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updated pics with more drop and my new system

Old Apr 26, 2012 | 07:11 AM
  #21  
Devils950003's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: 07-05-2009
Posts: 388
From: High Bridge
Originally Posted by JWOO
Nice drop. U should get some spacers n flush the wheels
Agree with this.

The SS badges really have to go...it's so obviously NOT an SS, but the thread-starter already knows that. But it's detracting big-time from what is a pretty nice ride. Fake badging:
Old Apr 26, 2012 | 07:38 AM
  #22  
chefhhr's Avatar
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Joined: 03-09-2012
Posts: 1,430
From: Atlanta
Wow people still cut springs?!
Old Apr 26, 2012 | 08:09 PM
  #23  
Joe Schulte's Avatar
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Joined: 09-09-2011
Posts: 372
From: South Haven, MI
Originally Posted by chefhhr
Wow people still cut springs?!
Apparently .

I won't get into any further, to each their own.
Old Apr 26, 2012 | 09:18 PM
  #24  
Putter's Avatar
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Joined: 05-22-2010
Posts: 581
From: Puckett, Mississippi
Originally Posted by chefhhr
Wow people still cut springs?!
When you can't buy ready-made ones that get the stance you want...


My cut springs were (**WERE**) on a '69 C-10 PU. But that was 20+ years ago.

But the positive side is....
At least they weren't HEATED!
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 07:06 AM
  #25  
chefhhr's Avatar
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Joined: 03-09-2012
Posts: 1,430
From: Atlanta
My whole thing with cutting springs is this...why buy aftermarket and cut when you can just cut your factory? The idea behind buying aftermarket springs is for handling, ride quality, performance, etc....so when you cut your new $200+ aftermarket springs, you take all that and throw it out the window. If you just want the look, cut your factory springs and save yourself $200+. 20 years ago this was more acceptable because they didn't make performance springs for all vehicles so if you wanted that low look, you had no choice but cut or heat your factory springs. The ride quality of older lowered vehicles is something less than comfortable...lol.
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 08:13 AM
  #26  
firemangeorge's Avatar
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Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,721
From: Alabama
Confused on this cutting of springs. It was discussed a while back on this forum. The opinions were that it's hard to do correctly with HHR springs.Why?
Because of the spring design of being a tapered or progressive design or whatever it's called. If you cut off a half coil or so,then you have altered the end that sits in the perch. In turn, if the spring doesn't mount in the perch area straight, it will be "****ed" to the side. This would seem to lead to possible rubbing or even binding issues.
Could someone clear this up for me. If it's as easy as cutting my stock springs to get the lower stance, then I'm all over this.
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 08:33 AM
  #27  
Putter's Avatar
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Joined: 05-22-2010
Posts: 581
From: Puckett, Mississippi
As mentioned above, all the research and development that went into making the spring act and respond as intended will be thrown out the window....meaning you may bottom out, you may allow more body-roll, you may not be able to load the cargo area as full as usual, etc.... but you will get the stance you want.
I agree with chefhhr about defeating the purpose of BUYING aftermarket 'performance' springs by whacking away at them.
(I have only cut factory ones....ever)
Old Apr 30, 2012 | 01:18 PM
  #28  
mike321's Avatar
Thread Starter
Member
 
Joined: 12-16-2011
Posts: 55
From: mission texas
Had a talk to the guy that did my work and he said that you could cut the factory springs but from the bottom only because on top it has a spin that is need to sit right
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