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Originally Posted by whopper
(Post 600128)
I wouldn't be to hard on AutoZone not clearing the code - I think someone posted something about them not clearing codes due to liability reasons. And I can kinda agree with that - too many people leave with an incorrect code in their mind and then do the wrong thing to fix the wrong problem as they get the codes mixed up. I don't how many times I have had friends/relatives say "I think the the code was ......"! Or, if the code refers to something safety-related and you had a problem, that would put them in a potentially liable situation. I have sometimes pulled codes for friends and neighbors - and cleared the non-safety related ones - if I encountered a safety-related one, I would not clear it either, and would advise them to book an appointment with a garage/dealer asap.
Clearing it by disconnecting the battery, or pulling a fuse that some have referred to, is not that big a deal. But, glad you got it fixed and saved a pile of $'s at the same time. Good job man. |
Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 600273)
The liability comes from you running next door to the emissions testing station after they clear the code with no repair receipt in hand!
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Originally Posted by Thylacine
(Post 608643)
What does this mean?
I wouldn't worry about it. |
Originally Posted by whopper
(Post 608711)
I think he is saying if you failed the emissions test already and go back for a retest, you need a receipt for the work (generally) - and that puts the business that cleared your code on the hook, and they may not accept your rerun thru the test without a receipt.
I wouldn't worry about it. And going back to the original thread... Be incredibly careful while re-installing the t-stat housing bolts! I managed to strip the threads on one of them; I swear I was using only my hand on an extension, not even a ratchet handle! And that lead to a new (junkyard) engine since I was trying to fix the head gasket leak with the chemical that does not work anyway........$1000 for head gasket $2000 for entire engine (9K) 215,000 miles, then the dog needed surgery $3000 Merry Christmas! I feel like a country song is hitting me in the face.:corny::roflol: |
Originally Posted by donbrew
(Post 600273)
The liability comes from you running next door to the emissions testing station after they clear the code with no repair receipt in hand!
This was fixed easy for those of you in the same boat. Simply turn it on, then turn it off 3 times. Then Start it and run it. Go get some smokes or take a trip to wal-mart. Once you turn it off. The next time you start it. You should have the information the Emissions people need. This worked for my 2006 HHR 2.4L. Passed with flying colors and I saved $320 over the gm thermostat install. :D |
Would this cause both the gauge and DIC temp to not work? Or just the gauge?
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And would this be covered by the power-train warranty?
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3 Attachment(s)
Changing my Thermostat(Tstat) on a 2006 LS.
Going to edit the thread as I work on it.... So far, jacked up and found the pet****, SOB! Are these engineers on drugs? Only way I could get to it was from the bottom, my arms are not small enough from the top. Then reaching up and around the cross member makes for very little room and strength to trun the pet****. So I fabbed a tool that fits over the pet**** and lets me turn it back behind the cross member. Picture to follow. Radiator is draining right now, didn't pull the pet**** out completely, figure it will be easier than trying to fit it back in. Why the heck didn't they use a hex head on the pet**** and let us get at it with a socket and extension? Like I said, Engineers!:skull1:(LMAO, the forum thinks the word petc0ck is a bad word?) OK I'm off to disconnect the battery, BBL OK so now that the collant has drained I used a 12" extension with a 10MM Universal drive socket and was able to easily remove the two retaining bolts. The top housing popped loose easily and then with a slight pry of a screw driver the Tstat lifted out without any gasket damage or residue left over. Used a sponge to soak up some of the coolant in the lower housing so that I could wipe that area clean, dropped in the new Tstat, lined up the houseing and hand threaded the bolts in, tighten them down, DONE! I did not have to remove the radiator hose. Next I drained the Over flow tank and flushed it. After that I filled it up with water, left the pet**** slightly open and put a slow running hose in the top fill opening, I had a flow of about 1 OZ per few seconds going then fired it up and let it warm up. Just enough to open the Tstat and flush the orange out. Maybe 5 minutes, shut it down, let the radiator drian, closed the pet**** and filled with new AF. I'm very pleased, a run on the highway showed a 185 degree temp with no more than a +/-2 deg variation. Mike R The tool Attachment 26906 Attachment 26907 Made from a Balsa block about 5 Inches long, I should have made it about 7" long The damaged Tstat. Attachment 26908 |
There is a "block drain" on the water pump, so that you can get a full drain. It is also difficult to get to, but it is there.
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Question: Why drain anything? Why not just unto the housing, pop out the tstat, replace, and bolt housing back down?
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