For those that don't know this little noise tip.
For those that don't know this little noise tip.
How many of us have gone over a rough road or taken a hard left or right turn and heard an irrataing noise from the rear compartment?
Me For One !!!
On the New (used) 2LT I just purchased, I kept hearing some noises in the back and decided to take the time to take everything out and slowly re-assemble it fixing every possible thing I could find that might make noises.
First I took out the spare tire and checked the air pressure only to find it had 45psi. I took it down the street to Les Schwab and had it filled to 60psi with there "dry air".
Then I meticulouisly put everything back together insulating and using closed cell self stick materials to dampen any touch spots and the like.
Used my hand and fist to pound and tap everthing that might be a problem as I went along.
Then I cleaned and applied Sil Glide silicone grease to the plastic/rubber plates on both sides of the rear hatch. I use it on my hood bumpers as well.
Then I cleaned the rear hatch Latch on the bottom of the opening and lubed it with Mercury Marine Grease.
Then I test drove it and though it was quieter, but there was still a binding metal noise at times.
DAMN .... What could that be???
After thinking about it and then opening the hatch and starring for a while, it hit me .......
The bottom latch bracket does not make contact on the top. It makes contact on the rear side.
All the lube in the world ain't gonna do it if it's in the wrong place.
I then Lubed the Latch and relubed the latch bracket in the correct spot.
It's an easy mistake, especially on a fairly new car as there is not much of a wear point showing when looking at the latch bracket.
NOISE GONE......
Check yours out ..... Clean and Lube it.
SF
Me For One !!!
On the New (used) 2LT I just purchased, I kept hearing some noises in the back and decided to take the time to take everything out and slowly re-assemble it fixing every possible thing I could find that might make noises.
First I took out the spare tire and checked the air pressure only to find it had 45psi. I took it down the street to Les Schwab and had it filled to 60psi with there "dry air".
Then I meticulouisly put everything back together insulating and using closed cell self stick materials to dampen any touch spots and the like.
Used my hand and fist to pound and tap everthing that might be a problem as I went along.
Then I cleaned and applied Sil Glide silicone grease to the plastic/rubber plates on both sides of the rear hatch. I use it on my hood bumpers as well.
Then I cleaned the rear hatch Latch on the bottom of the opening and lubed it with Mercury Marine Grease.
Then I test drove it and though it was quieter, but there was still a binding metal noise at times.
DAMN .... What could that be???
After thinking about it and then opening the hatch and starring for a while, it hit me .......
The bottom latch bracket does not make contact on the top. It makes contact on the rear side.
All the lube in the world ain't gonna do it if it's in the wrong place.
I then Lubed the Latch and relubed the latch bracket in the correct spot.
It's an easy mistake, especially on a fairly new car as there is not much of a wear point showing when looking at the latch bracket.
NOISE GONE......
Check yours out ..... Clean and Lube it.
SF
Last edited by Silverfox; Oct 1, 2012 at 10:13 AM.
There loose when there New so as that lets them move around ..they just loosen more.
Part of the problem is that they are loose all over. Tightening just one spot doesn't fix it.
I will revisit that issue on the new 2LT I just purchased when I get a better fix in mind.
I'm still living with the fix on my 1LT done a while back.
Good Point to mention though.
SF
Comes right out with do grip damage.
So they are re-usable & grab tight..
Hey, being she's sleeping, maybe I should go out to the shop & swap some pins
Seriously, I am gonna grab some from the mopar dealer for a couple loose ones I have rtv'd in..
Ditto, but the wifeys Mopar has different style plastic pins, (2 piece pin) you lift the center head & that releases the grips on the sides..(kinda like anchor bolts)..
Comes right out with do grip damage.
So they are re-usable & grab tight..
Hey, being she's sleeping, maybe I should go out to the shop & swap some pins
Seriously, I am gonna grab some from the mopar dealer for a couple loose ones I have rtv'd in..
Comes right out with do grip damage.
So they are re-usable & grab tight..
Hey, being she's sleeping, maybe I should go out to the shop & swap some pins
Seriously, I am gonna grab some from the mopar dealer for a couple loose ones I have rtv'd in..
Sizing will be the first step.
Keep us posted if you will.
One of my thoughts was to just drill a small pilot hole alongside the existing plastic plugs and install a stainless or black coated sheet metal screw into the plastic backer. Then just snug the screw up carefully with a little clear or black marine silicone adhesive under the head to keep it from backing out.
Sizing the proper screw would also be critical to make sure you have large enough threads to hold. Probably a 12 or 14 but I would have to look carefully first.
SF


