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Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Replacement (w. pics) - P0010/11 P0013/14

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Old Jun 10, 2013 | 03:20 PM
  #291  
mchipser's Avatar
 
Joined: 06-10-2013
Posts: 4
From: texas
Originally Posted by whopper
Assuming it is the right part needed, did you disconnect the battery's neg post for a while to reset the CEL code?

(I gather v4 is a typo?)
I didn't unhook the battery, but i did clear the codes using my code reader.. The car was still shifting hard after the replacement as well.. Do I need to unhook the battery if i cleared the codes?, I will try this tonight when I get home though.

v4 might as well be a typo.. 4 cylinder...
Old Jun 10, 2013 | 03:40 PM
  #292  
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Joined: 10-21-2008
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From: hemet, calif.
I didn't do anything but change the 2 solenoids did not touch the battery, got them changed and just drove it now for 3 years and never a problem. YIPPEE and no codes in refrence to the hard shifting.

Last edited by jay loukakis; Jun 10, 2013 at 03:42 PM. Reason: it has been 4 years.
Old Jun 10, 2013 | 08:21 PM
  #293  
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From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Originally Posted by mchipser
I didn't unhook the battery, but i did clear the codes using my code reader.. The car was still shifting hard after the replacement as well.. Do I need to unhook the battery if i cleared the codes?, I will try this tonight when I get home though.

v4 might as well be a typo.. 4 cylinder...
No, the code reader clearing it should be enough. But what the heck, disconnect the negative post on the battery for 5-10 mins and see if that clears it.

Oh, some people have found best results in changing the oil and filter at the same time, as sometimes the problems are caused by contamination in the solenoid. If you have a multimeter you can check the restistance across the old solenoid terminals - it should be 8-12 Ohms I think (read previous posts to verify). If the restistance is within specs contamination might be the reason for the problems. Read a couple of the posts just prior to your first one for more info on that.

Also, I'd check the connector at the top of the solenoid to make sure it is not damaged at all, and is plugged in correctly. Did you break the clip that holds it on by any chance?
Old Jun 10, 2013 | 09:10 PM
  #294  
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Joined: 06-10-2013
Posts: 4
From: texas
Originally Posted by whopper
No, the code reader clearing it should be enough. But what the heck, disconnect the negative post on the battery for 5-10 mins and see if that clears it.

Oh, some people have found best results in changing the oil and filter at the same time, as sometimes the problems are caused by contamination in the solenoid. If you have a multimeter you can check the restistance across the old solenoid terminals - it should be 8-12 Ohms I think (read previous posts to verify). If the restistance is within specs contamination might be the reason for the problems. Read a couple of the posts just prior to your first one for more info on that.

Also, I'd check the connector at the top of the solenoid to make sure it is not damaged at all, and is plugged in correctly. Did you break the clip that holds it on by any chance?
I should probably state her car has been doing this for awhile, I just haven't gotten around to looking at it. We have been getting regular oil changes on the car every 3000 miles. I know this is probably overkill, but i was always taught every 3k, and I think we just got it done maybe 2-3 weeks ago.. Do I need to change the oil again since I changed out the solenoid? I also think it makes no sense for one of the code to go away and the other to stay..

I tried the battery, that didn't fix it...

I verified I plugged the connector in correctly..

Here is the best picture I could take of it right now.. Why does it look like there is a oil leak from the exhaust solenoid?

Old Jun 11, 2013 | 09:55 AM
  #295  
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From: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Having done the recent oil change should be enough.

Good picture - that helps - thanks. Looks like you may have a problem with that oil leak - it looks like it is from the EXHAUST solenoid, but it may be from the INTAKE one - regardless it looks like a problem with a bad o-ring. The o-ring needs to be lubricated with a drop or two of engine oil during the installation.

If it was me, I'd pick up a genuine GM (AC DELCO) Intake solenoid and replace the aftermarket one you installed, and check out the oil leak at the same time. If the oil leak is from the exhaust solenoid, swap the o-ring from the aftermarket solenoid.

They work dependant on oil pressure - so the oil leak is a concern.
Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:31 AM
  #296  
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Joined: 06-14-2013
Posts: 1
From: florida
Thank you so much for this tutorial. Aftwr I got my car stuck in snow in mo a few months back my traction light popped on. It continued to come on occasionally with the hard shifting. Took it to a shop they read the codes it was giving and said something about a faulty break light sensor.....we didn't repair that because I couldn't see how that was the problem. Finally the check engine light also came on so I had the codes checked again and there it was. The code matched what I had found here. Tracking down the part was another thing. They didn't have it listed under any of the parts numbers or the name. But alas we found them ordered them and replaced them now a great running car again. Oh hoe I missed remote start in this rediculous fl heat!
Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:41 AM
  #297  
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there ya go - glad you got it resolved. Enjoy your A/C!!! :-)
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 12:44 PM
  #298  
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Joined: 11-24-2010
Posts: 1
From: Fort Erie, ON
2.2

Are they the same part numbers for the 2.2 litre engine? As found in the Chevy Cobalt.
Old Jun 19, 2013 | 12:57 PM
  #299  
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Originally Posted by Kaatuu
Are they the same part numbers for the 2.2 litre engine? As found in the Chevy Cobalt.
No idea - go check it out at any of the online auto parts stores, or Gmparts direct etc..
Old Jun 22, 2013 | 10:20 AM
  #300  
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Joined: 06-22-2013
Posts: 2
From: Holiday, Fl
Does anybody know, are these part numbers submitted by Whopper the same on a 2.2L DOHC?

I'm having the issue with the TC and Engine light. It comes on when my car has been driven for roughly 20 mins, but it seems to take longer if I don't have to do a lot of stopping. I can go to work which is 27mi one way and it don't come on at all if I have limited stops. The car also kicks and jerks once those lights come on.

I took it to goodyear and the service manager told me that I would have to take it to a dealer. He did say that a good engine treatment and cleaning might fix the issue but couldn't promise it. It does sound like the solenoids could just be getting stuck if they are engaged multiple times. I guess that would be from starting and stopping I don't know? Any idea's about that theory?

Other than that, thanks to this thread I believe I can fix the problem by replacing the solenoids myself, but I am having trouble finding the parts. Gm Direct Replacement site shows these parts for a 2.4l and I looked them up for a 2.2L, that is why I am wondering if anyone knows if they are the same. You can't get your money back if you have them shipped and I don't really have the time to get them and find out they're wrong to send back anyway. Any help would be great.

Thanks...



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