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coolant pipe O-ring repair

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Old Oct 30, 2018 | 10:00 PM
  #1  
HannahsHHR's Avatar
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From: MN
coolant pipe O-ring repair

Hey guys, I'm trying to get the themostat housing off so I can replace the o-rings on the coolant pipe.

-removed the air intake
-removed the two hose attached to the thermostat housing
-removed the 2 bolts
that hold on the thermostat cover and thermostat since that's getting replaced
-removed 2 bolts that attach the thermostat housing to the block. Both had 10mm heads, one was short, the other long with a long shoulder on it.

I can't seem to find any additional bolts and I can't get the thermostat housing to budge off the engine block.

What am I missing here? I can't find anything useful in water pump or thermostat posts. Is there a 3rd bolt?
Old Oct 30, 2018 | 10:09 PM
  #2  
donbrew's Avatar
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This ebay link has many pix. Here is one.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...using&_sacat=0


Old Oct 30, 2018 | 10:19 PM
  #3  
HannahsHHR's Avatar
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From: MN
Originally Posted by donbrew
This ebay link has many pix. Here is one.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...using&_sacat=0


I never thought of searching for a used one on ebay for a better look. Genius! thanks!
Old Oct 30, 2018 | 10:35 PM
  #4  
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It's the bolt that's being blocked by the temp sensor that I need to remove. Maybe a 1/4 socket instead of a 3/8 will get back in there.....
Old Oct 31, 2018 | 06:12 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by HannahsHHR
It's the bolt that's being blocked by the temp sensor that I need to remove. Maybe a 1/4 socket instead of a 3/8 will get back in there.....
Can't you remove the temp sender?
Old Oct 31, 2018 | 07:11 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by Cat Man HHR
Can't you remove the temp sender?

While struggling to get the 1/4" 10mm socket onto the last bolt, I attempted to remove the sensor, but it's too tight to wrench it out easily.

I managed to eventually get the last bolt out without removing the sensor. It's really tight in there so a slimmer socket is needed for that last bolt.

So here is a full written write up of what to do.....

remove the air intake
unplug some of the wiring so you can move it out of the way for better access to the thermostat area
remove that bracket that's getting in the way and causing you to curse (one bolt attaches it to the engine)
remove the 2 hoses attached to the top of the thermostat(simple pliers got the hose clamps and a channel lock pliers helped free the hoses to get them off)
remove the 2 thermostat cover bolts and thermostat (use an 18 inch extension to make this super easy) (I think you can skip this step if you don't want to replace the thermostat, but it's worth checking up on it. Mine had some deformed rubber and was letting coolant pass by continuously)
remove the 3 bolts that attach the thermostat housing to the engine block (10mm 1/4" socket)
wiggle the thermostat housing off of the coolant pipe
pull the coolant pipe out of the water pump and slip it up through the engine bay

The bad O-ring was deformed and was flat on part of it. The O-ring on the water pump looked great, but might as well replace it if you are this far.

Replace both O-rings, replace the gasket between the thermostat housing and the engine block, and replace the thermostat and thermostat gasket.


Some of the rubber that is apart of the thermostat, not the gasket, had deformed and I believe that coolant was constantly running past the thermostat. time to replace.

I know some people replace the water pump if they go this far and then some people replace the engines timing chain if they go as far as to replace the water pump.... I'm stopping at the O-ring. The water pump requires a special tool for removal. Too much hassle and I despise this car.

Also, you may want to replace that rubber hose nub on the thermostat. Some people claim they get pin hole leaks over time, but wouldn't coolant hoses have the same issue? So I'm not too convinces that this is needed plus it's easy enough to get to at a later date.

Old Oct 31, 2018 | 08:30 AM
  #7  
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I tried to do it once without removing the exhaust pipe. Kudos to you! I just could not do it.
Old Oct 31, 2018 | 10:56 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by donbrew
I tried to do it once without removing the exhaust pipe. Kudos to you! I just could not do it.
I was cursing and swearing at it for a while. My hands and arms are scrapped up despite the gloves and long sleeve shirt.

You have to feel for the bolts while laying over the engine, with one hand shoved in the back and one on the side of the engine, and with two legs spread apart straddling the thing, and curse every other breath.

Two bolts on top and one on the bottom of the thermostat housing. All the edges on the bolts are kind of rounded off so they almost feel like they are just little nubs and my 6-point 10mm socket liked to slip off of them if I wasn't square up perfectly.

I can not find the rectangular gasket that goes between the thermostat housing and the engine block. I am going to coat it in a very, very thin layer of water pump/thermostat housing RTV to ensure I don't get a leak. The gasket did not look chewed up or deformed so I think this should be find with just a thin lay of RTV.

Also, you do not need access to the bottom of the car. I read some post that a mechanic needed a partner below the engine to get the coolant pipe and o-ring back into the water pump. I found you can just put one hand to the left and one to the right of the exhaust manifold, grab the pipe with both hands, and groan while you wiggle it in.
Old Oct 31, 2018 | 02:24 PM
  #9  
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That is not a gasket it is a O-ring. I think it is part #90537471 it is actually round, that might be why you can't find it.


Last edited by donbrew; Oct 31, 2018 at 02:59 PM.
Old Nov 1, 2018 | 10:45 AM
  #10  
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Inconceivable!



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