When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Today , I worked on the Cobalt SS rims , see my thread in the How to section about it.
I tried some Mother’s Power Metal polish after I wet sanded 320 then 400 then 600 then 800 then 1,000 then 1,500 then 2,000 and finally 3,000 grit. This took me 2 hours on this rim. Awhile ago , I used 80 grit to remove the clear coat, then 180 and the started the 320 grit that took me an 1 1/2, so 3 1/2 hours per rim X 4 = 14 hours.....
We’ll, it’s just about 2 years since I bought the BlackSwan, some expected repair work had to be done, nothing abnormal!
a year after I installed the new swaybar end links , they started to clunk again, so they got replaced last week. I hear clunks every now and then, but nothing really urgent to replace.
The front struts are good, rear shocks good. LCA’s are good the ball joints take grease and aren’t showing any signs of wear and tear. Rear bushings bolts are tight as are all over front suspension fasteners.
New PowerStop Z17 171028 clean ride ceramic pads last week sure cured the brake dust problem.
the odometer is showing 238,600 klms now or 148,259 miles. Sweetie loves driving it, I get to putter around the house or garden while she’s taking her Mom out for appointments or lunch .
for me that’s a good sign , everything is fine.
Just a photo of where my parking space is! Sweetie has it out for her monthly lunch with her friends she worked with over her 43 years at JD
We’ll today has been 2 years since I purchased the BlackSwan, it’s been a great car, fun to drive, easy to work on and kinda fun to modify, just a little. I have changed the summer rims after polishing the SS alloy rims , lowered the rear with SS FE5 rear springs. Up graded the suspension with KYB struts and shocks installed the SS non Brembo front rotors and calipers.
It handles awesome, gets good fuel mileage and I think it’s going to be around for along time!
Today , heat warning is in effect, but that driver’s side LCA rear bolt has to be changed, the RockAuto order arrived yesterday afternoon, Friday the 17th, awesome considering I placed the order on the Wednesday the 15th I ordered two bolts and one cage nut.
judging by the cage the nut never really fully contacts the body , there are two little arms that go between the nut and the body of the HHR
These two retaining arms , this is the side that goes down against the body This would be the top side , , now I wonder are there Slots or holes in the body for those little triangle like points to locate the cage prior to welding?
Good day, I am in the middle of replacing LCA - drivers side. Started out as a bushing replacement but the LCA had to be sacrificed to the sawzall to be able to cut the seized bolt/bushing out. I am putting in my order at Rock Auto for the LCA and the rear mounting bolt but I can't find the capture nut listed when I search for it in a number of different ways. Did you get the capture nut from RockAuto? Would you by chance still have the part # or magic search phrase? Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated/.
I believe the cage nut to be obsolete from GM .
GM part number 11518529 cage nut
GM part number 11589009 frame bolt
I did run a part number search in RockAuto and they show inventory
fastsuv , used 14 mm 2.0 flanged nuts , as the cage is damaged and won’t hold the flat cage nut.
they require a 21mm wrench . He explains in No Reverse
