To add to Lucky's post:

Careful. DO NOT ground out that cable to any metal parts of the car. That is the positive battery cable.

 

Very good point. Thanks.

 

Welcome to the site, please let us know how the battery test went, I had this same issue a few years back while on vacation in Florida, it was the battery, it had a bad cell or 2 it was the original battery just 3 years old.

 

I don't remember; did anybody suggest the old fuse box halves thing?

Yes, Laco did!
Start with tightening the 4 bolts under the fuse box cover.

 

Take a gander at this.


https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...p-50543/page2/

 

I had this same No Start problem on our new aquired 2011 2.4L LT.

What I did in this order and I rechecked for improvement after each step.
Fully charged battery and verified voltage.
Checked all fuses in underhood fuse block.
Cleaned grd connection left frt on radiator support, behind A/C hard line.
Cleaned pwr connection (Torx Screw, pwr steering motor) at underhood fuse block.
Cleaned power connection to the left of the underhood fuse block.
Loosened and retightened the 4 10MM studs in the underhood fuse block.
Replaced the battery.
Problem resolved (so far).
I do not know the age of the battery but it was an AC Delco and it did not look very old. Both end cells looked puffed out/swollen. That is usually a sign of problems inside the battery.

 

The torx power is for the electric power steering motor, there are 4 bolts holding the under hood fuse block together

 

The chain auto parts stores will perform a free battery load test and charging system test

 

Bulging cells indicates overcharging or freezing. It takes REALLY cold to freeze a battery.
Get your charging system checked.

 

That new battery won’t last if the alternator doesn’t charge it.