Anyone reported brake issue to Feds?
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
Thank you. I've been waiting for someone to step up. And if y'all are not aware, Chevy has a "My Chevy" site. I've registered my truck and Fiance's HHR SS (GCSD3742). He didn't believe that they'd do something, and they contacted him in 2 days.
I know most know on the SS version of the HHR the testing was done on the same track as the ZR1, why not give the HHR similarly built rotors....
Lisa
I know most know on the SS version of the HHR the testing was done on the same track as the ZR1, why not give the HHR similarly built rotors....
Lisa
Contacting GM it the right thing to do if the dealer can resolve the issue.
Tw
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
This "brake rotor warping" issue has been kicked to death on this forum. A good number of HHR owners have reported having brake issues. I have a 2006 2LT that I bought used with 26K on it. It presented shuddering brakes soon after and it went to the dealer three times (approximately once every 4K miles) until it turned 36K and they would no longer attempt repairs under warranty. At this time I went to Auto Zone (the only place I could find pads and rotors in my area) and purchased the items to repair the brakes. This fix STOPPED the problem completely. I had read something posted by EBC Brake Co. describing how the brake pad "oscillates" in the retainer thus causing a wear pattern on the rotor. This wear pattern is WORSENED by driving the car on the open highway rather than applying the brakes. When the brakes are then applied the pads "chatter" on this pattern set up in the rotors. This means in simple terms (1) the pads are made of a material that is too hard! (2) the rotors are NOT warped, they are merely "checked" by the pad rocking back and forth in the retainer. When I did my brake work I used the bottom of the line pads which were non asbestos organic. These pads are softer and do not damage the rotor when the car is driven on the highway. I have put over 35K miles on this brake installation with NO MORE BRAKE ISSUES. Guys and girls, the rotors are not warped. It's the problem EBC outlined in their writeup. If you use softer pads, clean the mounting surface on the axle where the rotor mates to it, and torque your wheels back to specification, you will most likely be able to forget this issue. I have trouble free brakes now. I cannot believe Auto Zone's Duralast brake rotors which are reputed to be made in China are superior to the GM factory parts. The only answer MUST be the softer pads. If your HHR doesn't have a lot of miles on it and you want to have your factory rotors turned, installing softer pads might rid you of your brake issues as well. I can't say for sure because I replaced the rotors too. Total cost was right at $120. Yes, I spent money out of my pocket, but my brakes do not chatter today. What's an ulcer or a headache from countless installations of pads that are too hard and will produce the same problem worth? One owner reported installing some very expensive kevlar pads and slotted rotors only to get the same results. If you examine the retainer on the HHR the pad has two tabs each of which sits in a slot. The pad is free to sit and rock back and forth against the rotor as you drive. You can all sy what you want and throw all the stones you desire, but MY BRAKES WORK and they are trouble free. The factory pads are too hard a compound and replacement ceramic pads most likely are as well. I invite all you learned folks to do your own research. I did mine.
The most common way that this happens is not hard pads but often a hub that is not true in how it rolls. IF the hub has a wobble to it and too much run out it can wear the rotor uneven as you stated.
The cause of the hub being out can be several things and the most common is a bad hub bearing. Todays hubs are sealed and often are not very good. THey wear and van have too much run out and let the rotor wear as you have stated.
Also today few people seat their pads on their vehicles. The factory does not do this and seldom do the mechanics that change the brakes. Also the first 300-400 miles how you use your brakes can determine how the brakes will perform. JUst because you can change the pads does not mean you did the job right.
If the pads are not seated and a good even layer of pad material is laid down on the rotor you can have material embbed itself to the rotor in one spot.
The spot on the rotor can create a spot where the material in going to grab the rotor on every revolution. This creates the dreaded judder. Some time it can happen after one hot hard stop and sometime go away other times it can just get worse. Bedding in or seating the brakes prevents this.
The first 300-400 miles and how you drive can either give you long brake life of judder. If you have not followed the proper break in you may have issues if you normal driving is at odds with a proper bedding process.
To see Video's on these problems go to Raybestos.com and look under technical. They have a lot of videos with common brake issues. There are a couple that detail how Judder happens and how to prevent rotor issues.
The only to really warp a rotor is improper torquing of the lugs. THere really is nothing wrong with the brakes other than some simple things that get over looked at installation.
These issues are things many good mechanics either don't check or advise the customer how to drive the first couple hundred miles.
I used to have had issues with pads but no longer once I learned what really happens. Too few people know the truth.
Take the time and learn from the Videos I mentioned. IF you don't want to believe Raybestos you can check Bendix and most other major MFG web sites as they too address this the judder issue and will explain how to resolve it with a few simple things.
Not not everyone has brake issues with the very same brakes. It is more than just the parts. The first step to understand that the cause is most likely not a warped rotor is the first step to solving the issue.
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