pdmorris1

I removed the air cleaner to replace the spark plugs, and air filter. I can not get the air cleaner housing to go back on. No matter how many times I try those two mounting studs on the back just won't fit into the rubber grommets. I tryed adjusting the bracket the two mounting studs are screwed two, moving it back toward the firewall, no luck. The studs have to be in those rubber grommets or the check engine light comes on. Anyone have an idea how I can get those mounting studs into the grommets?

donbrew

Silicone lubricant, white grease whatever kind of grease you have around.

pdmorris1

Thanks donbrew. I tryed wd40. I'll try some grease. When I try to pound down with my fist on each stud it seems to push down on the bracket that the two studs are mounted on instead of the studs going into the rubber grommets.

Silverfox

Sounds like you might not have them properly aligned before pushing down.
Can you put your fingers on the grommet hole and guide the two together?
If you have moved the bracket it might not be positioned correctly.

Wipe off the WD-40 and then put some white lithium grease on each grommet. Especially where it first touches.
Napa has it ...Part # 765-1391 just a small 2oz. tube.

SF

pdmorris1

I tryed the grease, but still can't get the studs into the grommets. I connected the air duck hose and plugged the map sensor back in. The housing itself is firmly in place. When I started the car it is running fine. But the check engine light is now on. Would it be on because those mounting studs are not seated into the grommets and sucking air?

aradmahogany

Even without the air filter on there shouldn't be a CEL.... Pull the code something went wrong with the install or you forgot to plug something in.

pdmorris1

I checked,and everything is connected. I would think the air cleaner would have to be connected or You would trigger a light. Without the cleaner being connected your map sensor wouldn't be connected. Isn't that electrical connection to your air cleaner your map sensor?

whopper

No, that is the MAF sensor that is located in the throat of the air-box housing.

If you are having problems getting the air-box grommets installed over the 3 mounting studs, even with wd40 or grease, then you likely have a problem with the grommets themselves. They do deteriorate over time, and may need replacement.

Here is the procedure documented on removing/replacing the housing and filter.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...-filter-10757/

Not having the grommets installed properly over the mounting studs will not cause the CEL - ie: they will not "suck air" as you noted, as they are just mounting points and are not related to the air intake at all, and therefore will not cause the CEL.

"Pounding down" is totally unnecessary and likely has caused either the grommets to be damaged, or you have bent the rear bracket the studs are mounted on. This is not rocket science - remounting the housing over the studs is pretty simple.

- REAR AIRBOX BRACKET - GM P/N - 15784193
- AIRBOX MOUNTNG GROMMETS - GM P/N - 12563914

This is getting pretty confusing as you say the housing is "firmly in place" yet you say it is not mounted properly on the studs......................... obviously if it is not properly mounted on the three studs, it is not firmly in place??????

As aradmahogany says - pull the CEL code to determine what the problem is.

firemangeorge

1. Bent or broken bracket.
2. Grommet issue.
3. Installer error.
Take your pick.

Like whopper said. "This is not rocket science".

pdmorris1

Thanks everyone for your help I hope I wasn't being a pest. How are you going to learn anything if you don't ask questions. Isn't that the reason for this forum , owners helping owners? Sorry I am not a rocket scientist . Just a 70 year old guy trying to fix up a car I purchased for my daughter. The grommets make sense, I had to really pull hard to get the cover off. I'll pick up some at the Chevy dealer tomorrow. I removed the battery cable for 5 minutes , and reinstalled it. That cured the check engine light.