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Originally Posted by Kookie
(Post 757881)
IDK bout the aftermarket t-stats. Got one at Autozone, failed within 4 months. This time I got the GM dealer t-stat. Double the price @ 50 bucks and we will see how long it lasts. Definitely looks a tad better built and made in Mexico where my car was made, lol.
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I guess I'll just ask in here... my DIC has been showing, for a few months now, that my coolant will spike up to 210-215 after getting off the freeway. My dash, though, starts off at flatline but doesn't move past the 45% mark. I get no CEL for this. The fan does kick on at around 210, cools it off immediately, but then temp begins to climb again after that. I do have to check and add coolant every couple months, not a ton, but the reservoir slowly goes empty (I check after it has been running) so I put some in. However, when I top it off the coolant issue doesn't go away. Does this sound like the thermostat? The two different readings being so off? Thx for your time. :)
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You may want to get the codes check anyway. There will sometimes be a code in the system with out a light.
If you have not had the thermostat changed it would be a good place to start. However the fact that you keep adding coolant suggests your having a coolant leak like a head gasket or an external leak that is small to the point you don't see it under the car. |
x2 what Lucky said.
And the analog gauge is nowhere near as accurate as the DIC temp display - the analog one seems to only show big swings in temp. Going by the DIC temp display as you have been doing is the most accurate. |
Originally Posted by Lucky
(Post 758460)
You may want to get the codes check anyway. There will sometimes be a code in the system with out a light.
If you have not had the thermostat changed it would be a good place to start. However the fact that you keep adding coolant suggests your having a coolant leak like a head gasket or an external leak that is small to the point you don't see it under the car. I just had the car in for a check engine light a few weeks ago and no code showed up then when they did a diagnostic. I am assuming it should have shown up then if it was? This has been an issue for months so if it was pinging a code it may have set off then. whopper- I have had some issues with finding small leaks, but they are just that, very small. Maybe I need to trace it. I think I may do the thermostat just to see, seeing as folks have reported issues. What symptoms would my car show for the head gasket? My gas mileage is still good, my oil level is good too and I haven't noticed a rough idle or anything. Thx again! |
Today I found another place to worry about! The plug on the t-stat housing (for the non-existent oil cooler) has a pin hole in it!!!!!!
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" just had the car in for a check engine light a few weeks ago and no code showed up then when they did a diagnostic. I am assuming it should have shown up then if it was? This has been an issue for months so if it was pinging a code it may have set off then."
WHAT? if the CEL was on there had to be codes. |
Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 758649)
" just had the car in for a check engine light a few weeks ago and no code showed up then when they did a diagnostic. I am assuming it should have shown up then if it was? This has been an issue for months so if it was pinging a code it may have set off then."
WHAT? if the CEL was on there had to be codes. |
Just had my CEL come on today and a code reader (Torque app on Android via ODB Bluetooth) tells me it's P0128. Analog gauge and DIC are both flatlined for temp. App showed me a reading of around 170°F (after 5 minutes of driving) -- must be from a different sensor?
Question for those who have been through this: Does it sound like a bad thermostat? Based on what I read here, that's the fix, but I wanted a bit of confirmation before I start tearing into my daily driver. (Not worried about doing the work; just have extremely little free time at the moment so can't afford to waste it fixing things that ain't broke.) Car ran fine and seemed to be warming up just fine, so I'm wondering about the possibility of a bad sensor instead. Roughly 60K miles on the car, give or take. |
T-stat is stuck open. 192 F is normal. I bet your A/C doesn't work.
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Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 760560)
T-stat is stuck open. 192 F is normal. I bet your A/C doesn't work.
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Pop "p0128" into the search box or google to get the why. It is well covered and frankly gets boring to me.
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Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 760563)
Pop "p0128" into the search box or google to get the why. It is well covered and frankly gets boring to me.
