I was not clear and I meant at Advance; that is Mobil1 full syn oil and Mobil1 filter the EP upgrade is to Mobil1 EP oil. They have these deals at least every other month, the catch is they may not stock that filter number so you have them order it. The ad says "ANY Mobil1 filter" it says nothing about price or in stock, sometimes they do say filter up to $8.99 or something you pay the difference.

If Zone has it most likely Advance/Oreilly/Pep has it. Bottom line is check oil change specials on the internets, you do not have to go to the store. Just because you don't like a big box store (I do hate doing biz with Zone) doesn't mean you can't save money there.

 

You can set up an online account w/ Advance (& the others, I would think).... I have, & get notified by email when my fav stuff is on sale..

 

I didn't know they had a High Mileage M1 oil, good to know Thanks

 

Yeah, Mobil produces a couple of oils that are commonly found in the big box stores like WalMart......

Mobil 1, Mobile 1 Extended Performance, Mobil 1 High Mileage. If you care, the first 2 are dexos1 approved by GM, in the recommended viscosities. The last is not.

I've been using the Extended Performance, for quite a while, because of the additional additive package.

I believe several members have been using the High Mileage.

 

Generally if you keep up your oil changes and if there are no issues with a engine the extra additive oils are not needed. They will not hurt anything but for the most part they address issues with some engines or poor care. If there is nothing wrong with your engine save the money and just buy the standard version of the oil.

I think of these extra oils like the paint protection at the dealer when you buy a new car. Good for those who do not keep their cars in top condition but if you regularly wash and wax your car it is not needed.

It will not save a lot of money but a few buck is a few bucks if you do not need that extra piece of mind.

In the old days with the standard oils these oils did help since the tolerances of the engines were poorer and the quality of the seals were much less. There was never a Pontiac built that did not leak at the rear main. Many other cars had their own leak areas. Today leaks are rare and engine internal part failures are even more rare.

But if you want to use it these will not hurt a thing.

 

Alot of "info" and "misinfo" flyng on this topic and not only on this site. the bottom line is if you really want to know what your oil brand is doing in your or to your motor; GET IT AYNALIZED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Every thing else is just "Blah,blah, blah!!! It's not rocket science, BUT it is science!!! read it and understand it! then you'll see the difference in oil brands and formula's. my .02 cents....

 

To be honest I have watched people for years get oil analyzed and for the most part it give them a good feeling but they never really do much with it or even understand it for the most part.

The fact is that most of todays engine are beyond anything we have ever seen in street cars in tolerances and abilities. Todays oils are even better now than ever.

I can remember people with cars that never changed oil in the past or rarely and while the engine was not pretty it still goes on to out live the vehicle. One owner I know had me change his oil at 70,000 miles for the first time. He said he bought the little truck for economy and that is what he was going to get. The oil was like gear oil but I changed it. As time went on I watched as the truck easily cleared 200,000 miles and was still going when the owner passed away.

Now I do not recommend this treatment in any way but the point is that many people make such a stink on oil that it becomes a religion or almost like a political party to them. I even had customer get into arguments on what oil to use. One had me remove his car and he came back after the other guy left.

While Oil is important and proper service will help reduce the probability of future issues the fact is the margin of error on oils and engine life is a pretty wide path.

Now while I will recommend Synthetic oils all day I will not condemn dino oils in anyway if properly used. They are very products today but the synthetics are just better at many thing and just give you an edge. In cases of Turbo Charged engines they are must for the cooling of the turbo bearing.

Now you can get your oil analyzed and such and change oils and such but generally if your check engine light is off and you service the car like it should be with the proper grade of oil regardless of brand you will have an engine that will out live the body and suspension of the vehicle.

Not directing this to anyone here but I think some people need to have them selves aynalized more than their oil.

