2010 Chevy HHR 2.2L 225K Miles



Recently picked up a new to me HHR with electrical gremlins



Previous owner said that he was having no issues, parked the car to install brakes, returned a few days later, dead battery, PO swapped in a new battery, they claim that when attempting to install battery cable, there was “a large arc” the horn started blasting and windshield wipers moving. Said he removed the cable and that’s how he left it.



I assumed some sort of short or bad grounds, even considered the fuse block bolts or that the PO installed the battery with reversed polarity. However the asking price was low so onto the trailer and back to the shop she came with me.



Got her back to the shop, long story short I can hook the battery up without any arcing but I have a No Crank condition.

Cleaned all grounds per this post



https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...cations-56504/



Plugged in the scan tool and got some information



U2106-00 Lost Communication With Transmission

Control System



U2108-00 Lost Communication With Antilock

Brake System (ABS)/Traction Control System (TCS)



U2113-00 Lost Communication With Sensing And Diagnostic Module (SDM)



U2116-00 Lost Communication With Instrument

Panel Cluster (IPC)



U2113 Lost Communication With Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module



B1000-3C ECU Performance



C0000-71 Vehicle Speed Information Circuit Invalid

Serial Data Received



I thought that it was odd, I inspected wiring and connections, disassembled cleaned and reinstalled all at the BCM insider the cabinets

I rechecked the grounds that control any/ all of these. Grounds are freshly cleaned and check good with a multimeter.

I was lost, tried adding additional ground jumper to both the ECU and TCM exterior cases respectfully. No change in codes or no crank condition



Slapped a junk yard BCM in (I know it needs programmed) I was hopping for a difference in codes or no crank condition



I tried unplugging ECU, and TCM and rescanning with them unplugged, except a lack of communication with those specific modules, no change in codes or condition.



It’s not the antitheft security lockout as far as I can tell, symbol disappears on the dash after a second, plus I can see in the antitheft system via scan tool that there is a key in the ignition.





What should my next direction be? I’m lost and could sure use a bit of direction if anyone has the time to offer any, I would greatly appreciate it!

 

Did you look at the fuse next to the battery ground? That fuse is where the power for the Computer part of the BCM comes from.

 

Fuse checked good with meter, also I have 12V at BCM, plus interior lights.

 

There are a couple of fuses in the under hood box that feed power to the BCM fuses that is why I specified "computer part".
Get rid of those Facebook ground wires! The only reason they might be needed is if you tested the ground wires in the connectors and they failed.
Have you tested all of the fuses and relays? Is there 12 volts to the starter, not the solenoid? Is there 12 volts to the alternator? both should be always hot.

 

What is the static voltage of the battery? Less then 12.4 volts, new battery time!

have you cleaned the ground at the battery area, the transmission lug and the rad cradle ground? Is the ignition switch working properly?
are the positive cables at the fuse box clean and tight? Is there only one red wire going to the lug in the fuse box, for the electric power steering?
are the starter and alternator positive wires clean and tight?
sometimes going back over the work you have done, reveals something you might have missed.

 

The forward lug on the under hood fuse box should have 2 wires connected, 1 from the battery and 1 to the starter. The rearward lug should have 1 wire going to the power steering.
Many people think that the under hood fuse box is the battery. Is it possible the previous owner caused the arcing there? Did they change the battery?
All of those lost communication codes indicate a loss of power to the modules. Maybe the power train relay

 

 

[QUOTE=donbrew;959235]There are a couple of fuses in the under hood box that feed power to the BCM fuses that is why I specified "computer part".
Get rid of those Facebook ground wires!

Which fuses would you say?
ground jumpers removed, I figured it could help diagnose.


The only reason they might be needed is if you tested the ground wires in the connectors and they failed.
Have you tested all of the fuses and relays?

I have continuity tested all fuses with ‘exposed contacts’ the larger ones I pulled and check across the blades. Both in the BCM and the under hood fuse box As for the relays, I have only checked them by swapping known functional relays in but not other electrical testing on the relays. today I also checked for voltage in both sides of exposed contacts

Is there 12 volts to the starter, not the solenoid?

I have power at the starter solenoid, not sure I understand how to check to the starter but not the solenoid?

Is there 12 volts to the alternator? both should be always hot.

yes sir

 

[QUOTE=Oldblue;959237]What is the static voltage of the battery? Less then 12.4 volts, new battery time!
brand new battery, and while doing my testing and during the in between times the battery is hooked to a 2a charger

have you cleaned the ground at the battery area, the transmission lug and the rad cradle ground?

yes, just about ever ground has been cleaned twice.

Is the ignition switch working properly?
yes? I haven’t tested electrically but my scan tool shows I get a ‘crank’ signal when I turn the key.

are the positive cables at the fuse box clean and tight? Is there only one red wire going to the lug in the fuse box, for the electric power steering?

yes and yes per the pic below. I’m missing rubber cover but wiring it’s the same for lugs on left side of fuse block

are the starter and alternator positive wires clean and tight?
yes sir recleaned them and retightened tonight.

sometimes going back over the work you have done, reveals something you might have missed.
this statement is so very true. One of my old mentors used to say “it’s not what I don’t know that got me into trouble, but the things I thought I knew absolutely”

 

[QUOTE=donbrew;959239]The forward lug on the under hood fuse box should have 2 wires connected, 1 from the battery and 1 to the starter. The rearward lug should have 1 wire going to the power steering.

this wiring is correct minus the protective rubber, clean connections

Many people think that the under hood fuse box is the battery. Is it possible the previous owner caused the arcing there?

possible but he seemed like a straight shooter, and was honest about the arcing at the battery that was happening, old core battery I gave to autozone had the negative terminal pretty well gauged

Did they change the battery?
I did yes before any of this trouble shooting started on my end, but after the previous owners I tail issues

All of those lost communication codes indicate a loss of power to the modules. Maybe the power train relay
I can look into this more. Was similar to my thoughts but I thought I swapped that relay with a working one for sure.