problem.
Senior Member
Joined: 08-29-2009
Posts: 1,813
From: Long Island, NY
As I was backing out of a driveway Friday the check engine light came on. I immediately took it to the local dealer and the problem turned out to be the camshaft position actuator solenoid. I mentioned this website and thread to the service writer and he said "Oh we replace them all the time in all Chevys."
Luckily my Equinox is still under warranty. And here I thought this problem was limited to HHRs. My HHR is fine (knock on wood). I just thought that the irony would be appreciated. Seriously, if this is a routine problem and happens across the line of Chevys then Chevrolet and possibly GM have a problem that they need to address.
Luckily my Equinox is still under warranty. And here I thought this problem was limited to HHRs. My HHR is fine (knock on wood). I just thought that the irony would be appreciated. Seriously, if this is a routine problem and happens across the line of Chevys then Chevrolet and possibly GM have a problem that they need to address.
Joined: 10-01-2012
Posts: 8
From: Ohio
Just want to update everyone and let them know that I got the part today and replaced it. Unhooked the battery before hand and replaced the solenoid. Problem is solved now. Before the car had a wicked idle and as soon as that new solenoid was in the erratic idling ceased.
Also, this car also seems to surge under light throttle. Only does it a couple times then its gone until the conditions are right for it to happen again. I saw a thread that was about this and the fix was a parameter change in the code of the computer for the transmission. Can someone point me to that thread. I can't seem to find it now.
Thanks!
Also, this car also seems to surge under light throttle. Only does it a couple times then its gone until the conditions are right for it to happen again. I saw a thread that was about this and the fix was a parameter change in the code of the computer for the transmission. Can someone point me to that thread. I can't seem to find it now.
Thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: 08-12-2008
Posts: 165
From: South Jersey
My update: Took it into the dealer today (Gentillini in Woodbine, NJ) with the P0010 code; CEL wasn't on, but it was sputtering a little this morning. They changed the intake solenoid under the 5yr/100K warranty and all is well again.
Off topic but...
I've always been very pleased with this dealer. I went to them and a local Chevy dealer when I was looking to buy. The local dealer strung me along for two weeks saying they were setting up a dealer trade. I finally asked for my $500 check back. Gentillini called that afternoon and said they had a white one just coming off the truck. They wouldn't even take a deposit. Salesman said "A handshake's enough."
Off topic but...
I've always been very pleased with this dealer. I went to them and a local Chevy dealer when I was looking to buy. The local dealer strung me along for two weeks saying they were setting up a dealer trade. I finally asked for my $500 check back. Gentillini called that afternoon and said they had a white one just coming off the truck. They wouldn't even take a deposit. Salesman said "A handshake's enough."