Black HHR SS Wax or no wax tips
Senior Member
Joined: 04-26-2008
Posts: 472
From: Kensington, Md
Purchased from HHR Boutique one of the Supporting Vendors
http://hhrboutique.com/items/hhr-exterior/bras/list.htm
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
Asking what to use for wax is like asking who to vote for, what church to go to and what oil to use. There are a lot of correct answers and very few wrong one's
Most polishes and waxes like Meguires, Mothers, Zaino, 3M etc. All are good products and do a good job.
The to a good wax job is how you go about and do it. Depending on the condition and upkeep is what determinds what you need or have to do.
First off the one step cleaner wax is good for many daily drivers that just want to protect their car. They do not care about the ultimate look and condition of the paint. They just want to see if bead up and look better than it did.
I know a little about black cars. I have had 3. A 63 Galaxie 500 which is like waxing a house. But today I own a black SS and a black 1985 Fiero that I have taken first in class in the Pontiac national 5 years straight and 9 out of the last 11 years.
Here is what I have been taught and have learned from some of the best.
The first step is to decide what condition your paint is in.
Then use different steps in polish to clean and shine the paint. It is no different than if you were sanding a table out. Start with the proper grit for the condition then move to the finer media. I use Meguires as an example here but there are many good polishes to use and most are of the same qulity.
IF it needs cleaned use a clay bar.
If it has scatches and marks use a more agressive polish like Meguires Power Cleaner or Diamond cut.
Then follow it up with Profesional Duel Cleaner Polish.
Follow that with Professional Swirl Remover Polish
Follow if needed with Professional Hand Polish.
If the paint is in good condition you can go right to the hand polish and skip the rest.
One it is Polished out use a good pure Carnuba wax. I prefer paste but the others are just as good. But do leave the cleaner wax alone if you want a top condition job. Carnuba will give you the longest lasting wax as will the new Micro wax like Nex Gen.
The other thing that is key is use good quality mirco fiber towels. This is key. Even diapers are not as good as a quality micro fiber.
I have also made use of a 6 inch orbital buffer. The one I use is a Porter Cable 6" machine. This is not the cheap big black plastic one you see. This is the one most detailers use as a light clean up buffer. It is variable speed and will not buff through. I also use a larger 8" regular buffer but unless you know what you are doing avoid these as you will burn throught the paint. It take practice to really work well with one.
One product I have just started using is the 3M Finess polish for dark paint. It is easy to use and works well with a fine foam pad on my 6" buffer. I scored a perfect score on 24 year old paint on my Fiero this year on a bright sunny day. This is the toughest condition to show black paint.
So While you may get many recomendations here most are going to be good ones. But if you do not prep and work you paint into the proper condition you are leaving a lot of shine on the table. Proper prep, application and removal are key no matter the product.
Not most HHR's here will not take much to clean up as they are taken care of and are also not that old.
To make a tough job easier I also do a fender or hood a night. This way I only spend a short time on it and get it done with out spending a long time on it.
After you clean the vehicle up. You can dust it with a California duster and use detailer spray with a micro fiber towel to give it cleanings between washes.
I do the dust off and cleaning with the Fiero and since it is rare to be in rain I have not washed it with water for about 5 years.
There are many books and video's on detailing. Watch them and learn. I could only give a short note here on what to do and they go into more detail and show you how to do it.
My HHR is in the same condition today as it was when I got it over a year ago. There were times last winter I had a white HHR and never thought my car would look the same after all the dirt and salt.
Most polishes and waxes like Meguires, Mothers, Zaino, 3M etc. All are good products and do a good job.
The to a good wax job is how you go about and do it. Depending on the condition and upkeep is what determinds what you need or have to do.
First off the one step cleaner wax is good for many daily drivers that just want to protect their car. They do not care about the ultimate look and condition of the paint. They just want to see if bead up and look better than it did.
I know a little about black cars. I have had 3. A 63 Galaxie 500 which is like waxing a house. But today I own a black SS and a black 1985 Fiero that I have taken first in class in the Pontiac national 5 years straight and 9 out of the last 11 years.
Here is what I have been taught and have learned from some of the best.
The first step is to decide what condition your paint is in.
Then use different steps in polish to clean and shine the paint. It is no different than if you were sanding a table out. Start with the proper grit for the condition then move to the finer media. I use Meguires as an example here but there are many good polishes to use and most are of the same qulity.
IF it needs cleaned use a clay bar.
If it has scatches and marks use a more agressive polish like Meguires Power Cleaner or Diamond cut.
Then follow it up with Profesional Duel Cleaner Polish.
Follow that with Professional Swirl Remover Polish
Follow if needed with Professional Hand Polish.
If the paint is in good condition you can go right to the hand polish and skip the rest.
One it is Polished out use a good pure Carnuba wax. I prefer paste but the others are just as good. But do leave the cleaner wax alone if you want a top condition job. Carnuba will give you the longest lasting wax as will the new Micro wax like Nex Gen.
The other thing that is key is use good quality mirco fiber towels. This is key. Even diapers are not as good as a quality micro fiber.
I have also made use of a 6 inch orbital buffer. The one I use is a Porter Cable 6" machine. This is not the cheap big black plastic one you see. This is the one most detailers use as a light clean up buffer. It is variable speed and will not buff through. I also use a larger 8" regular buffer but unless you know what you are doing avoid these as you will burn throught the paint. It take practice to really work well with one.
