hi guys, it's been a while since I've been here. So, the question. Is there a way to get good braking on the HHR? I've replaced the rotors twice. First with drilled and slotted and now I have slotted which have been on there for a couple of years and I thought had solved the problem but recently we were on a trip and on a 5 mile down hill the brakes started chattering with some fade. I wasn't on them hard just keeping to the speed limit. Now what?

 

There has been lots of debate on here about brakes. Some say that if you keep your rear brakes adjust correctly and checked often will help.

I my self have tried many different makers of pads and rotors.

I installed napa rotor and pads 10,000 miles ago and have not had any brake problems as of yet.

When I installed the pads and rotor I also installed brake rotor shields that are listed in a TSB from GM. So far so good.

 

08-05-23-003
Here is the bulletin about brake pulsation and the splash shields as promised in another post....will also post it there..

#08-05-23-003: Front Brake Noise, Brake Pulsation, Front Brake Inner Pad Wear (Replace Front Brake Pads and Add Splash Shields) - (Mar 20, 2008)


Subject: Front Brake Noise, Brake Pulsation, Front Brake Inner Pad Wear (Replace Front Brake Pads and Add Splash Shields)


Models: 2006-2008 Chevrolet HHR




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Condition
Some customers may comment on a brake noise and/or pulsation on brake apply. This condition can be more frequent if the customer resides or travels on dirt/gravel roads and usually occurs within 11,300 km (7,000 mi) to 16,000 km (10,000 mi) intervals.

Upon investigation, the technician may find that there is considerable difference between the front brake outer and inner pad thickness.

Cause
This condition may be due dust, dirt, and debris intruding between the inner brake pad and rotor.

Correction
Road test the vehicle and confirm that the brake noise and/or pulsation is coming from the front brakes. If it is determined that the noise is coming from the front brakes and there is a measurable difference between the outer and inner pad thickness, remove the front wheel bearing/hub assembly following published SI procedures, remove the bearing/hub-to-steering knuckle spacer and replace the spacer with a splash shield on each side.

Replace the front brake pads and follow the procedures outlined in Service Bulletin 00-05-22-002J for servicing the disc brake rotors.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

25884778
Shield, Front Brake (Right)
1

25884779
Shield, Front Brake (Left)
1

 

Well, first off clean the rear shoes and adjust them so there is just 3 clicks on the emergency brake.
Then have a look at the front pads they may be worn enough to warrant changing them, if the rotors are not grooved
I used to have this problem I upgraded to the SS 11.65 inch discs and caliper brakets and run GM premium ceramic SS pads, they fit into my stock calipers and into my 16 inch steelies no more brake judder!

And yes I installed the front brake backing plates last time I replaced the front hub bearings.

 

Most important to keep the rears adjusted.

As for judder mine has gone completely away for 10,000 miles now. I replaced the lower control arms; one was so torn that I could note bad camber by eye. The guy that aligned it last didn't notice them.

 

Oldblue & Don, both hit upon one of the key things needed for proper and consistent braking in an HHR. The rear brakes need to be doing their share, otherwise, the front brakes are being overtaxed.

Here's a thread on rear brake adjustment...

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ocedure-36754/

 

"I wasn't on them hard just keeping to the speed limit. Now what?"

You can get way too much heat build up by riding your brake peddle like you did. This IS what you did, it is only normal. My wife is guilty of it because she is terrified of going fast downhill.

Solution? Next time put your car, hell any vehicle in the next lowest gear and let the drive train slow you down.

You did not mention that this has happed again AFTER your trip...so check your pads/rotors, if they are worn replace them.

Ever wondered why tractor trailers go slow on a down grade? They can't afford to heat the brakes up, their life depends on it.

Near my city we have the steepest, longest grade east of Hell. It is known as "Saluda Grade". Google it. This grade claims newbie camper pullers and 18 wheeler drivers on a regular basis.

Happy Motoring!!!

 

This entire thread is very useful and can be applied to many other autos. I copy and paste these threads and save them in Word Pad. Then I delete the extraneous words and names, etc and save the file in MS Word under a file name such as "HHRbetterbrakes for future use.

I hope this is not copyright infringement Lawdog?

The rear brake adjust thing is interesting. In the old days you could drive a pickup forever and never need rear brakes; but change the fronts several times. This actually meant your front drums were doing all the braking.

This raises another question; when manufacturers went to dual master cylinders were you able to adjust the valve to apply more or less brake to the rear?

Boydie

 

It's called a "proportioning valve". One on every car I've seen.

Some, if not all, pickup trucks have a variable valve depending on the weight in the bed.

 

I did this over a year ago and still yet to have any brake shake or fade.
Install the 11.65 front rotors and caliper bracket.
built and installed (weld very good) a tab on the rear axle for the GM caliper.
installed all GM rotor (kind of) caliper and backing plate parking cables.
Total cost for this fix was under $600.
If you were worried about the brake bias you can install a adjustable proportioning valve on the rear brake lines.
Just do a test. Drive down the road about 35 mph and yank on your parking brake. Does your car stop? Mine will, even going down hill. It will lock the rear wheels if I pull the brake all the way on.
Did I say you have to weld the tabs on very good. You don't want them breaking off.