I rebuilt the LCA and took it for an alignment. I had bought a life-time alignment several years ago from Pepboy’s, yes I realize this was a mistake now. So of course they say I have bad outer tie rode ends, struts and sway bar links and they can buy the parts and replace them for just shy of $900. So I but the parts and will be putting them on tomorrow. I got a feeling that they will not align it since I did the work myslef, regardless I’ll take it somewhere else to,get aligned if this is an issue. Here is my question. I had rebuilt the LCA’s myself. I pressed in new bushings and drilled out rivets and went with TRW ball joints. The original holes in the aluminum LCA is 12mm, the ball joint comes with 10mm bolts. I did not like all the slop, so I bought hardened 12mm bolts, now there is NO slop. Pepe boys gave me a sheet and I don’t understand it. Is my right side camber way off and I could this be corrected by using the 10mm ball joint bolts so they can adjust that or is adjusting ball joint something they would even do at an alignment?

 

No adjustment for the camber isn’t at those 3 bolts. A camber bolt is used at the point were the knuckle bolts to the strut.

 

I would be checking the hubs, all 4.
Camber and caster are set at the factory by bending the body. The ONLY adjustable setting is toe, unless you install a camber kit.

I found that some LCA arms are longer than the stock parts and cause a camber problem. That applies only if you buy complete LCAs.
I don't see anywhere on the sheet foe camber. It seems to be only toe, front, rear, left, right, before, after.

 

The only easily adjustable thing is the front wheel toe. The only basic adjustment is the tie rod ends, and fiddling with them should get you to just fine, if not great. Take it to a flat place like a large mall parking lot, (not a crown road) and see if it drives straight with the steering wheel centered. If so, any adjustments to the tie rod ends need to be equal turns on each side. if not correct, the steering wheel centering first, making sure that the wheels are very close to parallel by measuring the front and the rear of the tread. Your ultimate goal is a tiny bit of toe-in, somewhere between 0 and 1/8” difference between the front of the tire and the back of the tire. This can be difficult to judge because tires aren’t that perfect but if you take several measurements at different places on the tread, you should be able to get to something pretty close. At 0 the car might feel like it wants to wander a little; at 1/8” it might begin to feel a little twitchy.

Based on your ability to do the work you’ve done, I have no doubt that you’re capable of getting the alignment good enough by yourself.

Full disclosure, I’m no expert. These opinion are a result of my personal experience in a bit of research.

 

Thanks for the tips pulp fiction! I grabbed a piece of 1-1/2” angle iron and drilled holes for the lug nuts, yes everything is “perfectly” centered and measured. I spent more time than I want to mention measuring and adjusting tie rod ends, finally realized I had an issue with a ball joint that allowed it to move. I got the toe with about 1/16” toe-in.

Anyone know what the torque is for the:
outer tie rod to steering knuckle
outer tie rod jam nut
inner tie rod

 

There is a link to a FREE Shop manual in my sig, All of that info is in it.

 

I like your innovation with the angle iron but I’m concerned. I can’t tell from the picture if the suspension is loaded. The alignment needs to be done that way. Lifting the chassis and attempting to align that way will give you bad alignment. And even if you attempt to load the suspension with the wheel off, it won’t be the exact same deflection as with the wheels on and bearing the full weight of the car, so think about that. Maybe you can make some spacers so you can use your angle irons with the wheels on.

 

Or just measure the tire thread from side to side both front and backside of the axle. Then to ensure you have it straight measure from the 21 mm rear LCA’s bolt with a 21 mm socket on it to the centre of the tire tread on both sides, they should be equal. I drive up onto 2 12” squares of 3/8 plywood with a piece of cardboard sandwiched in between so I don’t mark up my concrete driveway

Torque the outer tie rod nut to 18 ft lbs, snug the inner tie rod then an 1/8 turn, snug the outer tie rod adjustment nut then an 1/8 turn , hold the inner tie rod to prevent turning and messing up your measurement.

 

well damn it! I totally think you are correct. It drives so much better now, but not perfect. I’ll take it and get it professionally aligned and come back and post their before and after.

 

You choose to ignore my method