Coolant Temps Bouncing all over
 

Since a recent spell of hot weather I have had issues with my coolant temps bouncing all over. Mostly in the HOT range. Mostly when idle or in heavy traffic.

A few weeks ago the fan would sound like a turbo-prop ready to take-off for several minutes after the engine was shut off.

Now, the fan seems to shut down within seconds of the engine being turned off.

I have not been able to find any threads on a control module for the 2.2 LS.

Does anyone know a part number for this or have a fix in mind? I can run in the 200-205 range all day the start creeping up to 212 then even into the 230s.

Usually, the temp will start dropping when it hits 220 but in traffic it just keeps climbing.

Let me know what ideas you have or threads on the 2.2 I see loads for the SS.

Thanks

Have you changed the coolant?

Mine does that too when it’s very hot outside, the rest of the time it stays very cool. I think this is because when I mixed the coolant I did not have enough water to make it 50/50.

Racecars use straight water to keep there engines cool, a more water mix will also keep it cooler.

I would just change the coolant if you haven’t already with the appropriate 50/50 premixed solution.

What year?
How many miles?
And have to checked the coolant level?

2009 LS with 276XXX miles. Ye and it is full in the reservoir and under the pressure cap.

I may try that and see how it works.

OEM 2009 coolant and thermostat?
Dexcool needs to be changed only has a 5 year life.
Change the thermostat while you are changing the Dexcool.

Check RockAuto for the fan assembly, easy to change out.


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No module on LS/LT.

The fan runs after shut off only when the coolant temp is over 240F (overheating).

Does the fan come on at about 219F?

Might be the pump.

Yes Don. Once I hit 219 while driving the temp starts dropping like a rock until it gets below 200 (usually 198) then it will start climbing again if I am not moving.

You may have the wrong t-stat, it should stay on until ~180F. Some misguided souls think 190F t-stats are better than 180F t-stats; some people have had GM dealers force 190F on them.

But, it should not routinely get that high while moving. Should stay ~190F.

Could be the pump or clogged radiator. I am leaning toward bad pump.

What color is the antifreeze?
Does the coolant look rusty?

Have the HHR had issues with the pump at high mileage? Like the impeller slipping?

Not necessarily at high mileage, but impellers have been known to stop spinning for various reasons. Chain, bearing, impeller etc. The weep hole being on top in a hole doesn't help you noticing a bad bearing, like you used to be able to do. Plus the impeller is just a force fit onto the shaft.

Mostly just in stopped or stop & go traffic. I ordered a new radiator and thermostat and will change out the fluid. I need to get this corrected since this is my work car that I drive all day.

ah, well hopefully the new radiator, thermostat and coolant cures your problem.

Otherwise I would have to agree with them, the water pump may be failing.

Best of luck! :)

Tip: use premixed 50/50.

Don't use anything but the proper AC-Delco thermostat and Dexcool... You don't want to have to do this twice.

I have a Delco radiator and thermostat on order. I will probably just buy the pre-mix. What is the total capacity for coolant>

Premix Dexcool, I buy two, one gallon jugs, leaves a bit for burping the system and top ups if required

Delco radiator packaging
 

Has anyone bought one of these Delco radiators?

I got mine today via UPS from Amazon.

Zero Delco marking on the box and loose inside.

No Delco marks anywhere to be found on the radiator itself.

I almost think this seller might be subbing aftermarket and calling them Delco.

Let me know if you have any info.

AC/Delco is the brand name that you are confusing.

New ones cost around $50. I doubt you will ever see an AC/Delco branded radiator.

Yes, AC DELCO is to what I am referring. I have not seen an AC DELCO radiator for that low. Mine was $103 and that was the best price I found. Just a plain box. No part number tags or anything.

It's your money.

I don't know how slapping a sticker on a radiator box makes it worth twice as much.

I don't follow what you are saying?

Anything less was listed as aftermarket.

Posting a link to the radiator you bought might help?

I am just asking if anyone bought an OEM radiator and got in a plain box. No GM part number etc. Usually they are at least bagged with a part number.

If you want the link here it is I am just talking about what I received.

I’ve not bought an AC Delco rad , but that the Internet, you pay your money and take your chances .
Seems like a deal RockAuto price is higher


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What I am getting at is everything is after market, even something that claims to be OEM.

Somebody recently posted a website they recommended, I think the prices were way below $50 free shipping. Can't find it now.

Anyone have any tips for getting the drain pet**** out?

It won't come out by hand and the position into which it was tightened is not allowing me to turn it with pliers.

How about different pliers? So you can get a different angle on it.

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Or maybe a universal socket?


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You can buy a socket for it at an auto parts store or if you have a spare socket approx 3/4" OD, you can cut a slot it it with a grinder and cutoff wheel.

Why bother with the petclock if you are having problems with it? Just pop off the lower rad hose, and let it dump into a small bucket or whatever.

Yes, I know about the tools but NO ONE stocks them. I don't have a vise to hold an old socket to cut a slot. I did think of that.

I want to run the flush first and the hose clamp is on at an angle that will require some disassembly to get it off. I was trying to not mess with it until after the flush was run.

The Gator Grip is too small for this by about 1/16th of an inch. No other pliers are letting me get a good angle on it. I did think of using other ones. Thanks.

At your local big box auto parts store.


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Yes, none stock locally or seem to know how to order it (NAPA, O'Reilly, AutoZone)

Then just destroy the one in it and get a new one. They stock them here. But they stock the tool, too.

A small crescent wrench has worked for me on several different cars. Not sure about the LS, LT HHR's.