Instead of that extra ground junk, why not just test continuity from the case it is attached to to ground? It should be grounded by a pin in the connector. That exposed wire is an invitation to a stray spark.
Have you looked at the ground points, especially on the top of the transmission and on the driver side wheel well.?
What are the AUTO LOCK and UNLK options set to in the DriverInformationCenter?

 

Im on a campsite i have limited options of workground. I didnt search for grounds vause i dont know where they are, is it accesible easly? I have all plastics deasembled inside near the transmision. Option in DIC ware changed by me to all options all/driver/non unlock on key off/shift to p non of it workit

UPDATE: i noticed that the soun of "data transmiting" is near the driver wheal under the engine or in the engine on lower part, it more like "zit zit zit" sound.

 

"zit zit zit" Like a loose wire arcing?
The Grounds are easily accessible, one is on the top of the transmission , There are a couple on the driver side wheel house. Look for wires bolted to metal not modules.

 

Thank you for the reply. So its going to be a long story.

Today weve deassembled all the plastics from door of the passenger next to driver to check the cables in door for shortcut cause is, i assinged the dic to unlock none when shift to d or r only this door tryed to lock/unlocok, but there was no shortcut in the door. So we put the interior fuse box out for burned pathways but it has two "screws" with contra (i think) so we could not deassemble it correctly, so we sprayed them wit contact spray, aslike the transmision.

Now i can go 120 km per hour door clics like one/two times per 50 km BUT i dont have the rear turn signal. So its 90% fixed and 90% of chance that the interior fuse box is damaged because previous owner put two ceramic "fuses" that ware very hot every time when the engine was geting the right temperature (so hot the they burned the plastics in the body of one of the sockets, next to the safety buttons to unplug the socket, the cables are allright)

So the shifter goes not so crazy anymore, but other thing are dameged.

Tommorow next battle begins so now in montengero is midnight i will say good night chevy owners.

After i will return home i will write an information for the futer owners of Chevy hhr, cause its time to sell the old Hirek as my childern call him.

It was a nice journey over 140k km passed throught 6 years but i think i just the time to let go, we had many adventures that i will remember for the rest of my life, but evry story has an end...

 

That is why you should not over fuse in to "fix" a problem. You need to find the shorts in whatever circuit those fuses power, probably near where the sound is coming from.

 

Weve accidently broke one the ceramic fuses, the sound that was coming from the shifter was, i think, from non stock parking sensors (they ware also added by the previos owner) when the fuse got hot he raise the impedence of the fusebox, transmission doors etc, so the car wanted to do all the thing together. As i saw the cords went to rear stop lamp and attached "backing lamp" (we have to have one its restricted by the law) so thats why the car closed the door cause it was a problem betwen fuse box and the cord placed directly to the stop lamp (so that when im on r the parking sensors would go on) oh and the sound stoped when the ceramic fuse is off.

But all of thus is my guessing - the main word is - maybe

 

The sound is coming from the gearbox area when it locks the doors the zit sound comes again. So the car is locking the doors when i hit the pedal brake. Ive unpluged the abs, pluged it again tighten the socket of the gearbox, the car went well for about 30-40 km then i came to the bumpy part of the road everyting started all over again

 

Sounds like a bad connection.

 

We e checked i think everything abs fuse boxes all noticable grounds the sockets in transmison boxes fuses the main cords ware cut loose than taped again alle doors deassembled checked the wires, fuse boxes tighten. The strange thing now i was comin home no shift no door locks no nothing same road same speed, one thing changed the temperature now its 25 in day 38-40 celcius so mabe its overheating ? I don have a extra cooling system for the transmission maybe all parts are overheating i dont know.

the main question is: why when i hit the brake doors try to lock and unlock and why the car think that door are unlocked/locked when i hit the brake car thinks that he should lock/unlock the doors, the new thing is that when its on neutral doors try to do something lock/unlock but the shifter is stedy, when i hit the brake shifter start to click...

 

[QUOTE=M3ndoR;939027
the main question is: why when i hit the brake doors try to lock and unlock and why the car think that door are unlocked/locked when i hit the brake car thinks that he should lock/unlock the doors, the new thing is that when its on neutral doors try to do something lock/unlock but the shifter is stedy, when i hit the brake shifter start to click...[/QUOTE]

Because some genius crossed some wires. Like that wire to the brake lamp. And whatever is causing fuses to get hot. And the incorrectly wired reverse lamp. And the rewiring needed to make the rear lights legal in Europe, that evidently was done by a monkey.

US models must have all of the lights in the rear modified for Europe, not just the reverse light.
I am making a guess that the reverse light was intended to be triggered by the interlock relay in the shifter and somehow the brake light was used to power the reverse light and somebody with no knowledge of electricity did the wiring. Unfortunately, any wiring diagrams we have would be wrong for a Europe conversion.

In the US the brake, tail and turn lights are in the same bulb, on the top housing. Reverse lights are in the lower housings. All of the lights are controlled by the computer, not by switches like old time.