Bad ECM?
08-01-2017, 11:52 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: 08-01-2017
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5
Bad ECM?
I have a 2008 HHR with 2.4. I had some issues with a bad exhaust pipe and a cracked exhaust manifold which were repaired. All was good. About 6 months ago the check engine light went on. A whole bunch of codes.
Both oxygen sensors were replaced. Before that replacement, the car was also occasionally missing and city gas mileage was terrible. Once they were replaced, check engine light went off, gas mileage got dramatically better and no missing.
About 4 months after the replacement the check engine light came back on ... missing occasionally returned and gas mileage dropped. Took it back to repair facility and they replaced the sensors again ... However this time the check engine light did not go off.. car still misses and gas mileage for you know what. It is throwing so many codes that the repair facility said there is no way my car would be running.
I apologize as I don't have a list of codes but I will be getting those in the next few days.
The only other weird issue that I have is I lost my main keys and my second key fob was broken and I had to open it up and solder it. I bought a key fob online and I took it to a locksmith and they were not able to program it. I even bought one of those online kits that allow you to program it your own and that didn't work. I am not sure which computer controls that functionality but just wanted to add that as another piece of info.
Of course I need a smog check and it ain't gonna happen without fixing the issue. If you reset the codes using a reader or even pull the fuses after the second restart the check engine light comes back on. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Both oxygen sensors were replaced. Before that replacement, the car was also occasionally missing and city gas mileage was terrible. Once they were replaced, check engine light went off, gas mileage got dramatically better and no missing.
About 4 months after the replacement the check engine light came back on ... missing occasionally returned and gas mileage dropped. Took it back to repair facility and they replaced the sensors again ... However this time the check engine light did not go off.. car still misses and gas mileage for you know what. It is throwing so many codes that the repair facility said there is no way my car would be running.
I apologize as I don't have a list of codes but I will be getting those in the next few days.
The only other weird issue that I have is I lost my main keys and my second key fob was broken and I had to open it up and solder it. I bought a key fob online and I took it to a locksmith and they were not able to program it. I even bought one of those online kits that allow you to program it your own and that didn't work. I am not sure which computer controls that functionality but just wanted to add that as another piece of info.
Of course I need a smog check and it ain't gonna happen without fixing the issue. If you reset the codes using a reader or even pull the fuses after the second restart the check engine light comes back on. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; 08-01-2017 at 12:25 PM. Reason: Easier to read
08-01-2017, 12:32 PM
#2
Moderator
Join Date: 05-01-2014
Location: California
Posts: 7,819
Hi Allen, 
to the forums!!
We really do need those codes. Unfortunately, my experience here in Cali, is that the auto parts stores will no longer read codes for us. I got around that for a bit by going to jiffy lube and having them read the codes.
I finally bought a reader, much more convenient, and pretty cheap online.
With a ton of codes, it may be a good idea to get the battery tested, low voltage wreaks havoc with these vehicles.
Post up the codes here without descriptions, as they can be misleading. We'll see if we can get this figured out!
to the forums!!We really do need those codes. Unfortunately, my experience here in Cali, is that the auto parts stores will no longer read codes for us. I got around that for a bit by going to jiffy lube and having them read the codes.
I finally bought a reader, much more convenient, and pretty cheap online.
With a ton of codes, it may be a good idea to get the battery tested, low voltage wreaks havoc with these vehicles.
Post up the codes here without descriptions, as they can be misleading. We'll see if we can get this figured out!
08-01-2017, 02:31 PM
#5
Platinum Member
Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,110
And to add this. Regarding the key fob programming issue. There was a problem on some 2008's . Something to do with the RCDLR losing it's memory or something.
Donbrew our Tech Moderator should be able to pull up that info for you.
Donbrew our Tech Moderator should be able to pull up that info for you.
08-05-2017, 04:12 PM
#9
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,580
Seems like Donbrew's suggestion of the system needs a reflash of firmware
P1300? Toyota #1 igniter??
https://www.google.ca/search?q=P1300...9IXQ9WoQ_1:601
P1300? Toyota #1 igniter??
https://www.google.ca/search?q=P1300...9IXQ9WoQ_1:601
08-05-2017, 05:33 PM
#10
Moderator
Join Date: 05-01-2014
Location: California
Posts: 7,819
C0300 seems to be related to 4WD vehicles.
P0A00 seems to be related to the coolant temperature sensor.
P1000 is about the emissions drive cycle.
P3000 manufacturer specific - no other mention of it on this site.
P3600 C1300 and C1401 unknown - no other mention of it on this site.
The rest are, I'm guessing by the "P" suffix, pending and most are duplicates. Except for P0036 which has to do with the HO2S.
C0700 Unknown. I think 2 or 3 others here have had it before.
P0800 Another code that seems to be for 4WD vehicles.
P1300 unknown - no other mention of it on this site.
I would pull them again to verify that you copied them down correctly, then do a battery lobotomy, disconnecting the negative cable for 30 minutes.