memotronics

Problem: My remote start doesn't start the car. (This used to work)

Diagnosis:

#1 - It's not the fob or battery, they are new and all other features (lock, unlock, horn) work fine. Also, when I try to remote-start, the car's lights do flash, so it "knows" what I'm trying to do
#2 - Remote start is enabled.
#3 - According to my scan tool, my car thinks that the key is in the ignition even when it's not. I think that's what's causing the remote start to not work, and I believe that this is "by design"

Questions:

1.) Does the lock assembly actually have a key-in-ignition switch or sensor ? Or is my scan-tool just "making it up" ?
2.) Easy Fix ?
3.) Does the number of flashes tell me the reason why it doesn't start ?

One thing I noticed: When the key is not in the ignition and I open the driver door, the ding-ding-ding starts. Back in the old days when everything was working, I don't think this used to happen (unless I actually left the key in the ignition when opening the door). I'm getting old so my memory may be unreliable... If someone has a 2010 HHR, can you quickly test this and let me know: With key removed, open driver door. Ding-Ding or not ?

Thanks !!!

donbrew

Yes, there is a key in sensor. Has the ignition recall been done?

Oldblue

Knowing these cars like we do, yes it could be the ignition switch.
Is the hood closed, the sensor will disable the RS if it’s ajar or open.
The remote start won’t work if there are any MIL codes, you didn’t verify if there are any. Simply, is the check engine light on?
However, try a battery lobotomy, simply disconnect the negative cable from the battery in the back by the spare tire, a full 30 minutes.
This will reset the computers and should clear the issue, you will have to reset the clock on the radio and the presets , but it’s free and if it doesn’t work . Then go on to the ignition switch.
If the ignition switch recall was preformed the ignition key will have a small round hole in the plastic for the key ring


Like this

memotronics

Ignition Switch recall was performed. Check Engine light is off, and no codes.

My key is just like in your picture, with the + in the circle.

I started disassembling the lock, and I couldn't find a physical key-inserted switch, so I assume the signal comes from the TDM module with the coil. Here's the weird thing: I disconnected the little connector from the back of the TDM. Engine still starts. I think something is WHACK !!!

I did have a new battery put in a couple of weeks ago, the previous battery had died and the car was sitting with the dead battery for a while.

I'll try the disconnect tomorrow. Is there an easier way (under the hood, preferably) to disconnect? I have so much junk in the trunk :-)

Oldblue

No, no easy way. And only the negative cable.
we have seen new batteries not fully charged and or a dead cell .
use your VOM what is the static voltage

donbrew

This is the 21st century, cars are wired differently now.
The brown wire on the TDM is ACC voltage, not what you think. The red/wht is power. Black is ground. Green is the data line.

If your problem was the TDM the ant-theft light would be on.

FileNotFound

Hmm well I only see 6 postings here all from 7/7/20. So here goes.. I have an LS bought it new March 06. Current 298,675 miles. Now, regarding ignition/key etc. I had the recall fix done back when it was plastered all over the threads. BUT here's what I have determined to be the problem from symptoms shown above... When removing the key from the ignition there should be small distinguishable pop and visible movement of the key way and cover popping flush with the surrounding cowl. Mine has finally stopped that little function, which leaves the assembly behaving as if in key is still inserted mode. With that being activated yet (NOT popping out) the drivers power door lock will pop right back up just like when the key is in ignition, and the dings keep going off until the door is closed. On mine I have to physically press the lock shaft down on the door if I really want the door locked. So remote start will not work either... I've just this evening taken the cowling off the steering column and will be removing the assembly myself to see what I can do with it. In the past I've gone through the lock ease / graphite etc which helped for a while... It's just worn out. So that's my 2¢

hhrumadbruh

How did ya get factory remote start on a 2010?

Oldblue

Factory remote start was available from the 2006 model year

donbrew

2010-2011 was special order option.