Cat Man HHR

The connector is two wire correct?
If so use you multimeter set on DC volts and connect it to the two terminals on the connect. What voltage do you have with the ignition on and when the car is running?
You would think if you turned the key on with the solenoid plugged in and heard a click you would have enough available voltage to make it work.
The code to me means showing an open or short to the solenoid detected by the ECM.
Here's a how to:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...acement-44780/
Here's a video for a GMC but it's gives ways to test for current.

donbrew

In #6 I said one side is always hot, the ECM supplies GROUND.

The code monitors the circuit; open, short etc. Could be a wire, a connector or the windings in the solenoid.

HHRnovice

Thanks for the link and video. After watching that video it seems that the way I tested the harness wire was the right way. I tested it with the key on and off but found no current. I didn't test it with the engine running but I will.

If there is no current in the harness then I need to find out why not. As donbrew said it is either an open circuit, connector or the winding but if the solenoid clicks I would think the winding is good, right?

I have heard that the ECM driver or fuse could also be the culprit.

Does anyone know the safest way to test the wire harness for continuity without damaging the ECM?

Cat Man HHR

OK you almost there. No current at the plug means a broken wire (supply or ground) that's 12 volt or ground.
If you test either terminal of the plug for voltage do you have it ? Take your test light and check each one, not like in the video. Test light on one terminal and test light to ground.
The other pin is ground thru the ECM, that will be a common. Because a ground is a ground.
Using a Volt Ohm meter could help you also.
Continuity will not hurt anything if you want to trace one end of a wire when it's disconnect from both ends of the wire.

HHRnovice

With the key on / engine off I tested the red/white wire terminal of the solenoid connector with a test light. There was no current so I tested fuse #64 (for canister vent) with the key on / engine off. Both sides of the fuse had current. Then I probed the red/white wire at the UBEC and there is current there too. So I believe that indicates the red/white wire for power is open.

I have not tested the white wire with the test light because I've found from other research that applying voltage to that wire may damage the ECM. Do you know if this correct? I need to test the white wire too but don't want to do any damage doing so.

donbrew

Why are you testing with engine off? How would using a test light apply power to anything? The ECM supplies GROUND to the solenoid.

HHRnovice

I tested with the engine off because I was led to believe from other information I found that it could cause damage to the ECM. I suppose that may be incorrect.

I made a mistake about the test light voltage. I know it can't supply power. What I meant to say is that the bulb 'could' draw current that might damage the ECM. This too might be erroneous information I found.

Thanks for the diagram.

donbrew

On the connector pin A should be always hot. Pin B is GROUND when the ECM commands, otherwise 0.

Test would be: Test light to pin A and chassis. and monitor Pin B test light connected to A & B watch it go on and off while engine on. Or test for continuity from the plug to the ECM engine off harness disconnected from ECM.

What "they" mean is don't test for continuity when the ECM is connected. It wouldn't tell you anything anyway.

HHRnovice

I was about to test the connector today using a better light than I used before. I noticed the wire I thought was red/white was more like purple and had no white at all. The other wire was white. Could the red/white have faded to purple and no white at all?

donbrew

Was it 12V +? How about a visual inspection if the wire?

Why not just go to AutoZone and buy a new solenoid, $34.00 or ebay $23.00