FWIW, when I was about two blocks from the auto parts store, the temp gauge suddenly started working again and the temp climbed steadily from ~170° to the 195° I'm used to. Bought the new t-stat anyway and will replace tomorrow (after the car has cooled down). Sure acts like a stuck t-stat that loosened up again, so this should fix it. Thanks again! |
Thats not what I meant, this tiny keyboard is my problem.
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Originally Posted by brossow
(Post 760569)
Sorry, didn't mean to imply I was asking for an explanation -- just saying I was surprised is all. :smile:
FWIW, when I was about two blocks from the auto parts store, the temp gauge suddenly started working again and the temp climbed steadily from ~170° to the 195° I'm used to. Bought the new t-stat anyway and will replace tomorrow (after the car has cooled down). Sure acts like a stuck t-stat that loosened up again, so this should fix it. Thanks again! Let us know how the replacement goes, and if it resolves your problems. |
Problem solved. Not quite at easy as an old small-block Chevy, but not terrible by any means. Once I got the old one out, it was obvious that it needed to be replaced (old one on the left, replacement on the right):
https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil.../4/_115486.jpg https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil...011_174359.jpg Took it for a short drive and it got up to temp right away. Thanks again for the advice! :thumb: |
Just curious, what brand? The one that came in my 2011 does not have a large inner rubber seal, you can barely see it, it's not big enough to make a problem.
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Originally Posted by vtfb68
(Post 589804)
Mine went out last month @ 56,000 miles, It cost me $0.00 becuse of the 100,000 mile powertrain coverage that we all have. I sure hope everybody posting were out of warranty at the time of change. Love those warranties!!
VT |
Originally Posted by jer1041
(Post 768104)
The thermostat is covered by the 100,00 mile warrantee? Even if the vehicle (I purchased new in 2006) is 9 years old? It has 50,000 miles on it.
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Hello guys & gals,
I used this thread back in July 2014 to replace the thermostat. About 8000 miles later getting the p0128 code. I picked the thermostat at Adv Auto Parts and it wasn't the ACDelco brand. I did check my coolant levels and seem fine. Anyone else have this issue? -Also can I damage the car if I keep on driving it like this? Thanks in advance. |
Long term usage would not be a good idea, as it likely is affecting gas mileage, as well as if the gauges are blanked out, how can you monitor the temperature in case of an overheat?
I drove mine for a few weeks till I did a re and re on the thermostat - no harm done, and I didn't monitor the gas mileage. I'd get it changed at first convenience, and this time stick with the GM thermostat, which apparently has been redesigned to alleviate the problem. A few parts have been redesigned by GM over the years - the thermostat, and the Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valves (3 versions so far) come to mind. The aftermarket companies may not keep up to the changes made by GM, so IMO you definitely take your chances with some aftermarket items. |
Originally Posted by FerociousHHR
(Post 773365)
Hello guys & gals,
I used this thread back in July 2014 to replace the thermostat. About 8000 miles later getting the p0128 code. I picked the thermostat at Adv Auto Parts and it wasn't the ACDelco brand. I did check my coolant levels and seem fine. Anyone else have this issue? -Also can I damage the car if I keep on driving it like this? Thanks in advance. |
Thanks for the replies!
What would be the recommended part number for the 2007 LT 2.4L? ACDelco 12T103D ACDelco 131-158 (seems to be newer) Thx |
go with the ACDelco 131-158 , it's the newer one for the HHR 2.2 or 2.4 litre.
your P0128 code keeps tripping because the thermostat will not open with in the time frame parameters the ECM requires |
Thanks, got it replaced and cleared the code with Torque app.
http://s7.postimg.org/syy35y7hj/20150309_192326.jpg |
I hope you don't need an emissions test soon. You will have to wait until all of the OBD monitors complete. Everything gets set to 0 when you clear a code.
P0128 would clear itself as soon as you warmed the car up. |
...and another fat wad of cash saved. Thanks for this thread!
