New fan just arrived, I guess I'll put in the new one unless there are any other recommendations?

 

If you like replacing parts that are functioning properly. There is no recommendation in this thread to suspect the engine cooling fan.

You don't seem to want to accept that it's an AC problem. Your Gauge being in the green is not a proper diagnostic. A pro will install gauges(see the plural? ) , testing high side and low side, and knows how to interpret the results.

 

Where all of the buttons and switches are
CheckEngineLight
run down to means the lowest temp when the fan turns off, should be near 180F
WHO SUGGESTED THE FAN WAS BAD, it is working as designed. Are you reading any of this thread, or just FB crap? FB is fine if you understand that virtually everyone there is less informed than you are.

The first and only suggestion in this thread was to replace the t-stat with a AC-Delco part number 131-158, not some other number.
If I suggested driving off a cliff would you do it? I have heard that suggestion on the interwebs.

 

First of all please forgive my ignorance, forum stuff is very new to me as is the HHR. I want to replace functioning parts about as much as I want to drive off a cliff with you or have Biden as my president.

One of the original private messages I got was from Oldblue ...that fan should come on when you turn on the A/C , now you say it works at higher temperatures for the cooling system, I suggest you check the refrigerant level in the A/C system and then if the fan doesn’t operate properly, replace the fan assembly Cheers Steve.

I put my refill gauge on the low side, it read at the correct full level so I was going to follow Oldblue recommendation.

I will have a cold one and go back through thread more carefully.

 

Right here is why I say the fan seems fine. It came on when the compressor came on. This is one parameter for the fan to turn on. The other being coolant reaching 219*.

It might not be a refrigerant problem, maybe a pressure switch or some other component of the AC.

I started the car this morning, ambient and coolant temperatures were both around 55*. AC blew cold; like it should regardless of ambient or coolant temperature. There probably is an upper limit on coolant temperature that will disable the AC, but at that point the engine is probably toast

 

Putting the gauge on only 1 side will not tell you it’s full. It will only tell you the low side pressure is in the target pressure zone for an engaged compressor. 30-60 or something like that.
If the compressor is not engaged, then full pressure will be in 100 or so range.
Get a full set of gauges. Sounds like you may just have a low charge.

 

I did recommend to replace the fan assembly as others here have had similar issues and it was the fan assembly electronics that were the problem.

 

Did I miss something? Is this a SS? LS/LT have a relay and a motor for "electronics"..
The fan should come on at around 219F OR when the AC compressor is running it should always be on. If the AC compressor is not running the fan will turn off when the temp cools to about 180F.
The T-stat opens at about 180F and stays open until the fan cools the water back to about 180F and the t-stat closes. The computer calculates how long it should take the coolant to reach 180F and if it does not in that time frame the AC will be disabled. Right now the ambient temp in texas is around 100F so the coolant will reach the temp faster than normal, even if the t-stat is open.
Evidently the AC is not sending a signal to the fan. PROBABLY BECAUSE THE T-STAT IS STUCK OPEN. Is that loud enough? At least look at it , Occam's razor says you should.
Go ahead and throw expensive parts at it if you like but, The simplest most common reason is probably the reason.

If the fan comes on at 217F the fgan is operating as designed. If the fan does not come on when the AC compressor is running there is a problem elsewhere. If the AC Compressor does not run when you push the button or turn the defrost on it is because either the computer thinks the t-stat is stuck open or the blower is not turned on. This is under normal operating, could be something else is in play like a loose wire

 

I have had several GM cars do this, including an HHR SS and an HHR LS. In every case, adding some refridgerant fixed it. Never had to add it more than once. A system that reaches its low limit after ten years does not necessarily have a significant leak. But it might. Adding an appropriate amount requires special equipment, or professional experience and a little luck, or just a lot of luck with a can from Walmart.. Too much refrigerant is probably worse than not enough. The help of a specialist is highly recommended.

I don't think a running radiator fan is a condition for the compressor to run, more the opposite; the the radiator fan comes on only when the compressor runs OR the coolant temp reaches something northe of 200F. Does the radiator fan ever come on?

Are you sure the radiator fan is not coming on when the compressor is actually running? Maybe coming on only when the compressor is actually running?

In the situation you describe, I think what you may see is the a/c switch lights up, but goes black, and then the air goes hot. May or may not light up on its own and blow cold again. Is that what happens?

 

Drove her again today, different results... Outdoor Temps near 100...started her up turned ac full blast (ac light does come on and stays on untill i push button to turn off) ac blows hard but hot as hades, cooling fan not running, once digital temp hit 118 cooling fan came on and ac began blowing cold. Drove her to work about 2 miles digital temp got to about 190 ac never blew hot. ...drive home....crank her up, hot ac, drive about 2 miles ac never blows cold fan never comes on digital temp near 190 pop the hood no running fan. Change clothes get cold beer...about 30 minutes....crank her up again in drive way...what do you know fan comes on and ac blows cold...ahhhh....