Thank you. I will have to go and get that stuff. I am going to use sinthetic oil so I can go 6k or more between changes.

 

Do we need to mention about the oil cap ????

Be very careful reinstalling. It is a composite plastic with threads that "match" to aluminum threads in the housing. They can be stripped very easily.

 

So hand tightin it first?

 

Yeah, if you wish. My point, in the original post on this thread, is to assure the threads match up before you "crank down".


Opps, when I say crank down, I don't mean to use all your muscle. I mean........, before you're serious about threading it all the way then applying a little torque.

There is a spec. for how tight. Don't know what it is. I just snug it. Then check back later for leaks (which I have never had). The point here, is to not over tighten and "pull" the threads......just snug.

Oh, thought I would mention..... Was in Home depot and saw the correct size socket for $4.00. That is a lot different than the chrome plated Craftsman for near $20. Home Depot's was black oxide, but heck, for $16.00 difference....hhmmmmmmmm

 

Don't forget the Oil!!!!

 

I think there is some very small lettering on the cap that says "25 nm". <--- Updated value
Was it a normal socket, or the 6 sided socket like the Lisle 14700 socket?

In another thread on here, someone said they can get to the drain plug without raising the HHR. They must be really skinny or have really long arms.
I looked under mine the other day and thought "how in hell did he get to that without raising it?"

 

To add to TomsHHR comment, don't forget a filter, too!

As for sockets, any 32 mm or 1-1/4" socket should be fine. Mine was only about $3 at an auto parts store. A long extension makes it much easier.

Snoopy was right on about hand starting, which should apply to any threaded item.

Never confirmed the 16 N-m, but that equates to 12 lb-ft or 144 lb-in, which ain't much. Too much torque can break the cap or tear up the O-ring.

For drain plug access, ramps are the easiest. For safety, do not get under the car with just a jack supporting it! If using a jack, use stands also.

For draining, look at your local auto parts store for a pan / tub combination. Makes it easy for draining and taking the old oil for recycling. My local AutoZone has free recycling; check with yours.

Finally, when you're done, congratulate yourself, have a cold one and don't forget to reset the DIC.

 

Do you guys replace the crush washer each time you put the oil plug back in?

 

Thanks for the conversion, JoeR. I think 12-15 lb/ft is about finger tight, if I'm not mistaken.

Black Rose......really don't remember how many point. I had purchased mine from Sears already. Do remember it was short walled.

Also, I purchased a "bag" of crush washers from the dealer, a year ago, just because the dealer generally replaces them on an oil change (charges $1.00). I paid about $3.50 for a dozen). So, yes sometimes I replace...but sometimes no . Over the years, never really had any leak on me. But I change when I remember.

 

Know of any good cheap places to get the filter.. Gosh its expencive.