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Only use Mobil 1 Synthetic.
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Originally Posted by Catch 22
(Post 649532)
I use Mobil 1 or Quakerstate full synthetic 10w-30w with a NAPA Gold filter. I wouldn't use 5w anything in any engine that belongs to me. I change my oil/filter at 5000-6000 miles nomatter what the computer says
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Originally Posted by Catch 22
(Post 649532)
I use Mobil 1 or Quakerstate full synthetic 10w-30w with a NAPA Gold filter. I wouldn't use 5w anything in any engine that belongs to me. I change my oil/filter at 5000-6000 miles nomatter what the computer says
For Vehicles With the 2.2L or 2.4L L4 Engine Look for three things: • GM6094M Use only an oil that meets GM Standard GM6094M. • SAE 5W-30 SAE 5W-30 is best for the vehicle. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils such as SAE 20W-50. • American Petroleum Institute (API) starburst symbol Oils meeting these requirements should have the starburst symbol on the container. This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Notice: Use only engine oil identified as meeting GM Standard GM6094M and showing the American Petroleum Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by the vehicle warranty. (copied from the HHR owners manual) |
I've used regular ol castrol for many many years in all my 4 cylinder high revving engines. I drive the crap out of all my stuff and I have never had a engine failure or excessive oil burn.
I've owned a few full service gas stations over the years and worked on many cars. In my years of doing automotive work I can count the number of times on one hand cars that needed a engine overhaul, happens very little. The oil makes little difference IMHO. All the other parts wear long before an engine.....this should stir the pot :lol: |
^ What he said.....eng metals and oil are a science now..not that much of a factor unless..your pushing the limits...in other vehicles the main reason for running syn oil was to cut oil changes..for the amount of miles I was accumulating I had better things to do then be under the front end all the time( and the fact alot of my time was in the race car). Cars are so maintenance free anymore you almost have to post reminders to check things. I have about 55k on the SS and still 80% away from the 4th oil change.....
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The major issue with many of todays engines are they are now running hotter, running Turbochargers in family sedans and they are using the oil in the engine to cool the pistons to run higher compressions. Also in many engines the oils are now used as a hydraulic feature to adjust VVT cams etc.
There is much more demand on oils today and will be more demanded in the future. The time is coming where near every factory engine will require a syn oil. With oils it is not what you did over the last 20 years but what the MFG requires in the manual today. Much of this will be due to the wide spread use of Turbochargers and the use of oil cool pistons to run higher compressions. Engine oil temps today are higher than they ever have been. |
What you say is true in many aspects, I just feel people place waaaay to much emphasis on the correlation between oil type and engine longevity.
BTW, we have 3 turbo'ed cars. 2 1.8 GTI'S and a BMW 335i? The BMW uses euorpean synthetic castrol and we use regular ol' castrol in the 2 GTI'S, both have 100K and use zero oil between changes. |
It was once true that you could use oil made out of piss and go 100,000 miles but that is becoming more and more a thing that will not apply to newer engines.
Like many things that once were true will no longer apply with future engines and vehicles. |
I use Mobil 1. Change my oil once a year. But I only put around 6K on my HHR a year. Every March, I get my car inspected, tires rotated and oil changed at the local chevy dealer. Now I'm good to go for another year.
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