Don't get caught up in the hype of marketing. Generally most oils are nearly identical to the others that are of the same grade and standards. Oils are much like a ruler where the inch is a set standard and SAE and the other grade ensure that they all meet the same standard. SAE also has done the same for the nuts and bolts in your car. In the early years MFG used what ever size bolt or nut they had made. SAE came in and standardized fasteners so that everyone uses the same size and grade now.

Oil companies try hard to set themselves apart because the fact is they are much closer to each other than they want to admit.

I know some will not agree here but it is what it is.

The best thing you can do about oil is be informed and read up on reliable reports and info on oil. You will some widely common beliefs are not always true and you will learn that things are not as they always appear. If you do read up avoid the marking of the companies as this is what has clouded the market. Things like the old bearing trick on the grinding stone goes back to the 50's but they still do it today and act like it means something.

One thing to take note is if a company recommends an oil or a standard I would stick to what they recommend. Not only because of warranty but the fact the MFG is the one standing behind the warranty for 100,000 miles. They will want you to use the best oil to prevent you from bring them a broken engine. Car companies may skimp in some areas but in areas that may cost them a expensive warranty claim they will not cheap out. This is why they fill the HHR SS with Mobil One Syn oil, GM learned their lesson on the T type Buicks in the 80 that would puke a turbo in 30,000 miles. The first one was on them but the owner paid for those after that. Since then they added water cooling to the turbo and syn oils to protect the bearing from coking. No longer do you have to sit and cool a turbo down.

In the old days it was common to change bearings and rings in an engine before 100,000 miles and today it is uncommon to do this unless you are saving an old engine in a Vette or other performance application.

I work in the performance aftermarket and deal with warranties. I know what breaks and why. I seldom see an issue with oil creating an issue. The only thing we see much of is poorly broken in cams because the installer did not use the break in oil additive you need to use today since they removed the Zinc from the oil of today to keep from plugging up converter. Yes much of the changes in oil and fuel today are geared to make converters live longer.

 

Here is a web site I recommend as it is one of the better ones not MFG driven. It is from out of the country but the same principles apply.

I would look for sites like this and there are even some good automotive text books out that will tech you oils and other engine systems. Have gone thought these in collage I learned the basics there and had to keep up since. What used to be true is not always true today so watch old info and old advice.

Also there are some good tech magazines. Many are offered only to service people but you can often find them in their waiting rooms.

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

Gee hyperv6, you must be reading my mind!

What converter are you talking about? I followed right to there.

 

Cat converter......this is exactly the point of all my rants..oil is being overhyped..its not the 50's anymore where the oil was used directly from the ground ( sarcasm intended) and one had to watch what was used..Today its all about preference. Yes, there are oils BETTER then others..but..does your driving/vehicle warrent the extra expense? Do you drive at max rpm under heavy loads and run your eng at its extreme limits? Or does it stay garaged except for the most clearest cloudless days? Or maybe it just runs around town begging to be gawked at by the uneducated. Is it stock? And adding bolt ons doesnt change the fact that the engine internals are still straight from the factory, its still stock.
Well then run the factory oil or whatever your favorite Nascar driver endorses and leave the exotics for the exotic engines and those who have money to burn. Oil has come a long way and other then physically running out of oil there hasnt been a direct oil failure in years ( in a stock engine). Its always non oil related parts failures. Oil has gotten where its the same as comparing Demcrats to 'publicans...alot of my "oil is better then yours" and "this is the way its always been so thats the way I will always do it".
Here is something to think about..rough numbers....syn lasts twice as long as dino oil, syn cost twice as much as dino oil..though,syn has better flow and heat properties, it doesn't coke under normal conditions. So based on that, choose the type that fits your program, choose the brand that tickles your fancy. If you can't make up your mind, or completely dont understand anything about oil, RTFM and use what is recommended.
here is another hint..the SS is rated at 155 mph and 6200 rpm...it has a 100,000 mile warranty..do you really think GM would recommend an oil that could not hold up to this?
So if its good enough for the the SS, its good enough for the lawnmower..( exaggerated of course)