11bluemn

Hi anyone run into this? I didn't see/find a thread on it.
2011 LS 87000
My door locks are getting tired, I click once the drivers door lock goes up half way, second click the other doors unlock, third click and the drivers door will go up the rest of the way.
But occasionally that isn't enough and I have to try getting in any door I can and pulling the lock up by hand.

Also when I put it in park it only goes up half way, but then I am inside to just pull the lock up.
I have never opened the door/taken interior panel off, but see a drawing on here the mechanism that pushes the button up is down inside the latch.
So it looks like oiling it would mean opening up the door to get to the right spot.

Anybody seen this, time oil it. or is the lock just wore out,
Thanks

Doc brown

This was a really common issue on old GMs. I've had success with a couple of old Olds Cutlasses and greasing the shaft at the solenoid. I'm not sure if you can still do that but it's certainly worth a try. I haven't had lock slowness issues on any newer GM vehicle (2000+).

donbrew

Was the door trim panel taken off and reinstalled before this started?

Normally the cause is the plunger wire hangs up on the door innards. There is a channel it is supposed to ride in, but is fairly difficult to notice. Other cause could be the plunger is binding on the hole in the panel. The panel gets misshaped from time and temperature and arms hanging on the sill.

11bluemn

I am the original owner, it has not been opened. Car has had very little done to it, just maintenance.
Was going to run some oil down the hole where the button is, but see it will probably never get down to where its needed.
Something could be warped, but I don't see it.
Thanks still thinking

donbrew

The panel is plastic, plastic warps with heat and age. The "channel" inside is an indentation in the foam insulation, that can move or warp with heat and age and vibration. Dripping oil down the hole will only cause a mess.

Could be the wire has gotten bent from use. Could be the place were the wire connects to the lock has worn or bent, it is just a plastic bushing.

If you don't take the panel off and look at it you will never know. I would encourage you to at least take the panel off and inspect the plunger and wire, being aware that there is a right and a wrong place for the wire. Heck, it might save you $300 dollars.

Way down my list is a new lock mechanism, maybe just some graphite.

Y

Conax

My '09 LS does this, but the lock snaps up with authority if it is operated with the door's button. Only with the remote do I get the half-hearted attempts.
Would this be due to a dodgy remote or is the lock mechanism the culprit? It works great from the interior without using the fob.

Oldblue

Conax

I put new battery in it about two weeks ago, O.B. I know the driver door lock is tired but my fob got to where (with the new battery) it just stopped working all together. I ordered two new ones and have a shop lined up that will program the car to them.
I'll probably have to get in there and check that channel and lube the thing.
We'll see.

Oldblue

Conax

Yesss. White lithium is good stuff.