So the famous --- coolant reading brought me here. The problem was intermittent all while the engine was taking a bit longer to warm up. Once the digital readout would come back it would only get up to about 177 degrees.
I waited until a nice Saturday morning and I used an 18" extension that made it super easy. The hardest part was loosening the petkawk. For reference my mileage is at 119,000. I used ramps because my ride height is too low to slip in a drain tank underneath. I think that allowed for more drainage as my system took over a gallon of coolant to fill. I'll take $50 v.s. $350 any day if all I have to do is pull a couple bolts and fondle a petkawk. :clappy: |
Another happy customer!! Make sure you only handle that petkawk with your hand, never a wrench or pliers!!!
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So. I guess "petkawk" should be the official spelling now for this site. :lol:
Lord knows, we don't want to upset the PC, vulgarity, obscenity or morals police. |
So it is written so it shall be done!
Sorry I had the watch The Ten Commandments the other night! |
Originally Posted by Oldblue
(Post 776159)
Another happy customer!! Make sure you only handle that petkawk with your hand, never a wrench or pliers!!!
The rag was also helpful with the cleanup. Ok I'm done. |
Originally Posted by helhedded
(Post 776259)
After wrestling with my petkawk for a few minutes (in broad daylight none the less) I wised up and used a rag for some extra torque action.
The rag was also helpful with the cleanup. Ok I'm done. BUT, you do not HAVE to drain the coolant to replace the t-stat. You should lose less than a pint. OOHH, a pint! OK,I'm done!. |
I used pliers on mine. Once I got it to break lose it was easy to turn by hand, that's how I tightened it.
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Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 776287)
There is a tool made for the job. Really! I mean the radiator thing, I own one they cost under $2.
BUT, you do not HAVE to drain the coolant to replace the t-stat. You should lose less than a pint. OOHH, a pint! OK,I'm done!. *clink* |
Just replaced my thermostat in my 2006 2LT yesterday, thanks to your documentation, Smoke Wagon. I have owned this car since Dec 2006 and just started having thermostat issues around Jan 2015.
My thermostat was stuck in the open position. I was experiencing the same flat-lined temp gauge issues as many people in this thread. The analog gauge was all the way down to 0 and the digital gauge displayed a reading of --- F degrees. Occasionally, the gauge would kick in and start working, but it was flat-lined a majority of the time. On the off days that the gauge actually showed me any information, the temperature reading was really low (160-180 F). Picked up a Duralast OEM thermostat replacement from AutoZone for about $25 along with generic AutoZone brand extended life 50/50 Dex-Cool for $11. The new thermostat already came with a gasket. Took me about an hour to do from start to finish, but I am not that experienced under the hood. The bad thermostat was in terrible shape. The small, inner gaskets were totally destroyed. After installing the replacement, my temp gauge now works and the cooling system behavior is back to normal. Thanks again, Smoke Wagon!! |
Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 774074)
I hope you don't need an emissions test soon. You will have to wait until all of the OBD monitors complete. Everything gets set to 0 when you clear a code.
P0128 would clear itself as soon as you warmed the car up. |
A big 'Thank you!' to the OP and contributors.
The job took me over an hour to do, but it was successful. The drain valve was TIGHT, but a six point socket over it with a short breaker bar gave enough umph to break it free without breaking the valve's wings itself. Afterward, I was surprised how long it took the coolant temperature to come up, but it did, and stayed where it was supposed to. Before the repair the digital temperature readings were from a high of 189 F to a low of 127F, and this was all on the same hot Texas day. Yesterday was the big test: On the highway at 70 MPH, outside air temp 105 F - coolant temp never exceeded 201 F and didn't drop below 189 F. Saturday will be the tire pressure sensors. Then the surging TAP reset. |
thermostat
Originally Posted by Smoke Wagon
(Post 396225)
...well, minus your actual cost on parts.
THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT 2.4* *2.2 may be the same I have read quotes from people who called the dealer that they charge upwards of around $350 to replace a thermostat in a HHR. I had the typical flat-lined temp gauge, and a code 128 with a CEL. I decided to approach the situation, and repair the vehicle myself. I ordered a Thermostat from NAPA-cost $33.80 in stock Here's how I replaced mine: (thanks to rezonatefreak for pictures) -let engine cool -use a code scanner to CLEAR the code 128 from the PCM. If you do not have a code scanner, go to Autozone AFTER you have done the following repairs. They pull/clear codes for free. -open hood, and remove the cooling system fill cap that is located on the passenger side of the radiator's upper hose(near the air filter cover) -open petc0ck at bottom of radiator on passenger side, and drain coolant in to drain pan. -locate THERMOSTAT housing on driver's side of engine, just above transmission case. It is almost directly below the oil fill cap https://www.chevyhhr.net/gallery/fil...ousing.2.4.jpg -remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the housing on. You can use a 1/4" drive ratchet, short socket or wobbly 10mm socket, and a 12" extension if available(makes the job easier) -lift up, and pull the housing towards the radiator, while leaving the hose attached. if you wish to replace the hose clamp, do this now. Inspect underside of housing to be sure there are no remnants of the old o-ring/seal. -remove the old thermostat. Make note of how it sits in the hole. -inspect underside of thermostat opening to make sure there are no remaining o-ring particles. -install new thermostat exactly like the old one was sitting. -align thermostat housing in to position, and re-install the two 10mm bolts. -close petc0ck at bottom of radiator. -fill cooling system through upper hose fill cap opening with coolant of your choice. Most elect to flush out all traces of Dex Cool. -turn on climate control to FULL HOT, select VENT, and open the vents, and turn the fan on high. -start the engine. let the engine run until you feel heat coming from the vents. Use your DIC to select COOLANT temperature, and watch it until it reaches 190 degrees. Keep an eye on the coolant level at the fill hole. Once you have HEAT and temperature has reached 190 degrees, top off and close cap. Fill overflow to capacity. DONE. This entire job takes less than 30 minutes if you have the proper tools. I drove my car on to the rack at 4:45pm yesterday, cleared the code, did the repair, and drove off the rack at 5:05pm. total cost was $12.00 in anti-freeze, and $34 for the Thermostat. How the dealers can get away with charging over $350 for this job is beyond me. They sell the T-stat for over $50, and I am sure they charge to clear the code as well. But still...if you stood outside and watched them do this repair, they would be finished in 15 minutes total, unless they milk it knowing you're watching. But $350 is just robbing the customers blind. I've done some major work on many cars before, as well as some easy work. This is as easy as doing a T-stat in a small block Chevy. As of today it has a new thermostat, xtended life coolant and a new coolant sensor. Took a trip to the local dealer where they cleared the codes. Now there are no coolant numbers, no heat guage dial, chuggs and does not always want to start.* *When at the dealer they showed me the codes; which were all oxygen sensor, system rich stuff and coolant sensor stuff like(coolant temp too high). So. The one thing like that could cause two systems to be so out of touch...maybe a head gasket? What sucks is that I have a red seal and a tool box full but no place to do it. So I have to take it to someone who does. CRAP! |
It could be an air bubble in the heater core! Park the HHR nose high, start it let run with heater on high heat , let run 5 minutes, turn off key let engine cool down, gently open rad hose cap, careful it might splash !
Top up the coolant! If it took more then a quart the heater core was the problem. Close cap! Repeat , it shouldn't take any more coolant. |
Posting the actual codes would really help in the diagnosis. (the a/c not working is directly related to the coolant temp issues - the a/c is automatically disabled - so don't worry about the a/c at this point).
You recently replaced the flex pipe which means the O2 Sensor was reinstalled - check the connection for that, along with a fresh burping of the system as per Oldblue. You can likely clear the codes yourself by disconnecting the NEGATIVE post of the battery in the trunk for a few minutes. |
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