aradmahogany

Alright so first off I apologize for another thread about spark plugs but I figured it might help others who are as naive as me. I plan on replacing my spark plugs next weekend. I have read through all the previously created threads on spark plugs and changes but wanted to get some clear, final advice on the procedure, and make sure I will be going about it correctly. I already know how to get to the spark plugs so I will start there, right after pulling the plug boots off the plugs. I attached a pic of the plugs and socket I purchased, already have the 3/8 ratchet, and plan to buy the dielectric grease at O'riellys at the same time I get oil. After watching countless procedural videos and reading, I have a few questions. I am NOT using anti seize compound because of what I have read on this forum.

1. is it really a bad idea to reinsert the new plugs into the head using the socket and extension? I read and heard that this can lead to you unknowingly cross threading the threads, so I read that a lot of people use some sort of tubing/ fuel line or what have you, is that absolutely necessary and recommended by you guys?

2. When screwing down the new spark plug, do you hand tighten it until you cant go any further by hand and then turn it about a quarter turn by ratchet? OR do you tighten it by hand, then by ratchet, THEN when it seems to bottom out you tighten an additional quarter turn by ratchet?

3. The plugs come "pregapped"... Should I trust in that gap? I heard that attempting to adjust gap on iridium plugs is dangerous.

4. Is there anything else I should watch out for during the procedure that I have not mentioned?

5. BE GENTLE..... THIS IS MY FIRST TIME.

6. thank you

donbrew

1. assuming you know how to use a ratchet; that's OK.
2. If you are really worried there is a torque spec.
3. Do not touch the whisker on an Iridium plug in any way. The gap is preset for that reason.
4. many suggest anti-seize on the threads.
5. gentle enough?

RJ_RS_SS_350

My spark plug socket came with a rubber insert, which recently got lost when I let someone else use it. I had some 11/32" PCV hose left over from my catch can project which was a perfect replacement. I cut it so just enough sticks out of the socket where I can remove it easily.

If you don't have an insert, the plug will just fall out of the socket, possibly closing up the gap or damaging the electrode.

I just looked up the socket you ordered, it has a magnet and has good reviews, so you shouldn't have that problem.

The torque spec is 15 ft lbs. I turn it by hand until the rubber hose slips on the plug, and then it barely turns at all and clicks for 15 ft lbs. I would say it's much less than 1/4 turn. Of course my torque wrench may not be very accurate at such a low setting, so I hope someone chimes in if their experience is much different.

I haven't used anti-seize. I've had the plugs out several times with no problems. Just wait til the engine is cold.

And BTW, I think these are valid questions.

donbrew

I would say "warm" for the temp, but I've never had a prob.
My spark plug wrench is way too tight, I have to add a bit of "biological" lubricant (spit), so I can get the thing off.
Basically, be sure to crush the washer/gasket just a bit, if there is one (I don't remember).

aradmahogany

I was just worried about cross threading by using the socket/extension itself to screw the spark plug in but I am assuming if the threads are lining up right, then it will go in smooth as silk and, if it gives resistance, just back of and try again, right? Knowing myself I will probably go with the rubber line method to start the spark plug in. I am always overly cautious.

whopper

yes, way overly cautious, and overthinking it way too much. It's not a complex task at all.

Just like ANY fastener, if it does not go together easily, back off and retry.

One trick - turn the socket/extension BACKWARDS until you hear/feel a click as the threads align properly - then turn it clockwise to start the thread.

Oldblue

I always use anti seize, just a bit!
I don't recall a crush washer, I believe our plugs are a tapered seat!
AC Delco 41-103 in my 2007 2.2
Tight then 1/8 turn.

pg318

The 1/4 turn rule is for the plugs with the crushable sealing washers, these have taper seats and reach torque very quickly after seating hand tight. A torque wrench is a good idea if you don't trust yourself to estimate the torque by feel, there's a decent length of thread engagement, but messing up the thread in the head is an expensive repair.

aradmahogany

So both Oldblue and pg318...... I tighten by hand until tight then another eighth turn by ratchet? Not outing anybody else input but, just making sure. I can trust myself to tighten correctly that way if that s the right way.

Oldblue

I've followed this method of tightening tapered seat spark plugs for years! Never had an issue , finger tight with plug socket and extension!
Then 1/8 turn with the ratchet handle, so 12 o'clock to 1:30 only, not 2 o'clock, just to 1:30!!!