My hhr is an 06 2.2. Long story short i rebuilt the engine. The used crank i hand polished, musured. Then noticed it was the newer crank with the other reluctor ring, i orderd the aftermarket 6+1 or whatever. After i got it together and installed in the car. I had issues with looooong crank then start eventually. I had the code come up with a bad crank sensor, i orderd a new one from autozone. I replaced the icm/ coils. I put about 300 miles on it.Then one day i had no spark, no tach movment on the dash.
yesterday when i got the car running again i had p0172-00 and p0300-00
I found the connector on the icm is loose, wiggling the white wire made it un happy. I pushed the wire in further it cleared up, i need to get a new connector from a junk yard. After i got it running agai yesterday i did the crank sensor relurn, it drove to town fine. Today i have no spark again. I disconnected the crank sensor i have 2.5 volts on both yellow and purple wire from ecm, i assume it should be 5v? I stripped the wire loom back to the ecm no dammaged wires, with the connector removed from the ecm i tested the wires to the sensor showing no shorts to ground or open wires. With the harness connected to the ecu both yellow and purple wire has some resistance to ground. I completely remove the ecm from the car.i checked the big groud pin to the 2 crank sensor pins on the ecm i had some resistance, i dont remember the value 1.7 ohms? I dont know if i have a bad computer? Before i did that. I did the fuse box bolts, i then took the fuse box out and checked the pins and connectors on the bottom side. Everything checked out.
. My battery is good it passed the old school big metal load testor.
after tsting the crank sensor voltage today the only code is p0335-00 wich is to be expected. But now it wont clear

 

 

My 06 is 2 wire, purple and a yellow.

 

Another thing my coolent hose dripped down onto the alternator, the 2 pin connector isn't clipping in tight, i haven't really looked into that. I dont have any battery/charging lights or codes fir that so im assuming its not causing issues, another thing i found odd,is my cooling fan has never came on ever. I cant even command it on with my scanner. All fuses look good, and i have voltage to the fuse and relay

 

Well you did the testing to prove you need a new fan motor. That is assuming that you have looked at the fan when the AC compressor is running, or when the coolant temp is over 219F.

Why would you assume either lead of the sensor should be 5V? It generates a frequency. I was looking at 2007 by accident.

 

While trouble shooting the crank sensor with the key off, ecm disconnected, while probing the crank sensor pins on the ecm harness #66 and 67, the sensor was generating somewhere in the 1.x volts while cranking. I jumped the starter silenoid to the positive post on the fuse box

 

Looking at you schematic there is no positive to the sensor just low ref (digital ground) and output signal;. It is a Hall effect device. The voltage is of no consequence it is the frequency that the computer sees.
The sensor counts the number of teeth that pass by it in a given amount of time.

In a 2006 with wasted spark ignition your problem is most likely in the ignition module

 

tried responding a couple times but it didn't post, hopefully this time it will.

When testing for key on voltage from the ecm i have 2.5 volts on #66 and #67 the yellow and the purple. I tested both wires individually with my meter to ground and got the 2.5 volts. Testing the sensor in the car, the sensor "generated about 0.9 to 1.xx volts.

Today, i had the battery in the house overnight, i looked at the small connector on the alternator, it wont clip in, the pins look straight, the reson i looked at that, my scanner showed 12.5-12.6v while running the other day. Also the otherday i noticed the ground on the drivers side shock tower has 2 grounds. The smaller one had corrosion on it and it was pulled fairly tight. I just quick snipped, stripped, and tightened under the nut, today i extended that little wire as it was pulled tight and put a circle connector on it. I put my battery in, i had r.p.m. reading on the dash, it spit and sputterd for a few minutes, it finally started up, it ran smooth, no stored or pending codes, scanner shows no miss fires, and now charging at 14.5 volts. Im going to head into town in a couple hours. Im not sure if having the battery out over night fixed it or the ground, or messing with the alternator wire. Ill have to look for a couple new connectors for sure.

 

Thank you for the information on the crank signal, im new to the electrical trouble shooting, its so easy to over think things.
i did put in a new icm after testing the old one. It tested bad. Then the coils were only sparking on #2 and 3 so i got a new coil. Still had starting ussues so i checked the icm again. It tested bad so i exchanged it. This was last week. I found the white wire going to the icm is loose in the connector, i pushed it in tight for now, i need a new connector for that and the alternator.

 

How did you test the ICM? Do you understand wasted spark? The coils spark in 2 cylinders each time regardless of stroke, compression or power.

I meant compression or exhaust.