One product I have just started using is the 3M Finess polish for dark paint. It is easy to use and works well with a fine foam pad on my 6" buffer. I scored a perfect score on 24 year old paint on my Fiero this year on a bright sunny day. This is the toughest condition to show black paint.
So While you may get many recomendations here most are going to be good ones. But if you do not prep and work you paint into the proper condition you are leaving a lot of shine on the table. Proper prep, application and removal are key no matter the product.
Not most HHR's here will not take much to clean up as they are taken care of and are also not that old.
To make a tough job easier I also do a fender or hood a night. This way I only spend a short time on it and get it done with out spending a long time on it.
After you clean the vehicle up. You can dust it with a California duster and use detailer spray with a micro fiber towel to give it cleanings between washes.
I do the dust off and cleaning with the Fiero and since it is rare to be in rain I have not washed it with water for about 5 years.
There are many books and video's on detailing. Watch them and learn. I could only give a short note here on what to do and they go into more detail and show you how to do it.
My HHR is in the same condition today as it was when I got it over a year ago. There were times last winter I had a white HHR and never thought my car would look the same after all the dirt and salt.
Senior Member
Joined: 11-15-2008
Posts: 1,599
From: Newburgh, NY
yadda, yadda, yadda.
It all depends upon if you have a wife and kids, a hot girlfriend or a good job.
If none of the above, you can spend a weekend on multiprocessing the black finish on your HHR.
I have the former, so I have to put up with a simple wash followed by a Meguire's Carnauba wax shine.
Looks better than many black cars out on the street, but not the top dog next to the avid detailers.
Maybe I'll be able to clay bar in the next life.
It all depends upon if you have a wife and kids, a hot girlfriend or a good job.
If none of the above, you can spend a weekend on multiprocessing the black finish on your HHR.
I have the former, so I have to put up with a simple wash followed by a Meguire's Carnauba wax shine.
Looks better than many black cars out on the street, but not the top dog next to the avid detailers.
Maybe I'll be able to clay bar in the next life.
Senior Member
Joined: 06-29-2008
Posts: 166
From: Omaha, NE
To kill you first question on to wax or not wax. WAX! It protects the paint and body. the no-wax idea stems from driveway detailers that have used improper materials to polish/wax black or other dark paints. As a professional detailer for many years (I know not a glamorous job), I can tell you that it is all about the materials and the application. Use proper towels/micro fibers, buffer pads, and any preferred wax/polish. With the ultra this clear coats we have, i suggest staying away from clay bars as much as possible. Use a non-commercial, off the self cleaner wax to do harsh swirls, like Meguiers 3 step system. Good off the shelf system that is not very aggressive for a beginner. On the cleaner wax, try to use it only once every two years if possible. Polish every year once, and wax as needed. Then spray detail between waxes. Use an orbital slow speed buffer if this is your first dance on black. A high speed with a wool pad will burn through the clear and paint to easily for a first timer.
IMPORTANT thing here is to use proper polishing rag/micro fibers on black. Cheaper is just cheaper, not better. Usually better cloths/rags/micro fiber have better threading around the edges of the cloth. Cheap cloths sometimes use harsh poly threading to stitch the edges and that is bad news for black paint. Also if it hits the ground or cleans over a really dirty area, that towel is forever gone. Never use it again. I have four Absorber shamis and if one hit the ground it is washed many times before i use it. Point is that one small speck of crap can swirl the hell out of black, hence the idea came about to never wax black.
IMPORTANT thing here is to use proper polishing rag/micro fibers on black. Cheaper is just cheaper, not better. Usually better cloths/rags/micro fiber have better threading around the edges of the cloth. Cheap cloths sometimes use harsh poly threading to stitch the edges and that is bad news for black paint. Also if it hits the ground or cleans over a really dirty area, that towel is forever gone. Never use it again. I have four Absorber shamis and if one hit the ground it is washed many times before i use it. Point is that one small speck of crap can swirl the hell out of black, hence the idea came about to never wax black.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 10-19-2009
Posts: 18
From: new england
HHR Black Death...I would never knock being an auto detailer. There ain't nothing nicer or prettier then seeing a well detailed car rolling down the street. My wife's friends give me crap because I keep her Dodge Durango Hemi waxed, tires dressed and the chrome wheels popping all the time. It might not be the easiest job but I can tell you I get more satisfaction sneaking peeks out the window at my wifes Durango glistening in the sun then I ever do from my 9-5. Thanks for the info. No clay bar you say though? I've used it once but not on a black car. Pretty good results. Reading these posts is reminding me of a product I use to use years ago from 3M which was part of a numbered system of steps. You like any of the 3M stuff? I'm kind of partial to mothers. I've got a can of mothers 100% carb. in the garage. You think that coupled with a good cleaner wax and above grade applicators will do the trick? I'll check it out. Thanks
Senior Member
Joined: 06-29-2008
Posts: 166
From: Omaha, NE
Clay bars are great. i am just saying that some items are easy to get too aggresive with. The nature of a clay bar is already aggresive, so some newbies could get too aggresive with it or not realize that there are different levels of abrasiveness. I like most brands right now I am using the meguiers 3 step system. I am no longer a detailer, so i just use off the shelf stuff unless i have a real issue to deal with, like road paint. Whole deal with cleaner waxes and clay bars is to detail problem areas with out going over board.