Engine Removal step by step
My engine hoist finially came today..
Figured, I’d ask, I’m doing a removal of the block from the top blindly.. anyone have a step by step write up procedure for removal? |
Doubt there is a step by step. As stated before the engine is designed to be removed via engine cradle removal out the bottom.
Granted, there may be some "backyard wrenches" that have yanked them out the top. Wouldn't think they wrote down any step by steps. |
It appears there might be enough room with the belt tensioner and the crank balancer pulley removed
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My advice would be:
remove the negative wire from the battery Remove the hood move the fuse box disconnecting the exterior battery connection remove the exhaust pipe from the header unplug the O2 sensors probably best to remove the header, it is a metal gasket low torque bolts disconnect the harness from the ECM and the TCM disconnect any holders between (might need to disconnect the harness from the trans) disconnect the ground straps remove the crank pulley and belt tensioner put a jack with a board on it under the oil pan remove the motor mount remove all the bolts holding the transmission on You might need to remove the coolant pipe and t-stat housing attach the hoist to the lift hook and put a strap around the engine Then get a helper to help push and pull whilst lifting Be careful with the torque converter, a good idea to drain ALL fluids first and provide for errant drips I don't know when or how to unbolt the torque converter. I probably forgot something. Take pictures of everything you remove When you get everything back together the CEL will be on, code p0315 means you have to go to a shop that knows how to relearn the crankshaft sensor. it is safe to drive a limited amount |
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Thanks Guys.
I know it can be pulled out from the top.. I have seen it done on youtube.. Donbrews, thats about where Im at right now... Ill keep wrenching away at it.. This is fun! |
You're going to have to separate the AC comp. from the engine before hoisting out the engine.
Haven't looked on a HHR but looks like space is limited. Option 2 would be to bleed down the AC system and disconnect the lines. Swapped out many engines back in my mechanic days. AC systems in the way were always a pain. |
That is what I forgot!
I have seen a few with the A/C hanging in an empty engine bay. |
The torque convert bolts can be accessed through the starter opening.
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When I removed my engine (out the bottom) I removed the radiator, unbolted the AC compressor without disconnecting any AC lines, and used bungees to hold it out of the way where the radiator was.
Also, note (take pictures) of all wiring harness routing as there are several places where the wiring snakes through and around components. I disconnected the wires from all points on the engine and left the harness on the car. The wiring disconnect and connect was actually the most time consuming part of pulling and reinstalling the engine. I was considering pulling my engine out the top. The only youtube video I found of an HHR engine going out the top was useless. They filmed it with the camera pointing at the front of the HHR about 3 feet off the ground. No video or pics inside the engine compartment. Just an engine being lowered into the car and a buch of guys leaning over the car working in the engine compartment. If you are leaving the trans on the car, you will probably have to angle the engine/trans enough to be able to pull the engine away from the trans without hitting the strut tower. Steve |
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Got the crank bolt off.. I had to use heat on it..
The non discharged AC is roped forward into or close by loosened radiators that are leaning forwardly.. Tell me what to do about the torque converter bolts - need to be removed? By the way do I have to line up the ring gear or can the block just be put in place as it goes.... I have the starter out and on the new block.. Ive labeled all connections.. Got 2 hard to reach bolts left to unscrew.- under t-stat manifold.. |
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