I have recently (2 weeks ago) installed an aftermarket andriod radio
The wiring harness that i got did not have an ignition hotwire to the factory harness so it came with a fuse tap I used the fuse for the sunroof which my car does not have (the kind you inplug a fuse and put that fuse and the radio fuse into the tap and plug the whole thing back into the fuse panel)
So I come out this morning to get in the car and the key fob will not unlock the door.(I assume the fob needs a new battery)
So I use the key to get in and of course the factory horn alarm goes off.
I start the car to stop the security system and I pull out of the drive and try to turn on the radio and it doesn't turn on
So I think I guess the fuse is blown.
Get out go around to the passenger side and open the fuse panel and check the fuse that i tapped and its good. So I pull the factory radio fuse and it is also good so i put back both fuses and figure I'm gonna have to look at in the daylight to find the problem.
I get back in the car and start it up and the radio comes on. So im like cool maybe it was loose or something. And now i check the key fob and it works. But the auto lock is not working when i pull into and out of park.(it did lastnight when i parked it) If i go in the dic and change it to unlock from the key off it works and change it back to the park setting and it still doesn't work.
I pulled every fuse under the dash and checked they are all good and one under the hood labled park neutral and it is good aswell

 

 

There are better choices for switched power; like one of the "spares". They are switched; 12 & 21 are 20A 14 is 10A they all get their power from the RetainedAuxPower relay, which means they stay on until both the key is removed and the driver door opens. Use a VOM to determine which side of the fuse is hot and tap the other side.

#23 is the always hot for the radio and the remote control door lock receiver, I suspect there is a short somewhere, probably internal. Maybe the wrong adapters or the LED display? Or use a different source.

The problem is that the OE radio has an "always hot" wire and no "switched power" wire, it is controlled by the computer data line.

 

Thanks for the welcome and i will look for a grounding issue

Thank you for the fuse info
I dont understand what you mean about wrong adapter or led display. (What adapter what led display)
That said i do plan on using one of the spare fuse slots you mentioned

 

Did you buy the adapters for the radio to work in the car? Like a GMOS-LAN-03 I think that would have solved the power problem. Crutchfield.com has lots of free info.

I am guessing the radio has an LED display; cheaply made displays can cause short to ground on some circuits.

 

this is the harness I bought
for this radio
but i replaced the fuse tap with one like this

I noticed on the drive home that the interlock that activates when you are in park and step on the brake it clicks in the shifter
Well it is still activating everytime you step on the brake even when the car is in gear

 

Your link is to a harness for a FORD.

 

That harness might "fit" but you still need the gmos-lan-03 to have the chimes and retained power etc.

I think that a couple of the wires you just spliced into are LAN data lines not what the harness thinks they are, thus shorting signals.

Some of the comment say that the color codes/ positions are not correct for some applications.