Our 2008 SS has developed a "squeek" when depressing the brake pedal. It only does it with light pressure; press harder on the brakes and it goes away. So, I'm assuming that the pads are due for a change?? We have 22,600 mile on it.

So, some threads mentioned the Wagner Thermoquiet pads. However, people who replied said they order the ceramic version. I tried to find them in ceramic and cannot find; only semi-metallic. So, are they available in ceramic??

What about Autozone's Duralast Gold CMax ceramic pads?? Good?? Low brake dust???

Thanks!!

 

Might pull a wheel as it could just be a pad that has worked a little lose. The pads viberate and will squeal under light pressure.

But also if you are hard on brakes the pads may be do soon to be replaced. The wear indicators usally squeal all the time if the pads are that worn.

Take a look at the red EBC pads. They are the best out right now. Low dust great wear top quality. Don't mess witht he green or the yellow on the SS for street driving.

No matter what pads you get follow the correct bedding or seating in of the pads. It will pay off in the long run and give you much better perfromance and wear. Most people know how to put the pads on but few ever bed them in properly and that is what causes a lot of problems.

 

Looks like I am one of those you speak of who replaces pads and dosn't "bed" them.... What is involved in doing that?

 

From what I can see, you need to order the EBC pads. Not really my first option. Does anybody know the answer about the Wagner Thermoquiet pads? Advance has the semi-metallics, but Wagner's website does not show a listing for a ceramic pad for the HHR. Also, anybody use the Duralast Gold pads?? Lastly, does everybody replace the rotors when changing the pads???

 

Ordering is fast and painless for the best pads. Most dealer can Dropship them at no extra charge and have them sent to you in just a couple of days. I can't recomend who can do that per web site rules. So sorry for the lack of help there as it is not my choice. Might call EBC and they can recomend a dealer to do so.

With the price of rotors it is best to replace them anymore. They are cheap and cutting them make them more more at risk to not disapate heat. Less metal makes them less able to absorbe heat and remove it from the pads.

Don't bother with drilled or dimples unlesss you want the look. They do not add any editional performance.

Also the rotors will not warp from the heat but it is important to check the bearings as if there is too much play it can lead to the rotos wearing uneven causing what many believe to be warp.

I used to wrench on cars and today I work for a company that sells many lines of brakes. Most companies have a good line and cheap line. ALways go for the best you can afford as it will give you much better service. Also watch the quality of material they use. The key is to transfer heat as fast as possible and dissapate heat. The ceramic or kevlar materials do this best.

If you chose Kevlar make sure the company buys their material from Dupont as some use a mix of Kevlar and fillers that are not Dupont approved.

Avoid metalic pads as they are good but old school and much better materials are now here to disapate heat.

 

Just because someone thinks they can install pads or their buddy can they have a properly installed brake job. I have seen many a ASE mechanic not do it properly all the time.

Today few people understand on a new car or new brake pads you need to use care in their use when new. If not it can lead to many issues wrongly identified as a warped roto. Also run out needs to be check as this is the other cause of judder that is also blamed for warped rotors.

Often warp is only a issue if the lugs are over tightened.

Here is just what the Tirerack has posted. You can go to EBC, Raybestos, Bendix, Willwood etc for recomended bedding in and the real cause of judder and how to prevent it.

Brake Pad and Rotor Bed-In Procedures


Lea esta página en español

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

SATISFIED

For Gransport GS6 Carbon Ceramic Pads —

Step 1: Make 10 stops from 30 mph (50 kph) down to about 10 mph (15 kph) using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down.

Step 2: Make 5 consecutive stops from 50 mph (80 kph) down to 10 mph (15 kph). After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes. This completes the break-in of your pads to the rotor surface.

During Steps 1 & 2, a de-gassing process occurs which may produce an odor coming from your pads as they complete the break-in cycle. This odor is normal and is part of the process your pads must go through to achieve their ultimate level of performance. The odor will go away after allowing your braking system to cool for approximately 30 minutes.

As with any new set of pads, do not tow a trailer or do any hauling during the break-in period.

Full seating of your new brake pads normally occurs within 1,000 miles.

For all other Satisfied pads —

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

Note this may vary a little from company to company but it is all very similar. Follow this use good quality pads and seldom will you have issues with brakes.

 

i have the duralast gold pads on my car. i havent had any problems so far.

 

Thanks. I actually went to NAPA and bought their ultimate rotors and ceramic pads. The rotors have a black anodized hat, which I like because rust looks terrible. Brakes are good again! I am just surprised that at 22,600 miles, I had hardly any pad remaining. I hope these last longer and produce less dust.

In regards to the EBC's, I wasn't willing to wait for them. It's the weekend and they were getting done today; not during the week. Thanks everybody!

 

I just put the Hawks on the front of mine. At 30k the stock ones were toast. Hopefully the Hawks last longer

 

I put new pads on mine at 29k right fronts were completely down to metal and the left sides were fine. I called the dealer and they told me there was nothing they could do for me. My parents have an LT and they have almost 80k on theres and have factory pads. I had a real problem with brake dust, I figured I had a caliper sticking now that I have changed out pads very little dust and stops a lot better.